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Sep 19, 2017
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Posts Tagged ‘Das Bevo’

Short List: St. Louis’ top 3 house pretzels

Friday, September 8th, 2017

Is there anything better equipped to satiate hunger and simultaneously increase thirst than the pub pretzel? I haven’t found it. A bready, delicious heft of hot, salty carbs served with mustard and cheese for slathering, washed down with a cold pint, it’s the perfect feast. While the pretzel is decidedly German, it has taken on a life of its own in St. Louis. Here are three of the best house-made pretzels this side of the Rhine. 

 

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1. Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern 2101 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.4677, charlevillebeer.com

The pretzel at Charleville is made with spent grain – that’s the grain left over from the beer-brewing process – and comes out with a glowing, blond hue. The top is salted and slathered in butter, which pools at the bottom of the plate and soaks the base of the crust that’s dredged in leftover grain. The dough is heady with a hint of nuttiness in the aftertaste, and when you pull it apart, it doesn’t tear – it shreds. The rosemary whole-grain mustard offers an initial hint of sweetness, but it is spicy enough to singe your nose hair. Order with a pint of house Half Wit Wheat for the perfect pairing.

 

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2. Das Bevo 4749 Gravois Ave, St. Louis, 314.396.6900, dasbevo.com

Recently opened in Bevo Mill, Das Bevo is already making headway with its pretzel game, relying on the skills of Anne Cronin (the pretzel maker who also sells her goods at the Arnold Farmers Market). These beauties come German-style, two by two, with a hot, crunchy crust that bounces back if you give it a pinch. The extra heap of salt on top means you’ll need nothing less than a pitcher of Griesedieck to accompany them. Enjoy with both house-made grain mustard and beer pub cheese sauce on the side.

 

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3. Union Loafers Café & Bread Bakery 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com

The pretzels at this first-rate bakery have a rustic personality. They are handmade daily in the classic knot shape (with a gentle twist at the top) and finished with a lovely scatter of big, square Maldon salt flakes. Less buttery than some, these Bavarian-style beauties take a generous lye bath for a dark color and a thick, chewy crust. The house-made grain mustard served with it is exceptional, but unnecessary since the flavor of the dough unravels in your mouth as soon as you take a bite.

Photos by Izaiah Johnson

Kevin Korinek is a freelance writer and photographer with a passion for making homemade pie.

Hit List: 4 new places to try in June

Thursday, June 1st, 2017

The Sloppy Joe Joe, named for co-owner Wendy Hamilton’s brother, is served open-faced and doused in beer cheese sauce on spent-grain sourdough.

 

1. Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern 2101 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.4677, charlevillebeer.com

What happens when you combine a Ste. Genevieve brewhouse with a city-savvy restaurant group? Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern. The newest partnership between the 14-year-old brewery and Hamilton Hospitality (of Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Vin de Set, et al.) offers a relaxed eatery with a backyard cookout vibe. Choose from 14 Charleville brews on tap like the Long White Cloud, a New Zealand-style Pilsner, or the Rye by Night, a black rye IPA collaboration with Heavy Riff Brewing Co., and peruse an extensive menu of bar snacks and creative takes on comforting classics. Don’t miss the Sloppy Joe Joe, a meaty, cheesy mess served open-faced on spent-grain sourdough that requires a knife and fork, or the house-smoked pastrami sandwich cut thick and generously portioned. Share a pile of South City Fried Chicken Livers with all the smooth creaminess you want (and none of the gaminess you fear). If you’ve managed to save room for dessert, order the classic diner-style apple pie domed with a cinnamon-sugar crumb crust and served a la mode with house-made vanilla ice cream.

 

2. Das Bevo 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.396.6900, dasbevo.com

Bevo Mill has a new lease on life as Das Bevo. The rejuvenated South City landmark now houses an event space and a modern day Bierhall with a compact, pub-style menu with a German-American accent. The kraut balls – deep-fried spheres of sauerkraut and bratwurst with a side of tangy beer cheese mustard – make a fine accompaniment to a frosty stein of lager. Bigger plates include burgers, sandwiches, sausage boards and specialties like the pork schnitzel, pounded thin, fried and served open-faced on a slice of grilled rye bread and augmented with a bacon and bratwurst gravy and carrot-kraut slaw. Prost!

 
A 20-inch cheese pizza is available whole or by the slice.

 

3. Pizza Head 3196 S. Grand Ave., St. Louis, 314.266.5400, pizzaheadstl.com

Pizza Head is simple: enormous New York-style pies consumed to the tunes of classic punk. The chewy, thin crust – just sturdy enough to support massive slices – is topped with classic red sauce and cheese, creamy white pizza accouterments or vegan “cheese,” then piled high from a list of vegetarian toppings. It’s an edgy, less refined departure for chef-owner Scott Sandler, best known for his meticulous Neapolitan-style pies at Pizzeoli. With just one salad and a handful of drinks, Pizza Head’s barebones menu is focused on specials. Grab some friends and get a 20-inch cheese pizza and four 16-ounce Stags for $25, or dine solo with two cheese slices and a domestic pint for $8.

 

4. Humble Pie 9783 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.997.7070, eatthehumblepie.com

The team at Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium has stepped into the pizza game at Humble Pie. Start with fresh, green-tasting pesto chicken salad served atop crisp romaine before digging into your pizza. You can’t go wrong with a classic like pepperoni on super-thin crust, but we also love The Lily Pad pizza on the crispy, focaccia-like Sicilian crust. It comes with herbed ricotta sauce topped with leeks, caramelized onion, portobellos, sausage and a drizzle of truffle oil. And don’t forget dessert – the Gimme S’more pie is filled with a crazy rich, dense hazelnut-chocolate ganache and topped with marshmallow fluff. There’s no reason Humble Pie should be so modest.

Photos by Michelle Volansky

Related Content
• Sauce Magazine: June 2017

First Look: Pizza Head on South Grand

First Look: Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern in Lafayette Square

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