In our February issue, we offer a foursome of hot drinks to warm your insides against the cold of winter. This weekend, we suggest one more heated elixir – not just because it’s tasty and original but because the bartending performance is a darned good show – perfect on a weekend when social plans are made around the big show known as the Super Bowl.

Some viewers actually get excited for the football, others could care less about the game and only make mad dashes for the living room to pass judgment on multi-million dollar car, insurance or beer commercials. Others just want to see if Beyoncé will live up to the halftime hype. Since game day will be crazy, find a bit of calm beforehand with a wholly different sort of show at Sanctuaria.

The prescription: Sit at the bar and order Calmer Than You Are. The drink is a toddy – a rum toddy as opposed to the more typical whiskey or brandy-based hot toddy. It is essential that you be perched bar-side because this one is “a big production,” in the words of Sanctuaria assistant bar manager Tim Rabior. Prep for this complicated drink takes about five minutes, complete with entertaining flair.

Watch closely. Your bartender will grab a glass mug, fill it with hot water and set it aside to warm. Next, he’ll combine rum, hot water, cinnamon syrup, apple juice and lime juice in a Boston shaker. Out comes the torch and fire encircles the metal tin. Now observe as the fluid is poured into a small teapot where it stays piping hot. The hot water that was in the now-heated mug gets dumped and in goes enough Green Chartreuse to coat the glass. Prepare for a second fire show: A sprig of fresh rosemary is ignited in the liquor.



And now the toddy concoction enters, poured from an elevated height into the mug. Ooh! Sip. Now relax; the Super Bowl isn’t until Sunday.

— photos by Michelle Volanksky

Dolcetto has frequently been called the “Beaujolais of Italy,” which has bothered me for years, because it’s totally inaccurate and unfair to France’s Beaujolais. Here are three exciting and dramatically different views of this beautiful red grape.

Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba, 2010, Piedmont, Italy At first sip, this wine seemed unusual for a Dolcetto, a typically easy and fruity grape. But what initially appeared to be “way too big” turned out to be a lengthy and powerful version of this shy variety. This large and voluptuous style was amazing for its intensity at around $20.

Palmina Dolcetto, 2010, Santa Barbara County, Calif. As a Santa Barbara Dolcetto virgin, my anticipation was a solid Missouri “Show Me!” After swirling and sniffing, the lusciously round and soft tannins were captivating. There was even a very vague sense of wood – unusual if a Dolcetto is from Italy, but who knows what an American Dolcetto should be? Different from its Old World cousins, this great wine was delicious $20 yumminess with a half-minute finish.

Pio Cesare Dolcetto d’Alba 2011, Piedmont, Italy Then Pio came to play. While ordering multiple courses at Charlie Gitto’s in Chesterfield, my guess that this would be “just right” with pasta, salad, chicken and pizza was confirmed. I’m not claiming that this $25 red is the perfect wine for all food, but it was for one night.

We appreciate history in this fair city of ours, including storied restaurants. A place like Cafe Balaban held attraction for years as a see and be seen spot in the Central West End. While the sign on the doors at 405 N. Euclid Ave., now bears the name of a different crowd pleaser, Herbie’s Vintage 72, Steve McIntyre and Brian Underwood gave our old favorite life again when they opened Balaban’s Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar in Chesterfield in 2009.

Now, with a recently completed expansion, which includes a new private event space and an intimate wine room (pictured above) that doubles as the treasure-trove for Balaban’s Library Wines (special bottles from the original Cafe Balaban cellar), McIntyre and Underwood are giving wine lovers more reasons to pass through the doors of their wine shop and restaurant at 1772 Clarkson Road. Need an excuse to grab a glass at Balaban’s this weekend? Here are three:

1. Complimentary tastings. Balaban’s consistently earns a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for its cellar selections. Every Saturday from 1 to 3 p.m., you can sample fine wines for free and become wine savvy by chatting up the knowledgeable staff.

2. Wine dinners done right. When it comes to wine dinners, Balaban’s puts on a great show. This Sunday marks the restaurant’s popular Siduri Wine Dinner and will feature winemaker Adam Lee, who produces single vineyard Pinot Noir from 20 vineyards, which stretch from Santa Barbara, Calif., to the Willamette Valley in Oregon. The five-course dinner, held in the gracious new event space (pictured above), should be a feast for all your senses. To make a reservation for the $85 (plus tax and gratuity) affair, call 636.449.6700.

3. The wine club. Priced at $35 a month, the Balaban’s Wine Club is a darn good deal. On the first Wednesday of each month, you’ll not only grab your two bottles (along with tasting notes), but you can stick around to sample additional wines, nosh on appetizers and mingle with other members. It’s a happy hour dubbed the Pick-up Party, and it alone is a reason to join. Plus, if you like what Balaban’s retail wine manager and wine club director Scott Krietemeyer (pictured) is pouring that evening, you can take home a bottle at a discounted price.

— photos by Michelle Volanksy

The notion of stocking up on beverages usually pertains to soda, beer and wine, but every since I’ve become acquainted with Tomr’s Handcrafted Tonic Syrup Concentrate, I’m bent on acquiring as much of this mixer as possible. Why am I compelled to hoard? This small-batch cocktail accessory lends a tasty touch of woodsy tonic flavor to every spirit it touches, just like the formula prescribed on the back label: “1 ounce of tonic syrup, 2 ounces of a spirit, 3 ounces of club soda.” Every highball – not just a G&T – has been fabulous, with both white and dark-colored spirits.

Tomr’s Tonic is made with all-natural, organic ingredients, including bark from the cinchona tree – the original source of quinine and what gives tonic water its dry, bitter flavor. You can snatch up this newbie to St. Louie at The Wine Merchant where a 200-milliliter bottle is sold for $9. This apothecary-esque elixir is just now making its way into area bars, but you can find it being used at The Fortune Teller Bar, where it shares space in the glass with Bombay Sapphire Gin and soda water in a drink dubbed The Raj.

There are very few instances where a gal will let you get away with calling her a fast woman. But when you’re competing for the title of Miss Speed Rack St. Louis, to be labeled “fast” is a compliment.

Speed Rack is an all-female bartending competition that puts the speed and accuracy of lady bartenders to the test. The coast-to-coast competition was founded in 2011 by Ivy Mix (pictured below, left) and Lynnette Marrero (pictured below, right) as a way to showcase the talents of women in the beverage industry and to raise funds for breast cancer education, prevention and research. Mix and Marrero are among the nation’s leading female mixologists. Mix works at Brooklyn’s Clover Club and is the brand ambassador for Brooklyn Gin, while Marrero is the president of the New York chapter of Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails (LUPEC), an organization that promotes women bartenders while raising funds for women’s-based charities.

“It started primarily to create a platform for ladies,” Mix explained about the inspiration for Speed Rack. “But then there’s this whole charity aspect. I am a believer that people will always drink. Why not have that money go toward a cause? I don’t know anybody that [breast cancer] hasn’t affected someway, somehow.”

This Sunday, Speed Rack comes to St. Louis, one of 10 cities of the 2012-2013 season. The season will then culminate in a championship round in New York City in May. Contestants are required to make a round of cocktails, culled from a list of 50 accepted industry standard recipes. Judges will rate each drink based on preparation time and accuracy. Among the judging panel will sit acclaimed industry leaders such as Bridget Albert, director of spirits for Southern Wine & Spirits; Doug Frost, master sommelier, master of wine and co-founder of Beverage Alcohol Resource; and Charles Joly, beverage director at the Chicago based cocktail bar The Aviary.

Mix stated that St. Louis was selected as a stop on the circuit because of industry buzz that the drink scene in the Gateway City is “alive, fresh and new.” Marrero added, “St. Louis is one of the cities we’re most excited to come see. There’s so much talked about it.”

The St. Louis competition will shine a spotlight on numerous local female bartenders who are regularly mentioned for their ability to craft a high-quality cocktail, including: Heather Selsor of Taste, Jayne Pellegrino of Blood & Sand (featured in Sauce’s 2013 One’s to Watch list), Jamie Kilgore of Cielo at The Four Seasons, and Brooksey Cardwell and Mel James, both of BC’s Kitchen. While a total of 10 local bartenders are participating, competitors hail from as far away as Kansas City.

The event, which is open to those 21 and older, will take place this Sunday from 2 to 6 p.m. at the Cherokee Performing Arts Center located at 2720 Cherokee St. Tickets are $20 (plus a handling fee) when purchased in advance online or $25 at the door, where both credit cards and cash will be accepted.

Big days lie ahead. No, we’re not talking New Year’s Eve or even New Year’s Day. We’re talking about non-stop college football. It’s the time of year to plant your butt on a chair and zone out to first and 10, fourth and long, and crazed, shirtless young males wearing body paint.

Thus, we bring you a guide to the college bowls. You won’t find picks predicting the winning team. Instead, you’ll find picks that make you a winner when it comes to what you drink during the game. It’s football, so it’s all beer, all the time. But which one? For that, we turned to Sean Conroy, co-owner of International Tap House. His watering holes in Soulard and Chesterfield each offer 40 beers on tap along with about 480 bottled beers from around the globe. Conroy offered his picks (and commentary, because what is sports without commentary?) for the beer to order when you watch the big bowl games at iTAP. He’s only taking you through to New Year’s Day. After that, it’s time to get off that couch.

Russell Athletic Bowl, Friday, Dec. 28., 4:30 p.m. CST
Rutgers vs. Virginia Tech
Four Hands Reprise Red. This beer is a nice shade of Rutgers Scarlet.

Bell Helicopter Armed Forces Bowl, Saturday, Dec. 29, 10:45 a.m. CST
Rice vs. Air Force
New Belgium Shift. Only in a can, it is a pale lager and it sports Air Force colors.

New Era Pinstripe Bowl, Saturday, Dec. 29, 2:15 CST
West Virginia vs. Syracuse
Southern Tier Choklat. Although it is brown in color, Southern Tier from Western New York really bleeds Orange.

Valero Alamo Bowl, Saturday, Dec. 29, 5:45 p.m. CST
Texas vs. Oregon State
Rogue Dead Guy. The liveliest beer to consume if you are backing the Beavers.

Buffalo Wild Wings Bowl, Saturday, Dec. 29, 9:15 p.m. CST
TCU vs. Michigan State
Bells Two Hearted Ale. Hands down. Period.

Hyundai Sun Bowl, Monday, Dec. 31, 1:00 p.m. CST
USC vs. Georgia Tech
Stone Arrogant Bastard. The brand prides itself on being cocky. This pairing works best with Trojan Football.

AutoZone Liberty Bowl, Monday, Dec. 31, 2:30 p.m. CST
Iowa State vs. Tulsa
If you don’t support either of the natural disasters (Cyclones vs. The Golden Hurricanes) then just back a beer based three hours in distance between the two campuses which boasts the total points of a touchdown: Boulevard’s Tank 7.

Chick-fil-A Bowl, Monday, Dec. 31, 6:30 p.m. CST
LSU vs. Clemson
Abita’s Purple Haze. No doubt many of the tailgaters in Baton Rouge drink this not only because it supports its home team color, but its brewery is also only an hour away.

Rose Bowl, Tuesday, Jan. 1, 4:00 p.m. CST
Wisconsin vs. Stanford
Don’t leave the bar without having a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale as you support the Stanford Cardinal.

Discover Orange Bowl, Tuesday, Jan. 1, 7:30 p.m. CST,
Northern Illinois vs. Florida State
Drink a goose while rooting for the Huskies? You bet. Goose Island IPA.

The holidays are great, but let’s face it: ’Tis the season for stress-induced drinking. How best to take the edge off this holiday season? We went to wine experts Lauren Blake of Robust Wine Bar and her fiancé, Daniels Parseliti of Little Country Gentleman, to find out how they drink their way through the most spirited time of the year.

To balance Mom’s dried-out turkey

LB: Terres Dorées by Jean-Paul Brun. I shouldn’t make a blanket statement like, “Anyone who poo-poos Beaujolais is excluding themselves from an endless and inexpensive supply of truly stunning wine,” but I just did. With big, juicy red fruit and notes of earth and spice, your turkey will thank you.

DP: Weingut-Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett. The palate is explosive, with copious stone fruit, green apple and torrents of mineral. At 8.5-percent alcohol, it drastically postpones the “Mom, I’ll never forgive you for X” arguments/breakdowns.

To get you through the company holiday party and still have a job on Monday

LB: Look no further than Becker Estate Pinot Noir, which clocks in at 12.5-percent ABV. It doesn’t cry out for food, but it pairs well with just about anything – from caviar to cocktail franks.

To drown out Grandma’s voice as you light the menorah

LB: Capcanes La Flor del Flor de Primavera. This is the only choice for either of us when it comes to kosher wines.

DP: A bottle of kosher slivovitz (plum brandy). I used to drink shots of it at the bar of a Czech restaurant in Astoria, Queens, while sitting next to pro hockey players with old school mullets (not hipster-fashion mullets). If the alcohol doesn’t drown out Grandma, the burning will.

To drink your way through Christmas DAY

DP: Cerdon Renardat-Fâche Bugey offers just a touch of sweetness, just a kiss of tannin, just a bit of bubble. It goes with almost anything, has moderate alcohol and you never want to stop drinking it.

To go with that Christmas ham

LB: A Christmas ham is the perfect medium to understand what riesling is truly capable of. The hint of residual sugar on the front of the palate, followed in cadence by laser-like acid are the ideal accessories for the fat and salt of a perfectly prepared piggy. I’d go with a Spätlese or an Auslese by JJ Prüm from 2005.

To make your in-laws actually like you

LB: Nothing screams taste like showing up with a 15-year-old Barolo. By bringing a more mature wine, you’re giving your in-laws the option to pop the bottle now or lay it down for a while. The first wine Dan ever shared with me, while I was vacationing in St. Louis with no plans of moving, was a 1996 Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barolo. Our wedding date is April 27. The Barolo worked.

To stuff Terrible Uncle Harry’s stocking

LB: A Poloroid of Dan and I drinking Romanée-Conti La Tâche, flipping that mother-**cker the bird.

DP: A bottle of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau that’s been sitting on my radiator for the last five years. Like a mouthful of rusty nails soaked in white vinegar.

To make your makeshift New Year’s plans a little more festive

LN: Château Bonnet Blanc from Entre-Deux-Mers. It’s cheap and chug-able. At a restaurant in Aspen where I worked, this was our go-to, no-glass-necessary wine.

DP: What a depressing holiday. But at least there’s Larmandier-Bernier Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée. This force of nature is like a fire hose blast of liquefied rocks in your face. Way, way better than jumping off that bridge into the rocky river below. Or a PBR in my left hand, a bottle of Springbank 10-year-old Scotch in my right.

With large format beers* becoming rapidly more available, it can be just as fun to bring a great ale or lager to a holiday party as it is wine. Beer, with its diverse ingredients, flavors and styles, is easy to pair with almost any dish. Headed to a cocktail party? Look for styles that are either approachable, or bold and flavorful and lend best to slow sipping. For dinner parties, look to pair beers with the meal in a supplementary way (a chocolate stout with a flourless chocolate cake), or in a complimentary way (a chocolate stout with a raspberry tart and ice cream). No matter the occasion, here are a few big bottles that are sure to make the holidays a bit more festive.

Firestone Double Jack The look of this beer is clear gold. A white head opens up the smell of peaches, spring flowers and honey. The higher alcohol of this double IPA lightens the mouth feel of the rich, almost English malt backbone that tries to fight off the huge hoppiness of this West Coast-style ale.

Substitute this bottle for a pre-meal cocktail.

Brasserie Dupont Bière de Miel A beautiful Belgian ale, this honey beer has a cloudy, marigold color and a foam cap. Barnyard funk backed by a wild orange blossom honey note and a delicate pear undertone, this ale is soft, lively, inviting and unique. The honey adds depth and complexity.

Substitute this bottle for an oaked Chardonnay.

Unibroue Maudite Pale whisky in color, the eggshell head makes for a pretty beer. Lime, dried tropical fruits and fresh strawberry jam make for one great aroma. A balanced, medium body of light toffee and graham crackers is finished by a medicinal hoppiness and Belgian acidity.

Substitute this bottle for a pinot noir or Burgundy.

Stone Imperial Russian Stout Intimidating, big and bold in the glass, the mahogany head is rare for these big stouts. Mocha fudge brownies, morning coffee, oatmeal and black licorice hit your nose before the roasted espresso, black cherries and cocoa nibs wake up your tongue. The alcohol is present, but in the right amount. This is one of the best, non-barrel-aged stouts available.

Substitute this for an after-dinner whiskey. 

* Large format beers include any sold in a 22-ounce or larger bottle. While often referred to as bombers, a bomber is actually a U.S.-style that is 22 ounces. Most European and some American breweries are using Champagne- or Belgian-style bottles that tip the scale at 750 mL, or 25.4 ounces.

Ted Kilgore, arguably St. Louis’ most well-known bartender, is leaving his post as beverage director at Taste to open a cocktail bar in Lafayette Square called The Planter’s House.

Kilgore isn’t going solo in this new venture, which will be located in the building (pictured) at 1000 Mississippi Ave., at the corner of Chouteau and Mississippi Avenues. He’s teaming up with business partner Ted Charak, currently bar manager at Taste’s sister restaurant, Brasserie, in the Central West End. Charak joined the French bistro in the summer of 2010. Among the highlights of his 10 years in the bar biz is opening nationally recognized craft cocktail bar Teardrop Lounge in Portland, Ore., in 2006.

Since doors won’t open at The Planter’s House until mid-2013, Kilgore will remain behind the Taste bar for the next four to six months. “It just depends on how our project goes,” Kilgore said. After that, he will stay on board as a beverage consultant for Craft Restaurants, chef-owner Gerard Craft’s family of four eateries.

What will the next phase of Taste look like? “We aren’t going to lose any of Taste’s original concept,” said Taste GM Jack Noecker of the modern speakeasy that has received national aplomb. “There are a lot of people who have put a ton of work into learning, sometimes under the shadow of Ted. It’s an awesome opportunity for them.”

Taking over as bar manager will be Kyle Mathis, who has worked at Taste since February and has worked on and off at Craft’s various other restaurants since 2008. Other bartenders at Taste include: Mathis’ brother, Corey Mathis; Joel Burton; Heather Dodderer, who has worked at Taste since its infancy; and Diana Benante. (Kyle Mathis and Benante recently tied for the highest score among all examinees on the written portion of the Bar Smarts advanced course exam, a bartender education and certification program.)

Kilgore noted that he’s currently working with Mathis and Noecker so that they can “drive the ship in the same direction it’s been going. We don’t want it to change, just grow.”

Although Kilgore built the cocktail program from the ground up when Taste opened in fall 2009, recipe and menu development have become a collaborative effort, as is visible with the current menu. Kyle Mathis expects future menus to remain the product of “a team effort,” and reassured balance and great taste in all drinks. “Everyone knows Ted’s rules of mixology,” he said of the Taste bartending team.

Kilgore’s departure isn’t the only news on the beverage side for Craft Restaurants. Craft has hired Michael David Murphy as beverage director for all of his restaurants. “We’re developing a cocktail trending strategy to take the Taste mentality to Niche, Brasserie and Pastaria as well,” Craft explained. “With a formalized training process in place, we can continue to develop the cocktail and overall beverage programs for all of our restaurants.” Murphy, a certified sommelier who is currently studying for the Advanced Sommelier exam, has worked as GM at both Niche and Brasserie and managed the wine lists at both locations. He also spent time in Kansas City working for a wine distributor, during which time he served as president of the Kansas City chapter of the United States Bartenders’ Guild. “We’re trying to look at the group of restaurants and offer the same type of quality in beverages as the food,” explained Murphy. “To do that, you have to train and educate your staff.” Murphy is currently beverage director at Remy’s Kitchen and Wine Bar in Clayton and will officially take up his new post on January 1.

As for The Planter’s House, there’s still much to decide about this bar named after a famous turn-of-the-century St. Louis hotel. “I don’t want to pigeonhole anything,” responded Kilgore when asked about the design for the space – it will include the first floor and a large outdoor patio – and whether food will factor into the equation. Will his bartender wife Jamie Kilgore, who appears on this month’s cover of Sauce, spend time behind the stick at The Planter’s House? Another unknown. One thing Kilgore is certain about: “It’s going to be a great bar.”

— Photo by Greg Rannells

On the morning that I had scheduled a visit to Bar Les Frères, restaurateur Zoe Pidgeon’s new Frenchy place at 7637 Wydown Blvd., in Clayton, my teenage son gave my skirt, tights and heels the once-over. “Where are you going?” he asked, knowing that I care more about a sharpened pencil than a pencil skirt.

“Zoe’s new place,” I answered, which meant nothing to him. I revised, explaining that the woman behind I Fratellini and Bobo Noodle House had such an eye for design that she could ready a porta-potty for auction at Sotheby’s and then sell it for six figures. I showed up at Bar Les Frères at the appointed hour. Would you know it? Robinson was wearing a little black dress. It was 2 p.m.

You cannot outdo Pidgeon, but you can join her. And you should, especially when you yearn for a touch of elegance – be it in the glass, on the plate or within the portrait gallery-esque space that characterizes Pigeon’s petite bar and restaurant.

If you’re going to begin the evening at Bar Les Frères, do it with bubbles. The drink list – a collaboration between Pidgeon, general manager Michael Weber and bar manager Tommy Gray – includes five Champagne cocktails. Best bets: a French 75 (pictured, left) served with an orange twist (“That’s what makes the drink,” said Gray decidedly.) or the aromatic, highly effervescent St. Germaine Cocktail (pictured, right) made with elderflower liqueur, Champagne, club soda and garnished with a lemon twist. Pair either drink with an appetizer that’s equally light-tasting and classy: potato blinis with caviar and creme fraiche.

Bar Les Frères is about vintage, so you won’t find newly invented cocktails here. Instead, you’ll find yourself relishing the revival of the Pimm’s Cup, Dubonnet Cocktail or Tres Jolie (pictured, left). The latter, a minimalist, but highly tasty drink – dry vermouth, Dubonnet (a French aperitif made from red wine and flavored with quinine and bitter herbs) and Cointreau – may just be my new favorite oldie. Bar Les Frères, despite the diminutive square footage, is a full-service restaurant, so pair that Tres Jolie with a plate just as full-flavored, like the house-made Toulouse sausage with potato pancake and red cabbage.

Cap off the night with coffee? Pssh. Caffeine isn’t available at Bar Les Frères, so ask for the digestif menu. You’ll find liqueurs and cream-based cocktails that more than qualify as dessert. The Dumante Alexander (pictured right), with crème de cacao, pistachio liqueur and chocolate shavings, is decadent. The Grasshopper is a liquid version of Andes mints, the chocolate candy of the holiday season.

Lady friends, Bar Les Frères is the best reason of late to don the black dress and grab a drink. Guys, your attire doesn’t matter. Jeans? Fine. Just hold open the door. And please, let her order first.