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Sep 16, 2014
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Posts Tagged ‘Five Bistro’

Sneak Peek: Il Poggio

Wednesday, August 27th, 2014

Five Bistro chef-owner Anthony Devoti has bid farewell to the (mostly) vegetarian abundance of Root & Vine. Beginning tonight, Aug. 27, he’ll serve up hearty northern Italian fare at Il Poggio, his newest pop-up concept on the bar side of his restaurant at 5100 Daggett Ave., on The Hill.

Il Poggio, which means “the hill” in Italian, is the third of Devoti’s rotating concept restaurants since February. The first, Mon Petit Chou, celebrated French cuisine; Root & Vine focused on the bounty of spring and summer produce, much of it grown in Devoti’s garden at Five Bistro.

At Il Poggio, Devoti showcases house-made salumi, including house-made mortadella studded with crunchy pistachios, and handmade pastas like butternut squash ravioli and gnocchi. The seven-course prix-fixe meal begins with an amuse of house-smoked salmon with a swath of creamy dill sauce, red onion and garden cucumbers. From there, standout dishes include simple, yet intensely flavorful eggplant Parmesan; paper-thin, jewel-like slices of beef carpaccio with pickled vegetables; and a rich, flavorful, pork trotter ragú.

Wine pairings are available for an additional $30 and reflect the many varieties of Northern Italy, from a delightfully tangy, young orange pinot grigio to a robust, Burgundy-like pinot nero.

The Il Poggio menu is available Wednesdays through Saturdays, and reservations are encouraged. Devoti expects Il Poggio to run through October with slight menu changes to accommodate seasonal produce. Here’s a look at what to expect:

 

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Hit List: 6 new places to try this month

Sunday, July 6th, 2014

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Jilly’s Ice Cream Bar: 8509 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.993.5455, jillysicecreambar.com

Located just steps from its sister establishment Jilly’s Cupcake Bar & Café, this chef-driven ice cream bar offers 19 ice cream flavors divided into classics, cupcake inspirations and monthly chef creations. Our pick is the Ka-Boomm (pictured), chock-full of brownie bits, Oreo chunks and M&Ms. Enjoy it in a Jilly’s cupcake waffle cone or a two-scoop side-by-side cake cone. Feeling indulgent? Build your own sundae or go with a signature one like Lemonberry: Bee Sting ice cream, blueberry compote, morsels of streusel crunch, whipped cream, a cherry and a wee sugar bee.

 

Root & Vine: 5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com

Anthony Devoti’s latest rotating restaurant concept inside his Five Bistro focuses on produce, much of it grown in Five’s garden. The almost-vegetarian, six-course prix-fixe begins with a deviled duck egg placed atop a leaf of bok choy kimchee. Other highlights include a panna cotta of creamed turnips served with smoked trout and a gnocchi dish that celebrates spring onions. But don’t wait too long, veg-heads; we can’t guarantee Root & Vine will last past July.

 

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Death in the Afternoon: 808 Chestnut St., St. Louis, 314.621.3236, deathintheafternoonstl.com

The much-anticipated lunch spot in Citygarden from Blood & Sand’s Adam Frager and T.J. Vytlacil is open. But adjust your expectations, aficionados: Unlike its members-only sister restaurant-lounge, Death in the Afternoon is open to the public, doesn’t serve dinner and doesn’t have a cocktail menu. What you will find is a gorgeous gardenside patio and a lunchtime bill of snacks, soups, sandwiches and salads. We enjoyed the grilled pita with an eggplant dip (pictured) redolent with Asian flavors, as well as crispy falafel that shares space with garden-fresh veggies and tzatziki in a warm pita. For a more Westernized option, try the burger with Calabrian chile aioli. Pair it with a beer brewed on-site by new Upper 90 Brewing Co.

 

Que Sazon: 314.775.7714, quesazontruck.com

Que Sazon finds its niche in the food truck scene with authentic, flavorful South American cuisine. Expect a rotation of empanadas, their smaller cousin the empanadilla, and arepas – handheld cornmeal discs split and stuffed with meat, beans, cheese or vegetables. Keep an eye out for the arepas de pernil, filled with slow-roasted pork and a house-made mango barbecue sauce, or the pollo and mango arepa of tender chicken studded with bright bits of avocado and mango. Light, flaky empanadas hold surprising flavor combinations – like the Che, filled with ground beef, hard-boiled egg and briny green olives served with chimichurri mayo on the side. Wash this down with a glass of refreshing maracuya, a sweet-sour passion fruit juice.

 

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A Pizza Story: 7278 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0011, apizzastory.com

A Pizza Story’s pizzaiolo and co-owner Muhammad Alhawagri spent months perfecting a dough recipe that serves as the foundation for 12-inch Neopolitan-style pies like Fantasy (burrata, prosciutto and arugula), Mystery (a pairing of meaty mushrooms and red peppers) and Space Opera (smoked salmon, capers and fresh dill atop a swath of ricotta, pictured), all baked in a wood-burning oven. A slight twist on the dough recipe makes for a fine house bread, seasoned with rosemary and sea salt. If the limoncello gelato is available during your visit, order it.

 

Shack Restaurant: 13645 Big Bend Road, Suite 105, Valley Park, 636.529.1600, shackstl.com

Shack Restaurant recently relocated to Valley Park and added breakfast to the menu. The Nutty Monkey smoothie, a mix of crunchy granola and banana, is a great way to ease your hunger pangs before the real food arrives. Order The Kitchen Sink from the Skillets section and load up on ham, bacon, sausage, veggies, white cheddar, hash browns and eggs. Craving sweet? The Wild Berries buttermilk pancakes are crowned with a scrumptious berry compote and a generous spoonful of creme fraiche. Best of all was the breakfast pizza, which changes frequently. Ours held a richly satisfying version of creamed spinach, pork belly and eggs – but atop that sweet yeasty dough, anything would be delicious.

The Scoop: Five Bistro’s Anthony Devoti to launch rotating concept restaurant

Thursday, January 16th, 2014

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A bit of construction is underway at Five Bistro that will lead to big changes in the bar area of The Hill restaurant. Chef-owner Anthony Devoti recently shared his plans to add a small, rotating concept restaurant within Five Bistro. He hopes to launch the first concept in mid-February, just after Valentine’s Day.

The main dining room will continue to serve Five Bistro’s regular menu of seasonal offerings, but the bar area will be divided by a newly installed wall to create a more intimate, 600-square-foot space where Devoti will serve a unique five-course menu to 20 diners. The theme of the menu will rotate every 8 to 10 weeks, allowing him to introduce four or five concepts during the course of a year, similar to Grant Achatz’s restaurant Next in Chicago.

“It is like opening a new restaurant without leaving the building, and getting to utilize some of the concepts and ideas that we have without having to get up and go hunt down a landlord,” he said.

The first concept will be a French bistro theme called Mon Petit Chou. That menu could include offerings like a frisee salad with lardons and deviled eggs, fluke in buerre blanc and chocolate bouchons, Devoti said. Subsequent themes might include upscale American-Italian fare or an all-vegetarian menu.

When Mon Petit Chou launches, its menu will be offered Wednesdays through Saturdays, with two, reservations-only seatings. The menu will be priced around $45 and will include dishes prepared with seasonal produce from Five Bistro’s garden and local purveyors.

-photo by Greg Rannells

 

January 2014 Trendwatch: Part 2

Wednesday, January 8th, 2014

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{Beignets with espresso cream at Three Sixty}

Breakfast for Dessert
The dessert pairing of the moment is an after-church specialty: coffee and doughnuts. Element has cleared the menu of coffee creme brulee with doughnuts for dessert, but you can still find caffeinated sweet treats elsewhere. Order beignets stuffed with espresso mascarpone and drizzled with coffee liqueur and warm chocolate sauce at Nico or bite into beignets with espresso cream at Three Sixty.

Neck-and-neck
Why go as far as Portland, Ore., to try the sausage-stuffed duck neck at St. Jack Restaurant when you can find funky neck dishes all around town? On a recent Butcher Block Wednesday at Eleven Eleven Mississippi, chef-GM Bob Colosimo broke down the bird – turkey, that is – and turned the neck into a heck of a turkey osso bucco. Meanwhile, lamb is running neck and neck with birds of a feather. At Taste, chef Matt Daughaday shakes up his mainstay, lamb neck sugo, by giving lamb neck a long hot braise in Moroccan flavors then serving it as a ragú over cavatelli. And over at Sidney Street Cafe, chef Kevin Nashan features a roasted lamb dish with a side of roasted lamb neck stuffed in pastry, fried and served with curry aioli.

PB&Js Grow Up
The quintessential sandwich of your childhood – a PB&J – is something you can never outgrow. And why would you, when unconventional adult versions improve on the original? In the crepe cake recently offered at Crêpes: Etc, muscat jelly and peanut butter mousse were spread between crepe layers. Iron Barley’s Ballistic Elvis sees strawberry preserves and chunky peanut butter, grilled bananas, American cheese and hot pepper flakes (add bacon if your arteries can handle it) slapped between two pieces of Texas toast and then grilled, making it the hottest PB&J you’ve ever eaten. The childhood delight makes for a fine ending to a meal at Five Bistro, where you can periodically find a brioche doughnut with jam, peanuts and pecans.

Snap, Crackle, Pop
Forget Rice Krispies. Get your snap, crackle, pop from cracklings – and not the pork variety. The Libertine was serving both beef and squid versions of these crunchy munchies. The kitchen brigade at Brasserie is still quacking up over its special of duck confit-stuffed eggs garnished with duck cracklings, and you can dive into scallop cracklings at Sidney Street Cafe when you order Scallops and Piggy Noodles.

 

 

 

In This Issue: A Chat with Bonnie and Joe Devoti

Tuesday, November 5th, 2013

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Bonnie and Joe Devoti win Best Parents Award. After raising two sons and working nearly 30 years – she at Southwestern Bell, he at Blue Cross – they came out of retirement to help their son, chef Anthony Devoti, turn his farm-to-table concept into a reality. Seven years later, Devoti’s mom and dad are still at Five Bistro, still smiling.

How did you get involved with Five?
B:
We visited Anthony in San Francisco where they were doing farm-to-table things. He said, “I want to come home and do this.” When he came home, we did a little bit of catering out of our home. It got to be really big, and we said, “We need to get this out of the house.”

Did you plan on helping out for so long?
J: We said, “We’ll give you a little help for about a year.”

You even moved closer to Five.
J: We were living in Chesterfield when he opened this place. We’d drive down and be there until 8 or 9 at night. We said, “This is insane.” So we moved to The Hill.
B: We saw that little man flying in front of Hampton Inn saying, “If you lived here, you’d be home.” We’d say, “Oh, my gosh, we would! And we gotta ride all the way to Chesterfield!”

What are your roles now?
B:
Joe and I clean the place.
J: We call it “volunteer work.”
B: If you go into a restaurant and the restroom is clean, it has a lot to say about what’s happening there. But our biggest role is meeting and knowing our customers.
J: We make rounds to the tables.

Has technology been a learning curve?
B: Now we have Open Table [reservation system].
J: But we were doing things manually. We’d be forwarding the restaurant’s phone to our cell phones.
B: So you’re walking through Dierbergs, and your phone rings and you have the reservation book in the purse. We didn’t want to miss a reservation.

Have the composed dishes at Five inspired you to cook fancy meals at home?
B:
Oh, yeah. We’ll take a picture and send it to him [Anthony] and say, “Do you need any help over there?”

 What were dinners like when your kids were growing up?
J: We were comfort food kind of people: meatloaf, stew, roasts, steaks, lots of chicken.
B: We would plan the meals, and one of the boys would start it so that when we got home at 6:30 or 7 p.m., we could sit down and eat. I’m really very proud that every night we ate dinner together.

Who’s cooking Thanksgiving dinner?
B: Anthony always makes the meat entree. I bring my mom’s dressing. It’s so good.

Who’s the cook at home?
J: We cook together – and we’re still married.

After being married almost 45 years, do you do everything together?
B: He just showed me this article in The Wall Street Journal. It said retirees should not spend so much time together. It hurt my feelings.

How much longer will you lend a hand at Five?
B: I don’t know if I’d ever want to pull away from here totally.
J: We’re not ancient, but it’s nice being around young people.

What’s the hardest thing about working with family?
J: To say, “This is your business partner, not your son.”
B: I’m Miss Sensitivity. These kids out here are my extended family. So if he [Anthony] gets gruff with them, it’s like “Don’t holler at your little sister.”

What’s the best thing about working with family?
B: We are so proud of him, I could just cry. The best thing for me: seeing your child be a success.

 -photo by Ashley Gieseking

 

Readers’ Choice 2013: Most Underrated Restaurant

Wednesday, July 24th, 2013

The 2013 Readers’ Choice results are in. You voted for your top places to eat, drink, shop and enjoy all things food in St. Louis. Winners ran the gamut from classics like Sidney Street Cafe and Pappy’s Smokehouse to up-and-comers like Sump Coffee and Sauce on the Side. Below, your pick for Most Underrated Restaurant, Five Bistro.

 

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The Claverach Farm Shoots at Five Bistro is more than just a salad, it’s everything we love about summer. A green tangle of radish, pea and sunflower shoots are slickened with a slightly sweet, mustardy vinaigrette with just the right amount of zing. An ever-changing rotation of seasonal produce (lately it’s been beets) is nestled on the greens, then crowned with a poached farm egg with a vibrant yolk the consistency of honey. There are a lot of things we love about this time of year, but food this fresh, vibrant and flavorful is our favorite.

- Photo by Greg Rannells

In This Issue: Trendwatch – A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now

Wednesday, July 17th, 2013

{The High Rise at Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood and Mike Shannon’s Grill}

 

Thank You for Smoking: Barbecue spots may be spreading like wildfire around these parts, but it’s the smoke in our glasses that really has us talking. After a cold-smoke infusion of the bartenders’ wood chips of choice, the liquor becomes a sort of paintbrush, casting its smoky stroke on everything it touches. Dive right in with the smoked-vermouth-laden High on the Hog at Hendricks BBQ or the cold-smoked aperol at Cielo. For a milder entry to this smoker-to-sipper trend, try the High Rise at Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood and Mike Shannon’s Grill, where a flicker of smoke deepens as the cold-smoked ice melts.

Less Is More: When Niche opened the doors to its new Clayton home with a tasting menu-only format, the shift was met with both excitement and frustration. But the renowned fine-dining restaurant isn’t the only one testing the local waters with limited options. Diners at nearby Little Country Gentleman must opt for either the 3-course menu or the grand tasting menu (The latter, numbering around 16 courses, has dropped in price to $78 a head.), while Anthony Devoti is offering a 5-course taster at Five Bistro on The Hill. Will we see more fine-dining spots move in this direction? Considering the creative license such a pared-down approach lends the chef, we sure hope so.

Head, Shoulders, Ears and Toes: You’ve had pig’s face and feet, butt and belly. The latest body part to benefit from the nose-to-tail trend: pig’s ears. We had ‘em deep-fried as a rich counter to hearty kale in a sprightly salad this spring at pop-up restaurant A Good Man Is Hard to Find, and we’ve sliced into the naturally chewy meat rendered silken in a terrine at Farmhaus.

Ingredient Alert: Umami in a Bottle: Considering folks are aging just about everything these days and the fact that so many chefs covet fish sauce as their secret weapon, we should’ve seen this one coming. Sneak into the kitchens everywhere from Blood and Sand to the here-now-gone A Good Man is Hard to Find to newly opened The Libertine, and you’ll find a bottle of BLiS Barrel-Aged Fish Sauce. For this wax-sealed condiment, Red Boat Fish Sauce gets aged for seven months in bourbon barrels that have already worked their magic on BLiS maple syrup. The result: a rich sauce with slight sweetness and subtle smokiness that lets chefs infuse umami into just about anything.

White Out: When YellowTree Farm’s Justin Leszcz grows it, the chefs will come. The latest crop making its way onto menus? Japanese white sweet potatoes. Find them stuffed – along with house-made chorizo – into a taco at Mission Taco Joint or head to Mission’s sister restaurant Milagro Modern Mexican where chorizo and sweet potato are the filling for empanadas or turned into a tasty hash. At Farmhaus, the veggie is cozying up to house-smoked ham and scallops at Farmhaus, and embracing its Asian roots with curried rice at The Agrarian.

Riding the Third Wave: When Scott Carey first opened the doors to his third-wave coffee bar Sump Coffee, he wasn’t sure anyone would be willing to wait for his hand-brewed methods and precisely pulled espresso shots. Two years later, the South City spot is the watering hole of choice for the city’s coffee-loving cognoscenti. And with local coffee chain Kaldi’s launching a renewed focus on hand-brew techniques at all of its cafes, it’s easier than ever to get a taste of coffee’s third wave no matter where you live. Stop by Picasso’s Coffee House in St. Charles, Comet Coffee in Dogtown, VB Chocolate Bar in Cottleville and soon-to-open Rise Coffee House in The Grove for a hand-brewed cup.

Meals on Wheels: Why go to dinner at one restaurant when you can eat an appetizer at one, enjoy an entree at another, nibble dessert at the one next door and have a night cap just down the street? That’s the idea behind STL Culinary Tours, Dishcrawl and Savor Saint Louis, three new businesses offering food tours of our city’s most food-filled streets and neighborhoods, complete with behind-the-scenes tables, chats with the chef and strolls from one hot spot to the next.

–Photo by Jonathan Gayman

Trendwatch: A look at what’s on the plate, in the glass and atop our wish list right now

Thursday, April 25th, 2013


Thai Food Rising: Just as GQ’s Alan Richman named D.C.’s Northern Thai gem Little Serow the Most Outstanding Restaurant of 2013, our own little outlier from up North opened its doors. At Fork & Stix in The Loop, Southern Thai standbys like pad thai and coconut curry play second fiddle to Northern specialties like pork belly-boasting Hung Lay Curry, lemongrass-laden sausage Sai Oua and the fantastic creamy Khao Soi soup (pictured). Here’s to less stir-fries and more funk.

Gilding the Goat: We’ve long seen goat’s milk used for fresh cheese and get turned into slightly sour desserts. But now the meat of this horn-rimmed roamer is slipping onto menus as well. For a special aptly titled The Goat Rodeo, Guerrilla Street Food braised a goat leg in palm sugar and Filipino lager before shredding it over jasmine rice, and showering it with marinated Napa cabbage, Sriracha cream sauce and scallions. Sidney Street Cafe’s Kevin Nashan turned the tough, strongly flavored flesh into porchetta, while both The Rustic Goat and Five Star Burgers have experimented with grinding it into a rich take on a burger.

Wish List: New Jew Food: From whipped-lardo challah with bacon charoset at The Pass & Provisions in Houston to everything on the menu at Brooklyn’s Montreal-inspired Mile End Deli, classic Jewish deli fare is seeing an artisanal second coming. Could this trend grace STL tables? The gourmet Passover seder Anthony Devoti held at Five Bistro last month gives at least one lox-loving Jew hope.

Fired Up: The barbecue biz is on fire and newly opened Vernon’s BBQ, Hendricks BBQ, SugarFire Smoke House, Lampert’s BBQ, Wilson’s BBQ and Capitalist Pig have rib-lovers from St. Charles to Soulard licking their chops. The perk to opening in chilly temps? Pit masters can work out the kinks before kicking into high gear come prime barbecue season.

Eating Your Curds and Whey: Cheese curds – the semisolid portion of coagulated milk that gets separated from the liquid (whey) during cheese making – are the new finger food. At Five Star Burgers, you can nibble these mozzarella sticks-come-french fries with your burger, atop tomato soup or as a curly-cued bar snack. At Dressel’s Public House, you can dip ‘em into a smoked tomato sauce, and you can munch on Marcoot Creamery’s garlic-and-herb variety with a frothy brew at Perennial Artisan Ales.

Gateway Green: Now that kale has our palates singing the praises of bitter greens, look for mustard greens to make a play for its prominent place on menus. Wilted into goose sugo tagliatelle at Five Bistro, accompanying caramel-edged pork cheeks at Home Wine Kitchen, or sitting pretty beneath sous vide porchetta di testa at Vino Nadoz and rainbow trout at Harvest, these spicy, pungent leaves may even take us beyond new-wave Caesar salads.

The Night Shift: The bracingly bitter Italian liqueur Fernet-Branca isn’t new behind the bar, but it is gaining a broader customer base. At one of the best family of restaurants in town, Fernet appears to be the nightcap of choice for Gerard Craft’s crew.

— photo by Carmen Troesser

The Scoop: Red Guitar Bread to open brick-and-mortar bakery on Cherokee Street

Tuesday, April 17th, 2012

Baker Alex Carlson has wowed us since 2010, when we took our first bite of the divine baguettes, boules and buns that he made as the in-house baker at Five Bistro on The Hill. Soon, Carlson was supplying his artisanal breads to places like The Mud House, Big Sky Café, Salume Beddu and The Block. Last year, we saw Carlson become a vendor at the Webster Groves Farmers Market, making his old-world country loaves, focaccia and other Atkins diet-busters available for sale to the public. Now, word comes that Carlson’s company, Red Guitar Bread, will finally have a home to call its own.

The brick-and-mortar location for Red Guitar Bread will be at 3215 Cherokee St., a few blocks east of Gravois Avenue, as he announced on the company’s Facebook page and as reported by Byron Kerman for St. Louis Magazine.

The Scoop has been unable to reach Carlson to discuss details regarding the target opening date – or the latest wild yeast strains he’s using to transform his organic flour into hunky baked awesomeness. More as we learn it.

Drink This Weekend Edition: Five Bistro’s fab burger is no secret, but how ‘bout those cocktails?

Friday, November 25th, 2011

112311_peardrinkYou go to Five Bistro for a standout burger. You go to Five Bistro to sup from a menu crafted from 90-percent local ingredients. But cocktails? Five Bistro wasn’t on my typical suspects list for a well-crafted mixed drink – until now.

Bartender Mary Mangan came aboard Five this past March. Mangan has tended bar at Carmine’s, Lucas Park Grille and Herbie’s. Her training at the latter – by seasoned bartender Heather Dodderer (now at Taste) – shows in the quality selection of liquors, smart pairing of ingredients for original recipes, and blessed willingness to measure.

Classic drinks on Five’s 10-item cocktail menu include pre-Prohibition gin cocktail The Last Word, a Moscow Mule and a seasonal Bloody Mary. Mangan brings these oldies into the 21st century using products from boutique, small-batch distilleries like North Shore (No. 6 gin for the Last Word and its aquavit for the Moscow Mule) and Boyd & Blair (The distillery’s potato vodka, my personal vodka fave right now, is poured into Five’s Autumn Mary).

Among Mangan’s own creations, the winner was the Prickly Pear (pictured), which showcases Mangan’s ability to stick with chef-owner Anthony Devoti’s fresh-is-best and make-it-from-scratch philosophies. The drink is made with muddled pears, house-made ginger syrup, Ransom Old Tom Gin, Belle de Brillet Pear Liqueur, St. Germaine Elderflower Liqueur, fresh lemon juice and St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram. Pear, ginger and a touch of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg from the allspice dram keep the Prickly Pear bundled in winter flavors. Another of Mangan’s originals, The Muse, is an unexpected trio of New Holland The Poet Oatmeal Stout, locally produced Spirit of St. Louis Island Time Amber Rum and a tawny port by Portuguese maker Dow’s. This delicious beer cocktail is filled with chocolate and sweet cherry notes, but, as my husband cautioned, that ounce of rum and half-ounce of port added to the beer is “just gonna get you into trouble.” My response: “Stick with one and be done.”

Ah, but don’t leave without ordering one little edible: the fried deviled egg. This deep-fried delight is filled with a smooth mix of egg yolk, aïoli, crème fraîche, whole grain mustard, freshly grated horseradish, Sriracha and Spanish smoked paprika. It’s served on a bed of micro mustard greens with a dollop of tangy mustard-balsamic aïoli and a smidgeon of subtly citrus lemon-caper vinaigrette. You wont find it on Five’s menu but Devoti’s kitchen brigade will be happy to get this crazy-good creation down your gullet.

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