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Oct 17, 2017
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Posts Tagged ‘Heather Hughes’

Eat This: Vegetable Samosa at Everest Café & Bar

Thursday, October 12th, 2017

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If you haven’t tried the Vegetables Samosa at Everest Café & Bar, it’s time to check your priorities. Deep golden-brown pyramids of house-made pastry are filled with velvety smashed potatoes studded with peas and onion and fragrant with coriander. The crunchy, tender pockets are perfectly seasoned and delightful on their own, but the accompanying red tamarind sauce adds a sweet, tangy highlight.

Photo by Carmen Troesser

Heather Hughes is managing editor at Sauce Magazine. 

Related Content
• Sauce Magazine: October 2017

• Eat This: Root Vegetable Tagine at Olio

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Eat This: Vegetables Samosa at Everest Café & Bar

Monday, October 2nd, 2017

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If you haven’t tried the Vegetables Samosa at Everest Café & Bar, it’s time to check your priorities. Deep golden-brown pyramids of house-made pastry are filled with velvety smashed potatoes studded with peas and onion and fragrant with coriander. The crunchy, tender pockets are perfectly seasoned and delightful on their own, but the accompanying red tamarind sauce adds a sweet, tangy highlight.

Photo by Carmen Troesser

Heather Hughes is managing editor at Sauce Magazine. 

Related Content
• Sauce Magazine: October 2017

Eat This: Root Vegetable Tagine at Olio

Eat This: The Classic Breakfast Sandwich at Kitchen Kulture

Mike Randolph will open Privado in former Randolfi’s space

Thursday, September 21st, 2017

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Mike Randolph is finally getting his experimental fine-dining restaurant. As The Scoop reported in late August, Randolph closed his Italian Randolfi’s at 6665 Delmar Blvd. earlier this month. He plans to open Privado in the same space in October.

“It is exciting,” Randolph said. “It took a little bit of time to just get over the hurt of Randolfi’s, but once we figured out what was possible and what we wanted to do, we kept coming back to this.”

Privado will be a fine-dining tasting menu restaurant open on Friday and Saturday evenings for one service of about 15 courses for just 16 patrons. Tickets for each dinner will be available online for $100 each. The first service is planned for Oct. 20.

“I’ve thrown a ton of things at the wall, but I’ve never given [fine-dining] a fair chance,” Randolph said. “We want to be in there two, three, four days a week experimenting, tweaking techniques, processing ingredients.”

He plans to design the space and experience – the plating, lighting, music, even the smell in the room – in ways that were impossible at his previous fine-dining projects (Little Country Gentleman and the Diversion Dinners series), since they took place in other, permanent establishments. “This is no longer a divergence from work – this is work,” Randolph said. “This is a singular focus.”

The bar will be open around weekend dinners, so customers can have a cocktail before or after their meal. A handful of snacks and desserts will be available for those who just want to pop in for a drink as they wait for a table at Público or wander in from The Loop – though reservations are encouraged for bar seats as well.

During the week, Privado will serve as a private event space, available for everything from baby showers to cooking demonstrations, and a kind of commissary kitchen that Randolph’s other restaurants can use when they need extra space. “This will give us a really flexible space,” he said. “We can do anything we need to do within the restaurant group out of that space.”

“We’re excited – that’s the long and the short of it,” Randolph said. “It’s switched from sorrow to excitement.”

 

Photo by Greg Rannells for Mike Randolph

Heather Hughes is managing editor at Sauce Magazine. 

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First Look: Essentially Fries Food Truck

Thursday, September 7th, 2017

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Kick off the weekend with a basket of fries from one of the city’s newest food trucks, Essentially Fries. The truck debuts this Friday, Sept. 8, at Food Truck Friday in Tower Grove Park.

As The Scoop reported in May, Edibles & Essentials chef-owner Matt Borchardt announced plans to launch a food truck concept around his Southampton restaurant’s popular french fries. To maximize efficiency, Borchardt kept the menu narrow menu with one main dish and a variety of toppings.

“People constantly come up [at Edibles & Essentials] and say they’re the best freaking fries they’ve ever had,” Borchardt said. “Not a day goes by.”

Toppings range from Carolina pulled pork to fajita vegetables to white chicken chili. You can also order a classic basket, topped with just garlic and Grana Padano and served with a rich truffle aioli and a house-made smoked ketchup for dipping.

Edibles & Essentials chef Steven Teters, who has previously worked at Sidney Street Cafe, will man the truck. Borchardt and a few others will help out at big events and festivals.

“Our plan is to do primarily corporate events and obviously any festivals, Food Truck Friday-type events and community events we can,” Borchardt said. Customers can follow the truck on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram for updated locations.

 

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Editor’s note: Food Truck Friday is a Sauce Magazine event. 

Photos by Meera Nagarajan 

Heather Hughes is managing editor at Sauce Magazine. 

Related Content
• Edibles & Essentials launches french fry food truck

• Review: Edibles & Essentials

• First Look: Edibles & Essentials at St. Louis Hills

3 new places to try in August

Tuesday, August 1st, 2017

From two new breweries to a seafood boil hotspot, don’t miss these three new places you must try this August.

 

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1. The Mad Crab 8080 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.801.8698, Facebook: The Mad Crab

The Mad Crab brings a classic Gulf meal to the Midwest with built-to-order seafood boils. Settle in at a paper-lined table, then consult with your dining partners and strategize the best combination of market-priced seafood available. Will you try meaty mussels with fresh crawfish or go all out with whole lobster and snow crab legs? Don’t forget to throw in the requisite potatoes and corn on the cob, then turn your attention to the sauces or combine all three in The Whole Sha-Bang for a buttery, garlicky, spicy punch. Don your plastic bibs and grab your crab crackers (or use your bare hands) to devour the shellfish feast with messy abandon. Our only advice: Don’t wear white.

 

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2. Center Ice Brewery 3126 Olive St., St. Louis, centericebrewery.com

You don’t have to love hockey to enjoy Center Ice Brewery. Themed touches – like the low rink wall surrounding the brewing equipment and a penalty box, main bar, tables and tap handles all made in part with material reclaimed from the old St. Louis Arena – lend personality without descending into kitsch. Pull up a stool and order a Hop Shelf IPA from the brewery’s house menu (supplemented by locals like Main & Mill and Charleville Brewing Co.), or opt for the light, summery Off Season Saison to beat the heat. You’ve got a new spot to watch the Blues, but there’s no need to wait for the season opener.

 

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3. Third Wheel Brewing 4008 N. Service Road, St. Peters, 636.323.9810, thirdwheelbrewing.com

It’s good to be a third wheel in St. Peters. Snag a seat at the massive horseshoe-shaped bar and watch brewer and co-owner Abbey Spencer at work through picture windows overlooking the city’s first brewery. Order one of the house brews like the Dyslexic API, an Imperial IPA dry-hopped with Columbus and Simcoe, or the lighter Ophelia’s Wit, a traditional witbier with coriander, orange peel and rosemary. For a German summer experience, sip Going Once… Going Twice… – a flight of four 4-ounce pours of Third Wheel’s Berliner Weiss mixed with a rotating selection of traditional syrups like mint, mulberry or woodruff.

 Photos by Michelle Volansky

Eat This: The Classic Breakfast Sandwich

Tuesday, August 1st, 2017

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Do not be deceived by the menu of add-ons at Kitchen Kulture’s THE KART stand at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market. There is only one way to order The Classic Breakfast Sandwich: with everything. Thick, soft slices of sourdough bread are sprinkled with sea salt and topped with sharp cheddar, a fried farm egg, crisp strips of applewood-smoked bacon and a drizzle of local honey. The whole salty-sweet-rich extravagance is drenched in butter and griddled. Ignore the $12 price tag – no basic breakfast would get us up this early on a Saturday morning.

Kitchen Kulture’s The Kart, Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, Tower Grove Park, kounterkulturestl.com

Photo by Carmen Troesser 

First Look: Center Ice Brewery in Midtown

Friday, July 21st, 2017

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It’s blistering hot outside, but Center Ice Brewery is keeping things cool in Midtown. The hockey-themed brewery opened today, July 21 at 3126 Olive St., just a couple doors down from Pappy’s Smokehouse and Southern.

As The Scoop reported in August 2016, Center Ice is the brainchild of owner-brewer Steve Albers. “I’ve been playing hockey since I was a kiddo. It’s in my blood,” Albers said. “Breweries represent the brewer’s personality – and that’s me.”

The 5,000-square-foot brewery features reclaimed materials from the old St. Louis Arena – the wood bar and tables in the 2,000-square-foot main bar area used to make up the arena’s roof, and the old penalty box door can be found as a photo-op box adjacent to Center Ice’s brewing equipment. The brewing floor is separated from customers by a low rink wall, which also curves around a private event space that will accommodate 30 to 40 people and offers 10 private taps.

A long time homebrewer, Albers planned to open with three of his own brews along with supplemental taps from area breweries like Main & Mill and Charleville Brewing Co. Center Ice’s opening lineup includes Golden Contract (an American golden ale contract brewed with Charleville), Hop Shelf IPA (a West Coast-inspired IPA) and Off Season Saison (a light, summery example of the style).

Albers said he chose approachable styles to open, but plans on starting a berry series made with fresh fruit and other more unusual beers soon. “With so many beers out there, you should set yourself apart and make something exciting,” he said.

Center Ice is open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Here’s a first look at what to expect from St. Louis’ first hockey-themed brewery:

 

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Photos by Michelle Volansky 

Heather Hughes is managing editor, print at Sauce Magazine.

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The Scoop: Center Ice Brewery to open in Midtown

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What I Do: Logan Ely at Square1 Project

Thursday, June 1st, 2017

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Chef Logan Ely doesn’t know what he’s doing, but he’s figuring it out. A St. Louis native, Ely moved back in February after stints at James Beard Award-winning restaurants like Blue Hill in New York City and Pass & Provisions in Houston, to name a few.

He started his underground dinner series, Square1 Project, while looking for a permanent restaurant space. With a propensity for fermented flavors and radically sustainable ingredients – think weaver ants, not just local produce – he serves unique, 14-course tasting menus prepared with minimal equipment and limited resources. He might just know more than he’s letting on.

 

“I had zero money. I had a couple friends who I knew would help me and be a part of it, but I had zero vendors. I was like, ‘Oh, shit. How are we going to do this?’ That’s square one: I know I need tables and chairs. I know I need to get a good credit card and max that thing out. I didn’t want help. I wanted to build this up to something … find my voice. I think it’s the same thing with a writer or a painter. You need a venue to write and get better at what you do, and this is what that is for me – and us, I should say. That’s Square1 Project.”

“Cooking is such a hard thing to do and dedicate your life to. To me, it has to mean something. It’s gotta be important. It’s not enough to just open a restaurant and be like, okay now I want to get an award or two. … I certainly wouldn’t call myself an activist at all, but I’m in that realm of, ‘Hey, it’s OK to eat insects, and look – I can make this taste really good, and it’s sustainable, and you get to support this woman in Denver that’s really trying to do this thing.’ [Wendy Lu McGill, from Rocky Mountain Micro Ranch] is an activist. She’s out doing speeches and all that stuff. I think that’s where I see this whole project, restaurant, team going.”

“I’m not going to hand you a bowl of maggots or anything. You won’t even probably see the bugs. Right now I have a garum, a fish sauce, going with crickets and a miso that will take 10 weeks with weaver ants. It’s not gross. I wish I had some on me – I’ve been giving people tastes. When the vendors come by I’m like, ‘Here, taste this.’”

“It’s not like a chef comes into a kitchen and writes a menu and teaches a cook how to do it and that’s it. It’s like, ‘Hey, the fish delivery didn’t show up,’ or, ‘Hey, there’s a gas leak,’ or, ‘This thing caught on fire,’ or, ‘The health inspector is going to shut us down unless this is fixed.’ It’s literally that every single day. It’s the unglamorous part of the gig. It’s what all these Netflix shows don’t show – the chef in the back trying to fix the oven.”

“[North Pond in Chicago] was the first restaurant I worked at where it was so hard, I hated every day of it. Nothing was ever right that I did, nothing was ever good enough. I wasn’t fast enough. I wasn’t clean enough. I was terrible. I had stomachaches every day. … And then, a year-and-a-half goes by, and you realize, ‘I’m way better than my first day.’ The chef [Bruce Sherman] pulled me outside and was like, ‘Hey, good job. You did really well. I pushed you really hard and you were there every step of the way and you grew a lot and I’m really proud of you.’ That was huge.”

“There’s always those things you don’t learn as a cook. Anything fermented, you don’t get a lot of in kitchens – most health departments or inspectors don’t like to see that shit around. So when we were in New York, me and my buddy decided we should know how to do charcuterie. So we started fermenting meat, and we ended up with like seven refrigerators full in our Brooklyn apartment – it was hilarious. He actually now owns a butcher shop in Brooklyn.”

“I get bored very easily. We’ll put something on the menu, and four weeks later I’m like, ‘Oh my God, that’s so embarrassing. I can’t believe we were actually serving that.’”

“At a successful restaurant, the chefs work more hours than the cooks. Dan [Barber, chef at Blue Hill] is a good example. Between the two restaurants, writing his book, doing TED Talks and all this stuff. He’s an awesome dude, very smart, but he’s working his ass off. He’s doing so much stuff. I think that’s inspiring, and it keeps you going if you’re having a hard night or a rough week.”

Book your reservation at Square1 Project, Twitter: @Square1_Project, Instagram: @square1_project

Photo by Ashley Gieseking

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First Look: Pizza Head on South Grand

Wednesday, April 19th, 2017

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{ Pizza Head chef-owner Scott Sandler }

 

Scott Sandler, best known for his vegetarian Neapolitan pizzeria Pizzeoli, is putting the finishing touches on his latest pizza project, Pizza Head. As The Scoop reported in January Sandler took over the space at 3196 S. Grand Ave., the former home of Absolutli Goosed and Brickyard Tavern. The new restaurant will serve up New York-style pies to the sounds of classic punk music when it opens in early May.

The menu features cheese, white and vegan 20-inch pizzas with a short list of vegetarian toppings. With just one salad and a handful of drinks, the barebones menu is focused on pizza specials. An enormous cheese pizza and four 16-ounce cans of Stag are available for $25, or snag two foldable slices and a pint for $8.

“The great thing about this pizza is it’s great warmed up,” Sandler said. “Reheated it’s almost better.” He hopes about half the business will be carryout and plans to partner with Postmates to offer delivery.

Pizza Head will be open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, starting around the first week of May with a possible soft opening next week. Here’s a first look at what to expect on South Grand’s newest place to grab a slice:

 

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Photos by Michelle Volansky

Heather Hughes is managing editor, print at Sauce Magazine. 

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The Scoop: Pizzeoli owner to open Pizza Head on South Grand

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DTWE: Schlafly’s Dr. Kentucky’s Concoction from his Curious Cabinet Batch No. 40004

Friday, April 7th, 2017

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Get a sneak peek of Schlafly’s Art Outside festival when you pick up the fourth installment of the brewery’s Artist Series. “This is an area where we can step outside the norm a bit,” said brand specialist Wil Rogers.

Local artist Noah MacMillan worked with a team at Schlafly to develop the beer and illustrate branding for the special release with an absurdly long name: Dr. Kentucky’s Concoction from his Curious Cabinet Batch No. 40004. 

The beer, available in 750-milliliter bottles, is a riff on a whiskey buck cocktail: a golden ale flavored with ginger root, lime juice and bourbon-barrel chips. If you grab a bottle with a tag, hold onto it until Memorial Day weekend. Some will win a free gift from a curious cabinet at Schlafly’s Art Outside Festival May 28 to 26.

Of course, the beer itself is the real golden ticket: bright and bubbly with a subtle zip of ginger, we’re crushing some this weekend. Dr. Kentucky’s Concoction from his Curious Cabinet Batch No. 40004 is available at local bottle shops and groceries.

Photo by Heather Hughes

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