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Apr 23, 2017
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Posts Tagged ‘Jenny Cleveland’

Readers’ Choice 2015: Favorite Restaurant – Cleveland-Heath

Thursday, July 9th, 2015

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Jenny Cleveland and Ed Heath culled the inspiration for their 4-year-old Edwardsville restaurant from family recipes, restaurant road trips and tenures in other people’s kitchens. The result: an arsenal of cooking techniques, unexpected dish compositions and core dining philosophies that are the hallmarks of your favorite restaurant of the year, Cleveland-Heath.

The Pork Chop
Heath: The pork chop was the one I’d done at Henry’s Fork Lodge, a little seasonal fishing place in Island Park, Idaho. I knew in Idaho they were meat-and-potato people, and I thought I could branch out with some bread pudding. It went over really well. I think I did asparagus or green beans and the pork chop. The egg came later.

Cleveland: The egg is us because the only meal we ever cooked at home was breakfast. It was always leftovers and an egg on top. Everyone says the egg on top of things is done, but I don’t see how it will ever be done because it tastes so good.

The Chicken Wings
Heath: We ate at Redd in Napa a lot. Their chicken wings were the best we ever had … It was a Michelin-starred restaurant, and we would always sit at the bar and eat the stupid chicken wings. It was like a dark soy-caramel glaze. We tried to figure out the sauce. We worked on it at our place for six months before we came up with our chicken wings.

The BLT
Heath: We used to eat BLTs four days a week in Napa. There was a little grocery store a block and a half from our house.

Cleveland: We’d walk down and get two cups of coffee, two BLTs with pickles on them and bring them back.

Heath: Tom (Grant) at Martine (Cafe, Salt Lake City) used to take cherry tomatoes and cover them in garlic and olive oil. At the end of the night, he’d throw them in the oven and leave them for 12 hours until he got back the next day. It was like tomato sauce in a bite. At our place, we were going to do it that way, but our volume got too high. We go through 10 cases of Roma tomatoes a week just to keep the BLT on the menu. Ours are roasted; we can’t really call them oven-cured.

The Pulled Pork Sandwich
Heath: At Farmstead (St. Helena, California), we did ours on the smoker, which was our original intention (for Cleveland-Heath). But once again, volume hit, and we had to start braising. We have the pretzel bun because Companion came by to do our bread. We wanted our pickles to be different, so we did cider vinegar and coriander seed. And when you get all that together – the bite of the coriander seed with the blue cheese dressing – I will eat that sandwich every day.

Cleveland: I think the pickles are because that’s how my mom did them. That’s how I grew up eating pulled pork.

Heath: The blue cheese coleslaw – that was (Farmstead’s) Seamus Feeley. Seamus did the blue cheese coleslaw, so we borrowed it. I don’t think we could have opened without me having worked for him for a year at Farmstead.

The Shaved Raw Beef and Celery Kung Pao
Cleveland: This January, we ate at Mission Chinese in New York. They had this celery dish on the menu that was just the simplest.

Heath: Celery, hazelnuts, soy sauce.

Cleveland: It looked like sauteed celery with hazelnuts, and it was so good. … When we got back, for two days we did nothing but: “No, this is how it was,” “No, this is how it was.” … It was like this celery competition. We were trying to hit the flavor with that dish.

Heath: It’s strange, though. It’s not carpaccio because it’s not super thin. But if you cut it against the grain, it gets that nice chewy element … It was seriously like eating at a regular Chinese restaurant where you get big chunks of celery in a dish. But his was so beautiful and tall and gorgeous, and we’re like, this is the best celery stick I’ve ever eaten. … And what’s everyone saying right now? Celery’s the new thing. I can see that.

The Vibe
Cleveland: Prune (New York City) was awesome.

Heath: It’s tiny and it’s not dirty, it’s –

Cleveland: It’s worn. It’s like your favorite teddy bear. The food had a lot of heart.

The Wait Time
Heath: What’s that ramen place we went?

Cleveland: Ippudo (New York City). The food was amazing. We waited an hour and something for that table. I walked away thinking that’s not a big deal. I would’ve waited longer to eat there. The wait is a sensitive thing for us. I feel so bad – on the weekends, our wait gets so long. So I really appreciated waiting. And I didn’t mind.

The Plating
Cleveland: Ad Hoc (Yountville, California) was family style. The plating was designed to look sort of unplanned, but it was incredibly precise. The thing that you walk away with from there is that casual and comfortable is not an accident. It takes just as much work as fine dining.

-photo by Jonathan Gayman

In This Issue: Rumor has it…

Saturday, March 1st, 2014

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{Cleveland-Heath co-owners Jenny Cleveland and chef Ed Heath}

Rumor has it…

…that Cleveland-Heath‘s proprietors Ed Heath and Jenny Cleveland are trying to open a casual cocktail bar in the old Township Grocer space on Main Street in Edwardsville.

…that restaurateur Ben Poremba is opening a bar called Private near Elaia and Olio in Botanical Heights.

…that the former Niche space in Benton Park is going to see life as a restaurant again and that Sidney Street Cafe‘s Kevin Nashan is the guy behind it.

Get The Scoop on these stories as they develop and for all the latest news on the St. Louis dining scene.

 

 

The Scoop: Exec chef from The Crow’s Nest now perched at Cleveland-Heath

Thursday, August 23rd, 2012

Jimmy Hippchen has left his position as executive chef at The Crow’s Nest in Maplewood. Hippchen’s new perch is across the river at Cleveland-Heath in Edwardsville, Ill., where he is working as a line cook.

“He’s got a great resume,” said chef-owner Jenny Cleveland of her newest employee, noting that Hippchen’s employment history is less important to her than the fact that he is “a hard worker with a great attitude. He seems to have a willingness to want to learn, which is fantastic.”

Mike McLaughlin, owner of The Crow’s Nest, told The Scoop that he expects the same smart pub fare that wowed Sauce contributor Matt Berkley in his review of The Crow’s Nest to continue coming from the kitchen. “We’re going in the same direction,” said McLaughlin. “Nothing is really going to change.” Currently overseeing the back of the house at The Crow’s Nest as a chef-consultant is Justin Shire. McLaughlin noted that he and Shire, who owns Labeebee’s Mid-East Cafe, have worked together before on various projects and events.

— Photo by Jonathan Gayman

The Scoop: Cleveland-Heath to showcase Midwest roots, California flavor in old Fond space

Thursday, November 10th, 2011

111011_ClevelandHeathThe space at 106 North Main St., in Edwardsville, Ill., formerly home to Fond (chef-owner Amy Zupanci’s shuttered farm-to-table fine dining restaurant), will soon be occupied by a new restaurant: Cleveland-Heath, as first reported by the Riverfront Times’ Ian Froeb.

The tagline for Cleveland-Heath is “Midwest Roots, California flavor.” Owners Jenny Cleveland and Eric “Ed” Heath have returned to their native Midwest to open the “all-American” bar and grill, bringing with them a culinary background honed especially from time spent in California. (For Cleveland, that includes tenures at Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc and The French Laundry.) “We are from here. We know our tastes are very much home-style food,” explained Cleveland, adding that the “California flavor” phrase in the restaurant’s tagline implies “attention to produce and product.”

The menu at Cleveland-Heath will include starters, soups, salads, sandwiches, sides and entrées, with items ranging from $5 to $13. When asked which menu items she was most excited about, Cleveland touted the chicken wings, the gnocci used in the chicken-and-dumpling soup, and the house biscuits. “They are buttermilk biscuits. They get tall and fluffy. They’ve got cheddar and herbs. They are really good and I’m not even a bread person,” she raved.

Soft openings will be held at Cleveland-Heath the week prior to Thanksgiving. On Nov. 23, the restaurant will open with a full bar but limited food menu. And on Friday, Nov. 25, it will open for dinner, with lunch service beginning Monday, Nov. 28. Regulars of Fond will notice a few changes to the space, including expansion of the bar to a 16-seat capacity.

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