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Mar 22, 2018
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Posts Tagged ‘Salume Beddu’

The Scoop: Salume Beddu to move inside Parker’s Table

Wednesday, April 19th, 2017


{ The Beast Sandwich at Salume Beddu } 


Salume Beddu will soon stack its signature sandwiches at a new location and embark on a new partnership. As reported by the St. Louis Post-Dispatch, owner Mark Sanfilippo will move the retail sandwich portion of the business to Parker’s Table at 7118 Oakland Ave., leaving behind its current location at 3467 Hampton Ave.

“We’re going to start rolling out sandwiches (at Parker’s Table) in the next few weeks, just to make sure everything’s tight and working well,” Sanfilippo said. “The last service at the Hampton location will be Saturday, May 13.”

Salume Beddu moved its wholesale production and curing operations a larger facility in Olivette last year.

“The wholesale business has grown to a point where I really need to hunker down and focus in on it,” he said. “I’m just spread really thin between the two places, and the staff is pretty lean. In talking to Jonathan (Parker), we both thought it seemed like a great fit and a great way to keep the sandwiches going and allow me to focus in on the wholesale side more.”

Parker said he looks forward to the new addition to his Richmond Heights specialty shop. “I think it’s going to be great,” Parker said. “We’ve been friends for years. It just makes sense.”

Sandwiches will be available roughly around the same hours as the Hampton location, 11 a.m. to 3 or 4 p.m., but there won’t be seating inside. Most Salume Beddu products will be available to purchase at Parker’s Table as well, and Sanfilippo said he’ll periodically do salumi pop-ups, where he’ll bring with a slicer to offer specialty cuts like coppas and culatellos. He also hopes to do pop-up family-style dinners at Parker’s Table this summer, focusing on regional Italian cuisine.

Photo by Holly Fann

Matt Sorrell is staff writer at Sauce Magazine. 

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Budget Crunch: 10 delicious dishes and sweet deals to try now

Thursday, February 25th, 2016

It’s time for Budget Crunch, wherein intrepid reporter Holly Fann offers 10 tips on delicious menu items and sweet deals happening now. Got $10 and some change? Grab a friend and sample, split and stuff yourselves with these steals.




1. Take your lunch cravings to Salume Beddu for The Beast, a beautiful mess of a sandwich featuring house-made fiama salsiccia, peporanata and grain mustard on crusty bread. Savory, rich and loaded with tender sweet peppers, this sammy will only set you back $8.50, leaving you enough cash to add a San Pellegrino to wash it all down.

2. Don’t let U City Grill’s gruff appearance keep you from ordering a primo bowl of bimbimbap. A Korean dish literally meaning “mixed rice,” it is a bowl filed with bulgogi beef, vegetables, hot sauce and topped with a fried egg. For only $6, you’ll get to enjoy some of the tastiest Korean fare in St. Louis.




3. Cleveland-Heath offers its full menu at lunch and dinner, allowing you to order the Okonomiyake or Japanese Pancake whenever your heart desires. The traditional Japanese street food receives a lavish upgrade, topped with wild Gulf shrimp, bacon, cabbage, Kewpie mayo, barbecue sauce and bonito flakes for $9.

4. The gelato pops at the new fast-casual Italian eatery Porano Pasta are not the dull popsicles of your youth. These velvety pops come in flavors like mango, vanilla bean, Askinosie chocolate and salted caramel. At only $3 a pop(!), these fun treats are a steal.




5. Vegetarians can feast on the Mediterranean Grain Salad at Winslow’s Home completely guilt free. The satisfying salad is chock-full of bulghur, farro, cucumber, peppers, olives, capers, feta, parsley, lemon, hummus and topped with a crispy falafel. The half size is generous and runs $7, but you can order an even heartier full order for $10.

6. At Bar Les Freres you can dine on four warm potato blinis dressed with creme fraiche and a handsome portion of caviar, all served on fine bone china for a mere $10. Surrounded by the dim glow of candles, attentive staff and overstuffed settees, you’ll feel like royalty.




7. The first thing you see when you enter Royal Chinese BBQ is the open kitchen window displaying golden, crisp-skinned ducks and hunks of glistening cherry-red pork. Order the Honey Roasted Pork and a cook will go to the window, retrieve the slow-cooked and lacquered pork from the hook and slice up a portion for you. The caramelized, sticky goodness is served with steamed white rice for just $9.50 an order.

8. Sometimes over-the-top flavor and a little indulgence is exactly what you need. Fulfill both with the Pat Say Jack Burger from The Kitchen Sink. Grilled andouille, roasted pork loin, jalapeno bacon, Swiss and pepper jack cheese, fried pickles and fried banana peppers struggle to stay atop the toasty bun. Served with house chips, this mega meal will set you back an even ten spot.




9. Cocktails at Water Street Cafe are intriguing combinations of liquors, spirits, fruits and sometimes, vegetables. The $10 Sweet Pea Cocktail uses green tea-infused vodka, local Lion’s Tooth dandelion liquor, lemon and muddled snap peas and mint for a refreshing, vegetal sipper.

10. For a great happy hour snack for two, try the Imam Baylidi at Olio. A Middle Eastern dish of charred eggplant, yogurt and pomegranate molasses, the creamy dip is served with slices of crusty bread. At $10, its bright, vibrant flavor will satiate and satisfy early evening munchies.


-photos by Holly Fann 


The List: 20 dishes, drinks, places and faces we love now – Part 2

Monday, April 13th, 2015

Each year, the Sauce editors compile an annual tribute to the dishes, drinks, people and places we love in The Lou: The List. Here, Part 2 of our 2015 lineup, featuring four brainy bartenders, restorative elixirs, secret salumi, the best fish tacos in St. Louis and a childhood favorite all grown up.

What’s on your list? Share with #TheSauceList on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and check out Part 1 of The List here.




{From left, Katie Herrera, Shae Smith, Chris Hoertel and Karen King}



6. Women Behind Bars at The Side Project Cellar

To those not fluent in craft beer-speak, decoding the global beer list at The Side Project Cellar is a bit like reading a foreign language textbook. Enter Side Project Cellar’s bartenders, four women who will not only guide you to your future favorite beer, but also they won’t make you feel like an idiot when you butcher the pronunciation of Brettanomyces (hey, you tried). Here, co-owner Karen King explains why the people she hired make Side Project Cellar one of the best places in town to grab a pint of craft beer.

Karen King: The Side Project Cellar co-owner | Years in beer: 5
The boss: “I didn’t intend to hire an all-women team, but that is who were the most talented and passionate. … I can teach someone how to bartend, but you can’t teach passion.”

Katie Herrera: Tasting room manager | Years in beer: 10
Second in command: “Besides the fact that she has an awesome personality … and she’s great behind a bar, she has experience changing kegs and deciding, ‘Oh, this keg blew and this would be a great choice to replace it.’ She’s a great person to leave in charge.”

Chris Hoertel: Bartender | Years in beer: 6
Translator: “She came from Home Wine Kitchen. We have a lot of international beer and crazy beer on draft, and she’s used to explaining really cool food ideas to people, so that’s a nice transition. People might ask ‘What’s an Oud Bruin?’ just like they might ask, ‘What’s a lardon?’”  – C.K.

Shae Smith: Bartender | Years in beer: 4
Self-starter: “Shae is super tech savvy. We use Square, and she’s teaching me how to do it. … I’ll put a new beer on draft, and I’ll look over and Shae is already looking it up on RateBeer and teaching about it.”   – C.K.





7. 4 Hands Chocolate Milk Stout Float at Ices Plain & Fancy 

All the childhood root beer floats and chocolate milk sucked up and swirled around your eyes through those crazy straw glasses have prepared you for Ices Plain & Fancy’s 4 Hands Chocolate Milk Stout Float. The vanilla ice cream base is whipped with shaved chocolate and frozen in a cloud of liquid nitrogen. Two scoops get drenched with half a pint of 4 Hands’ chocolate milk stout and the remaining beer is served on the side. Now to find those crazy straw glasses …   – C.K.


8. In-house Salumi at Salume Beddu

While Salume Beddu’s excellent Calabrese salami, soppressa da Veneto and finocchiona salami are found at most local groceries, only at its brick-and-mortar shop can you find the rarer cured meats. Experimental salami made for Salume Beddu’s quarterly Cure Club package, including an earthy hazelnut, a woodsy porcini and a take-no-prisoners ghost pepper, are available in limited batches for the public, while Beddu’s highly sought-after primal cures can be found year-round. The shop’s crown jewel is its culatello, a whole-muscle cure created from the heart of a prosciutto. Another scarce standout is the Spanish-style coppa rossa, made with smoked paprika, coriander and Chimayo chile.  – S.P.





9. Fried Baja Fish Tacos at Mission Taco

The cooks at Mission Taco Joint are Fried Baja Fish Taco specialists. Seriously. They manage to make tilapia taste as fancy as toro. First, the fish is coated in a batter made with 2nd Shift’s Sub-Mission IPA and fried to a flawless crisp, then the usual suspects of pico de gallo, green cabbage and queso fresco are piled on. It’s finished with the crème de la crème: the creamy, smoky and bright chipotle baja sauce so perfect it makes all other tacos seem tragic without it. At $3 a pop, these tacos are a steal, so buy three or four or 10 (like me).  – M.N.



10. Bone Broths at Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions

As any fantasy geek worth her salt knows, an elixir is a magical liquid that can cure illness or extend life. We feel much the same about Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions’ savory bone broths. Even though research shows that protein and collagen released from bone marrow can boost one’s immune system, the good people at Bolyard’s aren’t making any such promises about their broths. However, we must note that owner Chris Bolyard drinks a cup every day, and we think he’s in fine form (and our receipt for the broth does read “remedy” … ).

To create these broths, bones are roasted, simmered for hours and finished with a little salt and aromatics. The results are rich, clear brews, just a bit thick from the marrow released from the bones. Bolyard’s chicken broth is infused with thyme, sage, bay leaf and turmeric and smells like a cup of Thanksgiving. Kaffir lime, lemon grass and ginger are added to the beef broth, evoking the flavors of pho. The pork broth is simmered with local Arkansas Black apples from Vesterbrook Farm, as well as some Chinese five-spice, which delightfully turns the idea of mulled cider on its head.

Even though we can’t scientifically prove that the broths at Bolyard’s are granting us longer lives, with liquids this tasty, our lives are certainly enhanced.  – D.R.


-The Side Project Cellar and Mission Taco photos by Carmen Troesser; Bolyard’s photo by Greg Rannells

Budget Crunch: 10 delicious dishes and sweet deals to try right now

Thursday, December 4th, 2014

It’s time for Budget Crunch, wherein intrepid reporter Byron Kerman offers 10 tips on delicious menu items and sweet deals happening now. Got $10? Grab a friend and sample, split and stuff yourselves with these steals.



1. Leftovers get some serious love with the Holiday Mostarda for around $12 a pound at Salume Beddu. With cranberries, Bosc pears, currants, fresh ginger, white wine and mustard seeds, this relish makes the average cranberry sauce crawl back in the can. Slather some on a turkey sandwich (maybe with a little stuffing, even), and you’ll become a convert.

2. About 10 steps from Kakao in Clayton, a collaboration with Pastaria has yielded a winner: maple-roasted parsnip gelato with crumbled Kakao Big Squeal Bacon Brittle mixed in is a wonder. The crunchy delight of the brittle and the strong bacon flavor in the creamy gelato make for a sweet-savory triumph. Get a double scoop for $4.

3. The newly opened Avenue Restaurant has burst from the blocks with a nighttime happy hour that offers classy eats for small bucks. The new Monday Industry Night features drink specials and half-off the items from the bar menu from 9 to 11 p.m. Check out the half-pound burger with cheese on a brioche bun ($7), grilled ham and Swiss with grain mustard on Cuban bread ($4.50), macaroni-and-cheese ($5), French onion soup gratinee ($3 to $4), Parmesan biscuits ($1.50) or a spinach salad with blue cheese and walnuts ($4.50).




4. The Q-icide sandwich at Vernon’s BBQ & Catering has “one of every meat.” That’s pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey breast, ham, corned beef, sausage and smoked bologna, all piled to a vertiginous, Dagwood, fork-and-knife-height on the bun. The Friday special weighs more than a pound and goes for $12.

5. 5 Star Burgers has officially moved beyond its namesake menu item and added a whole new tubular section: hot dogs. Wenneman’s beef-pork blend hot dogs are split, grilled, bedded in brioche buns and topped three ways. The 5 Star Dog is simplified a Chicago style with house-made sweet relish, diced red onion and tomato ($6). The Ballpark Dog reposes beneath sauerkraut, griddled onions and bacon ($6.50). The Triple Dog Dare Ya, inspired by the restaurant’s Southwestern Dad’s Green Chile Cheeseburger, is a dog under Angus beef chili, cheddar cheese and crispy New Mexico Hatch chile peppers ($7).

6. The Whitebox Coffee Break is a new, afternoon pastry happy hour at Whitebox Eatery. Pastries, muffins, scones, cookies and sometimes even those simply ass-kicking Vincent Van Doughnuts are all half-off, dropping to $1.50 to $2 from 1:30 to 3:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Add a medium cup of Blueprint’s drip coffee for $1.25 with your selected pastry at the cafe or the sweet little Whitebox kiosk in the building next door.





7. Snack cakes referencing a certain childhood treat are waiting at Whisk: A Sustainable Bakeshop. “Twinkles” (ahem) are sticks of vanilla sponge cake filled with light vanilla fluff. They’re available on some weekends (call ahead) and for special orders at $2 each.

8. Should you find yourself at the River City Casino at 7 a.m. (and you know who you are), consider gambling on the lobster frittata. Available at the Casino’s Lewy Nine’s Café, the generous breakfast offers a big ol’ mound of lobster meat for a friendly price ($12). The dish consists of a three-egg lobster fritatta topped with a warm lobster salad with a touch of garlic and served with toast on the side.

9. Been to Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream lately? The Webster Groves scoopers have holiday flavors like eggnog, peppermint and a sugar-plum sorbet. Speaking of sugar plums, Serendipity’s new Nutcracker on Ice Cream flavor features coffee ice cream with pistachios, almonds and pecans and a fudge ribbon. The nutty creation gets its name in honor of the Metro Edge Figure Skating Club’s upcoming performance of The Nutcracker on Ice. Grab a single scoop for $3 in a cone or bowl; quarts are also available for $7 to $9.

10. The $2 Chocolate Chewy Goodness cookie, baked by Sarah’s Cake Shop, is not like other cookies. Melted marshmallow and butter caramelize around its edges for an ambrosial chewiness. Pick it up at United Provisions in The Loop.


Sneak Peek: Larder & Cupboard

Tuesday, November 11th, 2014

Those who scour grocery stores in vain for mustard-miso paste, elderberry shrubs or tart cherry grenadine, look no further. Larder & Cupboard, a specialty food store focused on small independent producers, officially opens Wednesday, Nov. 12 and will have all this and more on its shelves.

Owner Brian Pelletier, who also owns Kakao Chocolate, set up shop at 7310 Manchester Road in Maplewood, a 2,200-square-foot space that formerly housed an antique furniture store. Herringbone hardwood floors, a marble entry way and a working fireplace add to the shop’s artisanal charm. Upon entering, customers will see cupboards and shelves stacked with everything from small-batch bitters to Cool Cow Cheese to SeedGeeks heirloom seed packets.

As The Scoop first reported in August, general manager Cindy Higgerson is the woman behind the shop’s extensive inventory. Higgerson said her goal was to fill Larder & Cupboard with hard-to-find items from small, high-quality producers who source locally. St. Louis-area producers include Marcoot Jersey Creamery, Woodside Honey, Salume Beddu – and of course, Kakao. However, Higgerson said many products are new to the St. Louis market and have won or been nominated for Good Food Awards and Sofi Awards.

Area restaurants plan to add their wares to store shelves, too. Higgerson said Larder & Cupboard will soon carry fresh pasta and sauces from Pastaria, house-made condiments and sides from Juniper (currently featured in its Gift Horse holiday bags) and cuts of meat from soon-to-open Maplewood neighbor Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions.

Larder & Cupboard will be open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sundays from noon to 5 p.m. Here’s what to expect when the doors open this Wednesday:



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-photos by Michelle Volansky

The Scoop: Ben Poremba reveals plans to open a chicken shack

Friday, October 25th, 2013



As if Elaia, Olio, Salume Beddu and La Patisserie Chouquette weren’t enough to keep restaurateur Ben Poremba busy, the chef-proprietor of the first two establishments and co-owner of the latter two is adding more to his plate. Poremba revealed his plans for another restaurant with an anticipated April 2014 opening.

Poremba is currently finalizing paperwork to lease the building on Tower Grove Avenue in Botanical Heights, next door to bakery Loafer’s, opening this spring, and near the same intersection anchored by Elaia, Olio and Chouquette.

As the restaurant’s working name implies, Chicken Shack will focus on fried chicken. “Fried chicken is my favorite food,” said Poremba, when asked the impetus for the restaurant’s concept. “There are enough taquerías, pizzerias … in town.” And while some restaurants offer weekly fried chicken dinners, he sees a niche in focusing daily on “just good fried chicken,” along with upgraded southern sides like black bean hummus or bacon cheddar cornbread muffins using a family recipe from Chouquette co-owner Simone Faure. And yes, there will be waffles.

The bar will center its attention on house-made sodas and American whiskey, which Poremba said will be categorized by grain type on the menu. In a somewhat “build-your-own” manner, patrons will choose a whiskey and then decide whether they want to sip it neat, on the rocks, as a highball with a house-made sodas or in an Old Fashioned, Manhattan or mint julep. No other cocktails will be offered.

Poremba hopes elements such as a vintage jukebox, a stage for live music, a 20-seat bar and communal seating only (five communal tables with 10 seats each) will lend a casual feel to the restaurant and make it a nighttime hangout.

-photo by Greg Rannells

This week, Stacy Schultz is obsessed with …

Thursday, February 28th, 2013

{The Diavolini sausage at Salume Beddu typically comes with a warning: It’s super, crazy spicy. That’s no problem in my house, though, where Sriracha is a stand-in for ketchup. I like to crumble and saute this chile-and-pimentón-laden charcuterie into fresh pasta with garlicky greens, shallots and a little fresh cheese, but you can roll it into breakfast tacos, use it to spike a homemade tomato sauce or even brown it with veggies. However you prepare it, this spectacularly spicy sausage is proof that great meals start with great ingredients. * Besides, Salume Beddue, you can find the Diavolini at Schnucks in Des Peres.}

{In the mornings, I try to stick to something that wakes up my eyes and my metabolism. This bowl o’ steamy goodness does the trick. I combine ½ cup of old-fashioned oats with ¼ cup of cold water and a pinch of salt, and pop it in the microwave for 2 minutes. A pinch of cinnamon, a dash of chopped nuts and a handful of pomegranate seeds – aka my juicy little jewels – and I’m sated until the day’s first taste test.}

{I’ve always read The New York Times, but these days, I’m loving anything by Hungry City columnist Ligaya Mishan. Her description of food is so engaging, it always leaves me with a “Why didn’t I think of that?” feeling. To her, shrimp isn’t plumping as it grills, it’s “placidly curling;” chicken wings aren’t crisp, they’re “blistered and coppery;” and “scarlet ribbons of meat” aren’t dancing atop a hot griddle, their fat is “hissing and collapsing.” Read a story; she’ll either inspire you to get writing or get eating.}

Sneak Peek: Elaia and Olio

Wednesday, October 31st, 2012

Elaia and Olio are opening in early November. The restaurant and wine bar, located at 1634 Tower Grove Ave., at the intersection of McRee Ave., have been highly anticipated for a number of reasons. Both are projects by well-respected chef-proprietor Ben Poremba, co-owner of Salume Beddu. Poremba has nabbed talented advanced sommelier Andrey Ivanov from 33 Wine Bar, knighted him GM and handed him the reins to work his wine magic. Another reason we’re watching Elaia and Olio? The adjoining venues – both located in historic buildings (a nearly century-old home and a former gas station) – may well be key components for urban renewal in the once blighted McRee Town neighborhood now known as Botanical Heights, particularly as Elaia and Olio will soon be joined by patisserie Chouquette, right across the street.

Olio will quietly open to the public this Friday, November 2, followed by Elaia on Sunday, November 11. When regular hours of operation commence on Tuesday, November 13, doors will be open at Elaia Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 to 10 p.m.; and at Olio Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m.

For an inside look at Elaia and Olio, visit our Facebook page.

— Photos by Michelle Volansky

By the Book: Marc Vetri and David Joachim’s Bucatini Allla Matricana

Tuesday, March 20th, 2012

Growing up as a kosher-keeping kid in St. Louis sent most of my restaurant adventures in one direction: noodles of all shapes and sizes swaddled in plenty of tomato sauce (with extra sauce on the side, please). When you order pasta as much as we did growing up, you start demanding quite a bit of your big bowl of carbs. The noodles needed to be tender with a bite. The sauce should be slightly sweet with good, herbaceous flavor. And, most importantly: the spicier, the better. Hey, we had to get flavor from somewhere.

So you can imagine my delight when I eventually waved goodbye to my days as a law-abiding Jew (thanks, Sauce) and discovered the pasta dish of my traif-filled dreams: Bucatini all’Amatricana. Similar to thick spaghetti, bucatini are thick, almost rope-like, hollow noodles that soak up sauce beautifully and offer a wonderful bite when prepared correctly. The sauce here is just the way I prefer my pasta: thinned out with quality olive oil, fresh from fine San Marzano tomatoes, salty from guanciale and packing plenty of heat.

As I thumbed through Rustic Italian Food, the new book by Marc Vetri of Philadelphia’s Vetri – referred to by more than a few big wigs in the culinary world as one of the best (if not THE best) Italian restaurants in America – I was thrilled to find Bucatini all’Amatricana (or as Vetri declares it: Bucatini Allla Matricana) grace the pages. I was going to learn how to prepare my all-time favorite Italian dish from one of the country’s all-time best Italian chefs. How could this go wrong?

Well, if the sauce never comes together – that’s how. But I’ll get to that in a second. First, you need to find the ingredients, unless you plan on making your own pasta and guanciale (which Vetri suggests and includes recipes for). But without a pasta extruder or the time to cure my own meat, I set off for the markets. After quite a bit of searching, I can (fairly) safely say that the only place to find both bucatini and guanciale – an Italian salt-cured pork jowl – is at South City salumeria Salume Beddu. OK, now that the ingredients are taken care of, let’s move on to the recipe.

The major issue I had with this recipe was that the sauce simply never came together. Once I crisped up the guanciale and broke down the tomatoes, I added 1 cup of dry white wine and 2 cups of the starchy pasta cooking water and let it boil until it thickened. Problem is: It never did. Even when I added the al dente pasta and (more than enough) pecorino and, as the recipe instructed, tossed until it became creamy, it simply never thickened. Fifteen minutes and a worn-out stirring hand later, the noodles were overcooked and the sauce was still soupy. Even the (completely unnecessary) extra cup of pecorino added at the end didn’t get the job done. Next time, I’ll half the amount of liquid I add to the pan.

Soupy sauce aside, the final dish lacked flavor. The measly ¼ teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes didn’t deliver the fiery kick I was hoping for. Next time, I’d double – if not triple – the amount of heat I add to the sauce. So, my dream dish from the dream chef wasn’t the bowl of perfection I was hoping for. It doesn’t mean I won’t try it again. Being the determined, hard-headed cook that I am, I sure will. But this time, it will be with a little more knowledge, a little less liquid and a whole lot more heat!

Bucatini Alla Matricana

This is a very important dish in Italian cuisine. It gives you a taste of pork from the guanciale, a shot of salt from the pecorino and a touch of acid from the tomato. It is the quintessential example of a perfect combination that should never be altered. And by the way, it is called bucatini alla matricana, not bucatini al amatricana. Americans butcher that all the time!

Makes 4 to 6 Servings

1 lb. refrigerated extruded bucatini or 14 ounces boxed dried thick spaghetti
½ cup olive oil
8 oz. shortcut guanciale, cut into ½-inch cubes
4 peeled whole plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano if canned
¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups grated pecorino cheese
4 tsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the pasta, quickly return to a boil, and cook until tender yet firm, 2 to 7 minutes, depending on how long it has been refrigerated (or 8 to 9 minutes for the boxed stuff). Drain the pasta, reserving the pasta water.
• Meanwhile, heat 4 teaspoons of the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the guanciale and cook until crispy and golden brown, about 5 minutes, stirring now and then. Add the tomatoes and pepper flakes and break up with tongs. Add the wine and 2 cups pasta water and boil until the sauce reduces in volume and thickens slightly, about 10 minutes.
• Add the drained bucatini to the pan along with 1 cup of the pecorino, the parsley and the remaining olive oil. Taste and season with salt and pepper, tossing until the sauce is creamy. If the sauce gets too thick, add more pasta water.
• Divide among warm pasta bowls and garnish with the remaining 1 cup pecorino.

Prep Ahead
Make the bucatini up to 5 days ahead of time and the guanciale up to a week ahead of time. Keep both refrigerated in airtight containers.

Masciarelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzzi 2008 (Abruzzo): A hint of heat in any dish is always one of the first things I’ll consider when pairing a wine. This Roman classic always seems to demand plush, fruit-forward, low-tannin wine like Montepulciano, especially one with low alcohol.

Reprinted with permission from Rustic Italian Food by Marc Vetri, copyright (c) 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.    Photo credit: Kelly Campbell (c) 2011

Tell us what you love so much about your go-to pasta dish in the comments section below for a chance to win a copy of Rustic Italian Food.

And now, we’d like to congratulate Annie Cavedine, whose comment on last week’s By the Book column has won her a copy of Rôtis: Roasts For Every Day of the Week. Annie, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew!

The Scoop: Salume Beddu’s Ben Poremba to open wine bar and restaurant

Monday, February 20th, 2012

Ben Poremba, co-owner of artisanal salumeria Salume Beddu, is planning to open a wine bar and a restaurant in McRee Town. The wine bar, to be called Olio, will be located at the corner of Tower Grove and McRee Avenues, in a building that was formerly a Standard Oil gas station. The restaurant, Elaia, will be located adjacent to the wine bar, in a renovated 1920s home at 4260 McRee Ave.  A corridor will serve to connect the two structures.

“The binding ingredient is olive oil,” explained Poremba of the connection between the two eateries, noting that Elaia means “olive” and “oil” in ancient Greek, while Olio means “oil” in Italian. “The food is inspired from there.” The name Olio is also a play on the building’s former tenant; look for exterior signage touting “oil products.”

Customers at Elaia will be treated to what Poremba dubbed “Middle-terranean food.” That is, cuisine from southern Europe, North Africa and the Middle East (including his native Israel) that is made from a “classical foundation but in keeping with contemporary trends and fashions,” said Poremba. There will be an a la carte menu at Elaia, but the focus will be on a prix fixe menu: four courses with four options for each course. “It’s super-small in restaurant-speak,” said Poremba of the 30-seat restaurant. “Since it’s so few people to serve, I can be really meticulous about execution and preparation.”

The wine bar will likewise be tiny and intimate: 20 seats that include a six-seat bar and a large communal table. In warm weather, patrons can sit on the patio, although an operating garage door will let in the summertime breeze for those who stay inside. The menu will feature meats from Salume Beddu, artisanal cheeses, pickled items and other “pantry stuff.” “It will be rustic, simple food but people can make a meal out of it easily,” explained Poremba.

Poremba noted that his project has been three years in the making and that he chose the area because he likes the neighborhoods stretching from The Grove to Botanical Heights. He hopes that his location, just two blocks from Missouri Botanical Garden, will serve as an additional attraction. “I think it will do major, major stuff for the neighborhood,” said Poremba of his decision to invest in an area that is in the midst of an economic revival.

Responsible for the architectural design of project is UIC+CDO (Urban Improvement Construction and Central Design Office), which is spearheading urban renewal throughout the neighborhood. In addition to Poremba’s sites (architectural rendering pictured), the group is currently renovating the 30,000-square-foot building at 1618 Tower Grove Ave., slated to open this summer as the new home for City Garden Montessori Charter School. UIC+CDO is also developing new and renovated homes in the neighborhood.

Regarding the timeline for completion, Poremba stated that it is “going to happen this year.” He hopes to open Elaia and Olio by late summer or early fall.


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