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Mar 22, 2018
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Posts Tagged ‘sandwich’

Eat This: Chicken Sandwich at Square One Brewery

Sunday, January 1st, 2017



Chicken sandwiches are a dime a dozen, but the unassuming Grilled Chicken Sandwich at Square One Brewery is a diamond in the rough. A juicy, tender charred cutlet is draped in smoked white cheddar and topped with scallions and crispy bacon, served on a sturdy yet yielding ciabatta bun. But the crown jewel is the pungent, creamy swath of house honey mustard sauce, which takes this chicken sandwich to the next level.

Photo by Carmen Troesser

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Make This: Shrimp Roll

Friday, May 6th, 2016



Downside to not living by the ocean: no ocean. Upside to not living by the ocean: We don’t have to fight the seagulls for these sandwiches. In a large pot, bring 8 cups water plus 2 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning or salt to a boil. Remove from heat and add 1 pound medium peeled and deveined shrimp. Cover and let sit 3 minutes. Prepare an ice bath. Drain the shrimp and submerge in the ice bath to cool. In the bowl of a food processor, combine 2 egg yolks, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 clove garlic, ¼ cup fresh basil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 teaspoon horseradish. Pulse to combine. With the processor running, drizzle 1½ cups olive oil until a thick aioli forms. Roughly chop the shrimp and toss with ½ cup chopped celery and the aioli. Pile on 4 toasted hot dog buns or potato, brioche or Kaiser rolls brushed with melted butter and top with sliced tomato and lettuce.


-photo by Greg Rannells 

By the Book: “Eat Mexico” by Lesley Téllez

Thursday, December 31st, 2015



Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City’s Streets, Markets & Fondas is Lesley Téllez’s ode to her time spent studying and indulging in Mexico City’s street food scene. As with most street food, time-consuming advanced preparation (mole sauce, homemade tortillas, slow-cooked pork) makes for fast, simple assembly come dinnertime. Expected dishes like enchiladas and tacos are approachable for novice cooks, while others like squash flower huaraches and stuffed cactus paddles require patience and a sense of adventure.

I chose to make pambazos, fried chorizo and potato sandwiches that were simple to assemble. Much of the work is done in advance (such as smoky-spicy guajillo sauce and a DIY crema sauce – though I opted to buy mine), and you need to plan in advance for this sandwich. I only let my rolls sit out one day to harden, and they were still far too soft and nearly fell apart when I attempted to toast them with the guajillo sauce. A few halves were sacrificed in the toasting process.

The filling calls for 8 ounces of chorizo to 1½ pounds of Yukon gold potatoes. Healthy resolutions or no, I’ll double the amount of chorizo next time – the mostly potato-filled rolls didn’t pack nearly enough of the rich chorizo spice as I’d hoped. Still, when slathered with rich crema and crunchy iceberg lettuce, this hefty sandwich made for a satisfying (slightly nap-inducing) lunch.

Skill level: Easy to intermediate. While some recipes are lengthy and call for hard-to-find ingredients, several only require patience and a few simple steps to achieve delicious flavors.
This book is for: Anyone who once wandered through the streets of Mexico City (or wanted to) and longs for a taste of that time.
Other recipes to try: Pollo rostizado en adobo (Roasted chicken in adobo), Bistec en salsa de chile pasilla (Steak in chile pasilla sauce) or Mole verde con pollo (Green mole with chicken)
The verdict: While the sandwiches were hearty and filling, they couldn’t compete against Hartwood’s elegance and complexity. Hartwood took on all comers to earn the top spot.






Pambazos (Fried Chorizo and Potato Sandwiches)
4 servings

4 Yukon Gold or any other small waxy potato (1½ pounds total), peeled
2 tsp. lard or canola oil, plus more for frying
½ small white onion, chopped
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
8 oz. Mexican chorizo, casings removed
4 day-old Mexican telera rolls, or hoagie or Kaiser rolls
½ cup Homemade Crema (recipe follows)
1 to 2 cups shredded iceberg lettuce

For the sauce:
5 guajillo chiles, seeded, deveined and toasted briefly on a comal
¼ cup chopped onion
1 small garlic clove, peeled
½ tsp. salt, or more to taste

• Place the potatoes in a medium pot and cover them with 2 inches cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer on high until the potatoes are soft when pierced with a fork, 28 to 30 minutes. Let cool, then dice.
• Meanwhile, make the sauce: Hydrate the toasted chiles in water until the skins are soft, about 20 minutes. Transfer, with ½ cup of the chile water, into a blender jar with the onion, garlic and salt. Blend until mostly smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the blender jar. The sauce won’t be completely silky-smooth. That’s OK. Taste again and add more salt if desired.
• Heat the lard in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, stirring until sizzling and aromatic, about 30 seconds, and then add the chorizo, breaking it apart into small crumbles. Raise the heat to medium-high and stir often until the sausage is cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes.
• Stir in the potato and salt to taste. Cooked until warmed through, cover and keep warm.
• Cut each roll in half and remove some of the inner crumb. Brush the outer crust of each roll with a light coating of the chile sauce. Working in batches, warm 2 teaspoons lard or canola oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. When smoking, add one half of the bread, chile-sauce side down. Cook until dark-golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove and add the other piece of bread, also chile-sauce side down. Repeat with the remaining rolls, draining between batches on a wire rack set on top of a baking sheet.
• To serve, spoon about ½ cup of the warm chorizo and potato mixture onto one bread half, then top with a layer of crema and fistful of lettuce. Cover with the other piece of bread. Repeat with the remaining pieces of bread and serve immediately, while the bread is still crunchy and hot.

Crema Casera (Homemade Crema)
1 cup

1 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. plain yogurt (not Greek)

• Two days before you’d like to eat the crema, warm the cream in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. You should only heat to take the chill off; be careful not to overheat. Stir in the yogurt and turn off the heat.
• Pour into a small clean jar and let cool. Place the lid loosely on top, without tightening and let sit for 24 hours in a warm place.
• Place the crema in the fridge for at least 6 hours to thicken. Stir and add salt to taste (I like just a pinch) before serving.

Reprinted with permission by Kyle Books

Meatless Monday: The Reuben sandwich, 2 ways

Monday, March 9th, 2015



Corned beef is about to pop up on tables all over town, and while everyone else piles leftovers high between two slices of rye, vegetarians are stuck with a bowl of leftover boiled potatoes and some pickled cabbage. Not this year. Enter the vegetarian Reuben, made two ways. In Version A, we broil Fuji apples slices, then stack them with Thousand Island dressing, sauerkraut and Gruyere cheese. Version B sees roasted red peppers making friends with fig jam, Emmentaler and kraut. Try them both in preparation for St. Paddy’s Day, and rest assured that whatever you choose, they both go nicely with an Irish pint.

-photo by Carmen Troesser

The Scoop: Concert venue The Gramophone to become a full-time bar, expand food service

Tuesday, November 18th, 2014



A new chapter approaches for The Gramophone co-owners Andrew “Roo” Yawitz and Scott Swanston, as they transition popular Grove nightspot from a concert venue to a bar that also serves sandwiches, soups and salads. After their New Year’s Eve party, doors will temporarily close for renovation, and the reopening is scheduled for early February 2015.

The idea “has always been in our back pocket,” Yawitz said. “One factor was the increase in foot traffic in the neighborhood. As The Grove became more popular, more people are walking up and looking for a place to drink without a cover charge. We want people to be able to stop in anytime.”

The Gramophone, which began offering sandwiches in November 2013, will expand its food and drink menu with the addition of soups and sides, as well as a bloody mary menu and house-infused whiskeys. Permanent seating will soon allow for about 100 guests. However, Yawitz said The Gramophone won’t lose its touch with its music roots. “Music will still be a big part of our brand,” he said. “We’ll still have live music on the weekends mostly, and feature smaller, local bands, anything from solo acts to four-piece bands to DJs.”

After its remodel, The Gramophone will be open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m.



The Weekend Project: Banh Mi

Thursday, June 26th, 2014



When summer hits St. Louis, we imagine it feels like the streets of Saigon: humidity so heavy it purges every pore as you walk through what feels like the inside of a fishbowl. It makes sense then, that during these steamy months, we get a hankering the cool, refreshing flavors of Vietnamese street food. The banh mi, a classic example of the forced marriage between French colonial and Southeast Asian cuisines, is light, packed with vibrant flavors, and filling without weighing you down.

According to a “Wall Street Journal” article by Robyn Eckhardt, during French occupation, the Vietnamese called the newly introduced baguettes banh tay or “foreign cake.” These loaves, eaten only by the wealthy, were dipped into sweetened condensed milk as a treat. The name later evolved to banh mi or “foreign wheat;” today, baguettes in Vietnam contain wheat and rice flours, lightening the bread and increasing the crispiness of the crust.

After the Vietnamese diaspora, banh mi fillings now hail from all parts of the world. Baguettes are filled with roast chicken, grilled pork, crisp pork skin, meatballs, even tinned sardines in tomato sauce. Here in St. Louis, restaurants stuff their banh mi with shredded pork, “specialty ham” and vegetarian and vegan options topped with crushed peanuts. It’s like the ubiquitous day-after-Thanksgiving leftover sandwich – anything goes.

In addition to making your own pâté and roast pork, try your hand at making your own baguette. The dough for this French country-style loaf is simple and only requires three ingredients. The goal is to use as little flour as possible so that the yeast can create a light, airy loaf and to let the bread rise three times. All three rises can be completed in one day, or take your time and let the first or second rise take place overnight in the refrigerator.




A traditional banh mi is quite simple: smear both sides of a split, warm baguette with aioli or chicken liver pâté, stuff it with headcheese or cold cuts, then finish with a bright, crisp assortment of cilantro, do chua (pickled carrots), hot pepper slices, cucumbers and more.

This month, build a banh mi buffet and then beckon neighbors and friends for a weekend celebration without straining your budget. Spread the work over a weekend and enjoy on Sunday night with plenty of leftovers to carry you through a few hot St. Louis summer days.

The Gameplan
Day 1: Make the Pâté de Campagne. Roast the Char Siu Pork. Start the French bread.
Day 2: Bake the French bread. Prepare the do chua and the spicy aioli. Unmold the pate. Assemble the banh mi.

The Shopping List*
4 lbs. pork shoulder
8 oz. chicken or pork livers
8 oz. bacon
½ cup yellow onion
¾ cup flat Italian parsley
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
5 large eggs
3 Tbsp. brandy or high-alcohol fruit liquor
½ cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. bay leaf powder
2 Tbsp. cloves
2 Tbsp. mace
2 Tbsp. nutmeg
2 Tbsp. paprika
1 Tbsp. allspice
5 Tbsp. white pepper
3 Tbsp. hoisin sauce
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
3 Tbsp. shallot or red onion, minced
2 Tbsp. Shaohsing Rice Cooking Wine** or other rice wine
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. Chinese five-spice
2 packages (5½ tsp.) active dry yeast
6 to 7 cups bread flour
3 to 4 carrots
1 large daikon
1 1/3 cups Datu Puti Premium cane vinegar** or apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. whole coriander
1 bunch cilantro
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 lime
2 Tbsp. Sriracha

*This list assumes you have garlic, dried thyme, kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, all-purpose flour, cinnamon, canola or vegetable oil, honey and sugar at hand in your kitchen. If not, you will need to purchase these items, too.
** Shaohsing Rice Cooking Wine and Datu Puti premium cane vinegar are available at Seafood City Supermarket in University City.



Pâté de Campagne
Adapted from a recipe from The Splendid Table and Julia Child’s The Way to Cook
Makes 1 4-lb. terrine

2 lbs. pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch chunks
2 Tbsp. bay leaf powder
2 Tbsp. cloves
2 Tbsp. mace
2 Tbsp. nutmeg
2 Tbsp. paprika
2 Tbsp. dried thyme
1 Tbsp. allspice
1 Tbsp. cinnamon
5 Tbsp. white pepper
8 oz. chicken or pork livers, cleaned and cut into chunks
¾ cup chopped flat Italian parsley
½ cup chopped yellow onion
½ cup heavy cream
2 large eggs
3 Tbsp. kosher salt
3 Tbsp. brandy or high-alcohol fruit liquor (We used The Big O Ginger liqueur.)
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
8 oz. bacon

Special equipment: meat grinder attachments for stand mixer

Day 1: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.
• Spread the pork shoulder pieces evenly on a baking sheet. Freeze 20 to 30 minutes.
• Meanwhile, pulse the bay leaf powder, cloves, mace, nutmeg, paprika, dried thyme, allspice, cinnamon and white pepper in a coffee grinder or spice mill until well ground. Reserve 1½ teaspoon of spice mixture; store remaining mixture in an airtight container for another use.
• Affix the meat grinder attachment to the stand mixer. Carefully feed the chilled pork through the machine using a large die into a very large mixing bowl.
• Add the reserved spice mixture, the chicken livers, parsley, yellow onion, heavy cream, eggs, salt, brandy, garlic, flour, fresh thyme and black pepper to the meat and mix well with your hands or a large wooden spoon.
• Process the mixture through the sausage grinder again, using a small die. Fry a small patty in a saute pan until cooked through and taste. Adjust seasoning as needed.


• Place a bay leaf in the center of a loaf pan, then line the loaf plan completely with bacon. Fill the loaf pan with the meat mixture and press it down firmly. Fold the bacon ends over the ground meat and cover the pan tightly with foil.
• Place the pâté in a larger roasting pan and fill it with water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the loaf pan.
• Bake the pâté 50 minutes, until the interior temperature reaches 150 degrees. Remove the foil and continue baking another 5 to 10 minutes, until the temperature reaches 155 degrees. Remove the roasting pan from the oven and take the pâté out of the water bath. The pâté will continue cooking as it rests and will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees.
• Place the pate in another roasting pan or baking dish with a lip (It will leak juices as it cools.). Place a second loaf pan on top and weigh it down with 2 or 3 canned goods and let rest. Once the pâté is cooled, refrigerate overnight to set completely.
Day 2: Gently run a knife around the pate to remove it from the pan and turn it out on a cutting board. Slice and use for banh mi. Pâté will keep, wrapped and refrigerated, at least 1 week.



Char Siu Roast Pork
Adapted from Andrea Nguyen’s Into the Vietnamese Kitchen
4 to 6 servings

3 Tbsp. hoisin sauce
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
3 Tbsp. minced shallot or red onion
2 Tbsp. honey
2 Tbsp. canola or vegetable oil
2 Tbsp. Shaohsing rice cooking wine
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. Chinese five-spice
2 lbs. pork shoulder roast

Day 1: Whisk together the hoisin, soy sauce, shallot, honey, oil, rice wine, garlic, fish sauce and five-spice until well blended. Pour all ingredients into a gallon-sized zip-top bag. Place the meat in the marinade, seal the bag and refrigerate at least 6 hours.
• Remove the meat from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes to 1 hour before roasting and allow it to come to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees.
• Place the roast on a rack in a roasting pan. Reserve the marinade for basting. Roast the pork shoulder 30 to 45 minutes, basting every 10 minutes with the marinade, until the internal temperature reaches 145 degrees. Let the pork rest on a cutting board at least 10 minutes. Slice and use for banh mi. Roast will keep, wrapped in plastic wrap, refrigerated up to 1 week or frozen up to 3 months.



French Bread
Makes 4 baguettes

2 packages (5½ tsp.) active dry yeast
5 to 6 cups bread flour, divided, plus more for kneading
1½ Tbsp. kosher salt

Day 1: Proof the yeast by pouring 2½ cups warm water in a large mixing bowl and stirring in the yeast and up to ½ cup flour. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes, until the mixture begins to bubble and smells yeasty.
• Stir in 1 cup of flour at a time, mixing in each with a long wooden spoon or bread whisk. The longer the dough is mixed, the better developed the strands of gluten will be, resulting in a higher, lighter loaf. When almost all the flour has been added, mix in the salt until the well incorporated and tacky.


• Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead 5 to 10 minutes, until it is evenly incorporated and feels soft and elastic. Place the dough into a large, clean mixing bowl and cover with oiled plastic wrap.
• Place the dough in a warm place and let it rise 1½ hours, until the dough has doubled in size. Punch down the dough and flip it over to keep it evenly moist. Cover again with oiled plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight to rise again.
Day 2: Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature. Turn the dough out on a floured surface. Using a very sharp knife, slice the dough into 4 equally weighted pieces.
• Place a pizza stone or upside-down baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 450 degrees.


• Using floured hands, gently shape a piece of dough into a 1-inch thick rounded rectangle about the size of a standard business envelope.
• Fold the side of the rectangle closest to you up as if folding a letter into thirds, pressing the dough together to push out any air bubbles. Gently roll the dough back and forth with your hands, securing the shape. The dough will start to lengthen.
• Fold the top third of the dough into the bottom third, pressing the dough together to push out any air bubbles. Gently roll the dough into a long tube until the desired baguette length is reached. Tuck the ends under to shape them, if necessary.


• Place the baguette on a baguette rising pan or a clean, floured kitchen towel. Repeat the folding method with the remaining pieces of dough, leaving 2 to 3 inches between each loaf on the towel. When all the baguettes are formed, pull the extra fabric between each loaf straight up, creating a small barrier between each loaf and creating a small trough where each loaf can rise. Use a very sharp knife to slice 3 to 4 slits in the top of each loaf to release any air. Cover the loaves with oiled plastic wrap and let rise 20 minutes.
• Fill an oven-safe dish with 10 to 12 ice cubes and place on the bottom of the hot oven. This will provide the steam that will create a crisp crust for the baguettes.
• Place the baguette rising pan in the oven. If using the towel method, flip a baking sheet over, and line the bottom with parchment paper and dust with flour. Using floured hands, gently move the baguettes onto the parchment paper. Then slide the paper onto the hot pizza stone or baking sheet. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until the baguettes sound hollow when tapped and are a light brown. Use for banh mi. Baguettes wrapped in plastic wrap will keep 3 to 5 days.




Do Chua (Quick Pickled Carrots and Daikon)
Makes 1 quart

3 to 4 carrots, julienned lengthwise
½ to 2/3 of a large daikon, julienned lengthwise
1 1/3 cups Datu Puti Premium cane vinegar or apple cider vinegar
2/3 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. salt
1 Tbsp. whole coriander seeds
1 bunch cilantro

Day 2: Mix the carrots and daikon in a bowl, then pack into a quart container with a tight-fitting lid.
• Place the remaining ingredients in a heavy-bottomed 6- to 8-quart pot with 2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 10 to 15 minutes until fragrant.
• Strain the brine through a fine mesh sieve into a large pitcher or other pourable container. Pour the hot brine over the vegetables, filling the container. Discard any remaining pickling liquid. Cover the container and refrigerate. The pickles are ready to use as soon as they are cool. Use for banh mi, or keep refrigerated several months.

Spicy Aioli
Makes 1 pint

3 egg yolks
2 Tbsp. Sriracha
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. salt
Juice of 1 lime
1 cup canola or vegetable oil

Day 2: In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the egg yolks, Sriracha, mustard, salt and lime juice until combined. With the machine running, slowly drizzle the oil into the mixture until the aioli is emulsified, using as little or as much oil as needed. Taste and adjust seasoning. Use for banh mi. Aioli will keep, refrigerated, up to 1 week.



-photos by Michelle Volansky

The Scoop: Sandwich shops open doors in The Loop, Midtown

Monday, June 2nd, 2014


{Sandwiches and Zapp’s chips from Snarf’s}

Hungry for crusty bread filled with whatever meat, cheese or veggie you crave? Get your fix at one of two sandwich shops, Snarf’s and Which Wich, which have both recently expanded in St. Louis.

Snarf’s opened its third location today, June 2, at 374A S. Grand Blvd., near Saint Louis University. The family-owned business offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. Although known for its made-to-order, oven-toasted sandwiches, the menu also includes breakfast sandwiches for the morning crowd, fresh salads, soups and desserts. Beer and wine are among the beverage offerings. The newest location is open weekdays from 7 a.m. to midnight and weekends from 8 a.m. to midnight.

Snarf’s entered the St. Louis market four years ago with a shop in The Loop. A location downtown in the MX Building followed in 2012. With origins in Boulder, Colorado, Snarf’s has grown to a total of 18 restaurants located throughout that state, as well as in Chicago and St. Louis. A shop is also slated to open this summer in Austin, Texas.



{Sandwich bags to order at Which Wich}

A new local unit for national sandwich chain Which Wich open less than two weeks ago in The Loop at 6662 Delmar Blvd., in the space formerly occupied by Cold Stone Creamery. This unit is operated by franchisee Satish Kumar, who also owns House of India in University City.

Which Wich offers more than 50 varieties of customizable sandwiches and is known for its ordering system. Patrons fill out their orders on a sandwich bag with the menu printed on it. Customers choose from one of 10 sandwich categories (such as turkey, Italian or seafood), then select the type of bread, sandwich length, cheese, spreads and vegetables. The sandwiches are made-to-order and handed to customers in the marked-up bag. This makes the third St. Louis-area Which Wich unit; the other two are located in Des Peres and Chesterfield.



Meatless Monday: Rosalita’s Cantina’s Roasted Vegetable Torta

Monday, January 27th, 2014



The roasted vegetable torta at Rosalita’s Cantina is proof positive that going veg does not mean going hungry. Piled inside a big ‘ol artisan roll is a messy mélange of veggies – zucchini, broccoli, jalapenos, onions, tomatoes – plus avocado, refried beans and queso fresco. A creamy, jalapeno mayo with just a hint of heat pulls it all together. It’s hot, filling goodness on a cold winter’s day. Gracias, Rosalita.



Meatless Monday: Kayak’s Cortina

Monday, November 25th, 2013



When it comes to eating vegetarian fare at a Kaldi’s location, Clayton-Demun‘s vegetarian-only menu is the obvious choice; however, Kayak’s menu should not be overlooked. Although the coffeehouse became a part of the Kaldi’s Coffee family in 2010, its menu offers items different from any other location, such as the Cortina. This (sort of) healthy, green grilled cheese features earthy portabella mushrooms, melted dill, havarti cheese and a tangy pesto and horseradish aioli pressed between two slices of rustic white bread.

The Scoop: Potbelly Sandwich Shop to open in Clayton Nov. 12

Tuesday, November 5th, 2013


Those who work  in Clayton will soon have another spot to grab a quick bite on their lunch breaks. Potbelly Sandwich Shop will open a second St. Louis-area location in Clayton Nov. 12. The popular Chicago-based sandwich shop opened its first franchise in Creve Coeur in August 2012 under the co-ownership of Todd and Angie Stimson and Lawrence and Monica Boveri. The same group also owns this newest location at 12 S. Bemiston Ave.

“Clayton has a built-in fan base of loyal Potbelly fans because numerous companies located in Clayton also have offices in Chicago, so their employees are very familiar with our shops,” Todd Stimson said in a press release.

Potbelly, which offers toasted sandwiches, salads, soups, shakes and live music during the week, will be open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. And for those who find themselves working through lunch, the shop will offer delivery from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

“It’s most certainly our people, place and products that make the Potbelly experience so unique,” Stimson said. “We have a very friendly, enthusiastic staff; cool, eclectic decor; and excellent food.”



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