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Nov 23, 2017
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Posts Tagged ‘Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery’

Short List: St. Louis’ top 3 house pretzels

Friday, September 8th, 2017

Is there anything better equipped to satiate hunger and simultaneously increase thirst than the pub pretzel? I haven’t found it. A bready, delicious heft of hot, salty carbs served with mustard and cheese for slathering, washed down with a cold pint, it’s the perfect feast. While the pretzel is decidedly German, it has taken on a life of its own in St. Louis. Here are three of the best house-made pretzels this side of the Rhine. 

 

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1. Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern 2101 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.4677, charlevillebeer.com

The pretzel at Charleville is made with spent grain – that’s the grain left over from the beer-brewing process – and comes out with a glowing, blond hue. The top is salted and slathered in butter, which pools at the bottom of the plate and soaks the base of the crust that’s dredged in leftover grain. The dough is heady with a hint of nuttiness in the aftertaste, and when you pull it apart, it doesn’t tear – it shreds. The rosemary whole-grain mustard offers an initial hint of sweetness, but it is spicy enough to singe your nose hair. Order with a pint of house Half Wit Wheat for the perfect pairing.

 

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2. Das Bevo 4749 Gravois Ave, St. Louis, 314.396.6900, dasbevo.com

Recently opened in Bevo Mill, Das Bevo is already making headway with its pretzel game, relying on the skills of Anne Cronin (the pretzel maker who also sells her goods at the Arnold Farmers Market). These beauties come German-style, two by two, with a hot, crunchy crust that bounces back if you give it a pinch. The extra heap of salt on top means you’ll need nothing less than a pitcher of Griesedieck to accompany them. Enjoy with both house-made grain mustard and beer pub cheese sauce on the side.

 

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3. Union Loafers Café & Bread Bakery 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com

The pretzels at this first-rate bakery have a rustic personality. They are handmade daily in the classic knot shape (with a gentle twist at the top) and finished with a lovely scatter of big, square Maldon salt flakes. Less buttery than some, these Bavarian-style beauties take a generous lye bath for a dark color and a thick, chewy crust. The house-made grain mustard served with it is exceptional, but unnecessary since the flavor of the dough unravels in your mouth as soon as you take a bite.

Photos by Izaiah Johnson

Kevin Korinek is a freelance writer and photographer with a passion for making homemade pie.

Best New Restaurants: No. 2 – Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery

Monday, December 14th, 2015

Opening a restaurant isn’t easy. Each year, hundreds give it a shot – and not everyone succeeds. Some, however, aren’t just surviving; they’re killing it. In the last year, we ate our way through newly opened restaurants from Alton to Ballwin, compiling a list of places that serve the food and drinks we can’t get out of our heads. They bring something different and exciting to the scene – and they do it damn well. While technical excellence was a must, the service and ambiance also had to win us over. Office debates nearly came to fisticuffs, but at last we agreed on St. Louis’ 11 best new restaurants of 2015. Clear your schedule and book your reservations; you’ve got a lot of eating to do.

 

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Three years after Sauce published a story on how Ted Wilson was going to change the St. Louis bread scene with a new bakery, we can finally report that we were right. Wilson and co-founder Sean Netzer opened Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery in Botanical Heights at the end of September, a lunch spot serving sandwiches on bread unrivaled in the city.

The key to Loafers’ loaves is fermentation. The bread is naturally leavened, meaning the bakery doesn’t just avoid chemical compounds like baking soda. In all but two of Loafers’ breads, it means avoiding even mass-produced yeast. Instead, Wilson starts with just flour and water, and carefully cultivates the yeast that occurs naturally, watching over it as it ferments – think of sourdough starters or Amish friendship breads.

Aside from the incredible flavor this process produces, Wilson is objectively fascinated by fermentation. The fact that he can start with water and flour and end up with bread makes him giddy. “In some way, it takes responsibility off your shoulders. Your role is to set up this environment … you can only be in control of so much,” Wilson said. “Then you just have to react, and you have to pay attention.”

This patient relationship with food requires a rare mix of fanatical curiosity and dogged perseverance – qualities reflected in Loafers’ entire team. Some, like chef Brian Lagerstrom (Sauce Ones to Watch class of 2015), left the fine dining world for Loafers to explore the freedom fermentation allows. Lagerstrom, who dabbled at Niche with house bread and cheese programs (not to mention house-made soy sauce, vinegars and fish sauce), was given free reign at Loafers to get as funky as he liked.
No condiment is too small for serious attention; house-made mustard and pickles grace the Cuban-like roasted pork sandwich, and house-smoked beets are piled high with sauerkraut and creamy Thousand Island dressing. Even the rotating nut butter and jam sandwich is taken seriously. Wilson and crew roast and grind the nuts, cook down the berries and churn that creamy butter.

Romantic slow food notions could easily stall when confronted with labor-intensive reality, but not at Loafers. “The work really brings us joy,” Wilson said. “(We have a) great excitement and love for these transformations that happen under our watch. … They’re little science experiments that taste good.”

Union Loafers is waiting on a liquor license to extend service into evening hours and debut a bread-centric bar menu. We’re confident it, too, will be worth the wait.

-photo by Carmen Troesser

Hit List: 5 new restaurants you must try this month

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2015

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1. Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery: 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111,
unionloafers.com

After years of planning, renovating and baking, Ted Wilson and Sean Netzer have opened the highly anticipated Union Loafers in Botanical Heights. The cafe and bakery serves a small, rotating lunch menu of sandwiches, soups and salads along with artisanal loaves. Bite into the roasted pork sandwich, their take on a Cuban made with roast pork, country ham, Gruyere and house-made pickles piled high on Loafers’ ciabatta with house-made mustard and mayonnaise. Or try the smoked beet sandwich, also on ciabatta, which marries ruby sliced beets with Emmenthal cheese, hard-boiled egg, house-fermented sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. The real dark horse is a delectable nut butter and house-made jam sandwich (almond butter and raspberry jam during our visit) on buttered Light & Mild country loaf; it’s a childhood staple all grown up. Go green with a Little Gem Salad tossed with house buttermilk dressing, pickled shallots, fine herbs and sourdough breadcrumbs, and don’t forget to pick up a full or half-loaf on your way out to savor artisanal bread all week long.

 

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2. Retreat Gastropub: 2 N. Sarah St., St. Louis, 314.261.4497, retreatgastropub.com

Lace up your boots and hike over to Retreat Gastropub in the Central West End for elevated pub food. Grab a seat at the concrete bar or cedar tables and benches lining the interior and tuck in to the substantial poutine with fried fingerling potatoes and cheese curds bathed in a rich mushroom demi-glace. Though you may want to inhale all the gravy-soaked goodness, leave room for the Farmhouse Burger. Two smashed beef patties topped with house-made cheese sauce, candied bacon and a sunny egg, served on an English muffin-like bun from Companion. Be sure to grab a drink at the bar, which serves up a creative cocktail menu embroidered with house-made tinctures and shrubs. You can’t go wrong with the Fort Collins, a lively concoction of Bulldog gin, grapefruit and lemon juices, Amaro Averna, IPA syrup, a black pepper tincture and house vermouth.

 

3. Tai Ke: 8604 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.801.8894

You don’t have to be an expert on Taiwanese cuisine to enjoy an authentic meal at Tai Ke. Start with an array of small plates, which are billed as side dishes and Taiwanese snacks. We swooned over the downy bao bun that holds a sliver of flavorful pork belly, and we devoured the link of red sausage on a curved bed of sticky rice that looks like a Taiwanese hot dog. Tai Ke also handles beef with aplomb – it’s incredibly tender in both the beef noodle soup (where you can cut your meat with a spoon), and spiced up with generous hits of black pepper in the sizzling beef entree over rice.

 

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4. Robata of Maplewood: 7260 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9595, robatamaplewood.com

Robata is the first of several anticipated ramen restaurants to open its doors in the St. Louis area. But before you slurp, peruse the numerous yakitori options and share the grilled shishito peppers, pork belly or bacon-wrapped enoki mushrooms, all skewered and grilled to order. An array of sushi is available, too (Robata’s owners ran the now-shuttered Sekisui). The main event, though, is the ramen, which can be customized with a variety of noodle choices, broths and garnishes. We sunk our spoons into regular-cut noodles swimming in tonkotsu-style ramen, featuring rich pork broth topped with roast pork, green onions, a boiled egg, bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, pickled ginger and wood-ear mushrooms.

 

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5. Byrd & Barrel: 3422 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.875.9998, Facebook: Byrd & Barrel

Byrd & Barrel has come home to roost on Jefferson Avenue. This new South City eatery serves up pressure-fried chicken and indulgent fare. Choose from one of 50 canned beers and start your meal with the South Side Poutine: house-made tater tots coated in shreds of smoked chicken, mellow cheese curds and a choice of smoked mushroom or chicken gravy. Order a few juicy wings to share, but save room for the over-the-top Mother Clucker sandwich that piles a fried boneless thigh with caramelized onions, spicy pepper jelly, house-made Provel “Cheez-whiz” and Red Hot Riplets. If you manage to save room for a side, don’t miss the creamy Provel mac-n-cheese.

 

-photos by Michelle Volansky and Meera Nagarajan

First Look: Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery in Botanical Heights

Thursday, October 1st, 2015

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After years of planning, renovating and baking, Ted Wilson and Sean Netzer quietly opened Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery yesterday, Sept. 30, at 1629 Tower Grove Ave., in Botanical Heights. As The Scoop reported in June 2012 and July 2013, this highly anticipated bakery will turn out naturally leavened, hearth-baked breads. The small team at Union Loafers includes Brian Lagerstrom, formerly of Niche and a member of the Sauce Ones to Watch class of 2015.

Union Loafers serves up a lunch menu of sandwiches, open-faced tartines, soups and salads. “Everything’s made from scratch. Especially the bread,” Wilson said, and he means everything – including pickles, mayonnaise, jams and even butter, all made from Missouri dairy. “The only thing we’re not doing is curing meat – yet.”

After the grand opening this Sunday, Oct. 4, drop in for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. or buy a loaf of fresh bread from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. (or until supply runs out) Tuesdays through Sundays. Union Loafers is currently waiting on a liquor license, but Wilson hopes to stock a bar with a selection of beer, wine and whiskey.

 

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-photos by Meera Nagarajan

 

 

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