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Oct 22, 2017
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Posts Tagged ‘veal’

By the Book: Scaloppine di Vitello al Marsala with Insalata di Arance

Tuesday, November 26th, 2013

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Sicily: the largest island in the Mediterranean, the deflated soccer ball that Italy’s boot is kicking, the home to perhaps the hottest region for wine, and the latest subject of Phaidon Press. For me, what makes Sicilian cooking so interesting is that it isn’t the typical cuisine one might expect coming from an island off the coast of Italy. In fact, it isn’t very Italian at all. Based on Sicily’s location in the middle of the Mediterranean, the island was conquered throughout history time and time again. Consequently, Sicily’s cuisine has been influenced by the Greeks, Romans, Carthaginians, Arabs, Normans, Spaniards and so on … As the cookbook states, Sicily truly is “the original fusion cuisine.”

 

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I chose the citrus and fennel salad because it looked beautiful in its photo. I chose the veal Marsala based on the amount of butter the recipe called for; I knew it would taste ridiculously decadent. I was right on both counts.

 

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The recipe for the fennel salad seemed so weird – one of those combos that I figured would taste probably taste good, but I never would have thought of on my own. The salad was quick to put together, and although the flavors were powerful, the salad itself was light, which complemented the heaviness of the veal.

 

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The veal was almost too rich for my tastes. Almost. Perhaps if I ordered it in a restaurant, I wouldn’t have thought twice about how it was prepared. But since I made it, it was hard to erase the image of the meat boiling in butter. The same idea goes for fried chicken – I would rather just eat it, not cook it. Although the veal melted in my mouth, it was so buttery that just one or two medallions seemed like enough, coupled with some salad and wine, of course.

 

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Insalata di Arance
Preparation time: 30 minutes
8 servings

For the dressing:
5 Tbsp. olive oil
Juice of half a lemon, strained
2 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
Fennel fronds from 3 to 4 fennel bulbs
1 tsp. fennel seeds (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the salad:
3 to 4 fennel bulbs, thinly sliced, fronds reserved
8 oranges
1 cup roasted olives

• First make the dressing. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, fennel fronds and fennel seeds, if using, in a bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
• Cut off the peel from the oranges, removing all traces of bitter white pith. Cut the flesh into rounds, put them into a large bowl and add the fennel and olives.
• Drizzle the dressing over the salad, mix well and serve immediately.

Scaloppine di Vitello al Marsala (veal scallops with marsala)
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
4 servings

1 lb. 2-oz. veal scallops
All-purpose flour, for dusting
3 oz. (6 Tbsp.) butter
Salt
14 oz. (1½ cups) dry Marsala
2 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley, to serve

• Dust the veal with flour, shaking off the excess.
• Melt the butter in a large pan and heat until it turns hazel in color.
• Add the veal, in batches if necessary, and cook over high heat for 5 minutes on each side.
• Season to taste with salt, reduce the heat to low and cook for a few minutes more, then remove the veal from the pan and set aside on a plate in a warm place.
• Scrape up the sediment from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, then pour in the Marsala, stir well and cook until reduced. Spoon the sauce over the veal, garnish with the parsley and serve.

Reprinted with permission from Phaidon Press

Tell us about your favorite lettuce-less salad in the comments section below for a chance to win a copy of Sicily. We’ll announce the winner in next week’s By the Book column.

And now, we’d like to congratulate Stacie, whose comment on last week’s By the Book column has won her a copy of Lidia’s Commonsense Italian Kitchen. Stacie, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew!

 

 

By the Book: Bertrand Auboyneau’s Veal Chop in a Creamed Morel Sauce

Tuesday, April 23rd, 2013



Out of Sauce’s stack of French cookbooks , I chose French Bistro by Bertrand Auboyneau because I don’t have a lot of experience cooking French cuisine, and this cover, compared to some of the others, looked inviting. There’s something about a red bistro table that says uncomplicated.

But like the age-old adage, don’t judge a book by its cover. When I started flipping through the pages, filled with gorgeously plated, rich French cuisine, I realized that while the recipes, themselves, didn’t sound all that difficult, obtaining the ingredients was going to be another story. I know I can find beef tongue, monkfish, mullet and pigeon if I look hard enough – but I didn’t want preparing dinner to turn into a week-long scavenger hunt, so I opted for the most familiar-sounding recipe: veal chop served with a creamed morel sauce.

The recipe’s first step was to rehydrate the morels the day before making the veal, but I reasoned, why do that when I can just buy the morels fresh? After all, I had, coincidentally, chosen this recipe smack dab in the middle of morel season. However, not only are wild morels tough to find (Unless you’re Madame Charcuterie, ahem, who likes to blow up Sauce’s Instagram feed with photos of morels but refuses to help a sister out and disclose the location.), fresh morels are also hard to find at the grocery store. I eventually found the right dried morels at Whole Foods, and boy, oh boy, now I know what my next get-rich-quick scheme is going to be: professional morel forager.

The recipe called for three and a half ounces of dried morels, but I believe it should be three and a half ounces of rehydrated morels, since an entire bag of them dried (running at a whopping $20 a bag) only weighed one ounce.

The veal was also, surprisingly, a bit difficult to find, but after making a few calls, I finally located some at Straub’s.

Once I had my ingredients together, the cooking part took no time at all. Literally in 10 minutes, I had prepared a fantastic French meal. I also cooked up some garlicky, rosemary mashed potatoes too, just in case the massive amount of butter and cream I already used with the cream sauce didn’t make me feel fat enough.

Veal Chop in a Creamed Morel Sauce
Serves 4

4 14-oz. (400g.) bone-in veal chops
3½ oz. (100g.) dried morels
2/3 cup (150 ml) milk
7 Tbsp. (100g.) butter, divided
2 shallots, chopped
¾ cup (200 ml) heavy or double cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Freshly ground nutmeg

• A day ahead, rehydrate the morels by soaking them in a scant ¼ cup of milk. Cover and place in the refrigerator overnight.
• To prepare the meat, brown the veal chops in a skillet with half the butter for 5 to 6 minutes on each side. Set aside in a warm place.
• In a separate sauce pan, fry the shallots until lightly browned in the remaining butter. Stir in the cream, and cook for 5 more minutes.
• Add the morels to the sauce, and simmer over low heat for another 5 minutes.
• Return the veal chops to the skillet, and cook for 2 to 5 minutes, depending on desired doneness. Remove the chops when cooked to satisfaction, and arrange on plates.
• Reduce the sauce if necessary, and adjust seasoning. Don’t forget to add a little ground nutmeg just before serving.

Reprinted with permission from Flammarion Press.

What’s your favorite spring vegetable and how do you like to use it the most? Tell us in the comments section below for a chance to win a copy French Bistro. We’ll announce the winner in next week’s By the Book column.

And now, we’d like to congratulate Brandy, whose comment on last week’s By the Book has won her a copy of French Brasserie Cookbook. Brandy, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew. 

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