Preparation

• Pour 2 cups of the poultry stock into a small saucepan. Bring the stock to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to low and add the turkey neck and giblets – except for the liver. Cover the pan and simmer 1 1/2 to 2 hours until the giblets are cooked through and quite tender. Add the liver in the last 10 minutes of cooking.

• Drain and discard the broth. Pick the meat off the neck and finely chop it along with the cooked giblets and liver. Set aside.

• Once your bird has finished cooking, pull it – and the rack it sits on – out of the pan. Pour the poultry drippings through a sieve into a tall, clear container or fat separator.

• Place the roasting pan over two burners on medium-high heat. Stir until the residual drippings and turkey bits are richly caramelized, if they are not already, and then gradually add 1 cup hot poultry stock. Stir vigorously to remove the caramelized bits from the bottom of the pan and to distribute their flavor throughout the stock. (This process is known as deglazing.) Continue to cook a few minutes, stirring constantly.

• Pour the deglazed mixture through the sieve into the same container that holds the drippings and discard any solid matter in the sieve.

• Let the mixture sit a few minutes until the fat rises to the top. Skim off the fat, reserving about 5 tablespoons for the next step. (If using a fat separator, simply pour off the defatted broth.) Set the broth aside.

• Place the reserved turkey fat (or butter) in a medium (2-quart) non-reactive saucepan over medium to medium-high heat. When the fat is hot, gradually whisk in the flour to create a roux. Whisking constantly, cook the roux until it is a pale gold color, about 2 to 3 minutes.

• Measure out 3 cups of the defatted broth. (Should you come up short, use additional poultry stock to make up the difference.) Gradually add the broth to the roux in 1-cup increments, whisking constantly until the gravy is completely smooth and thickened before adding the next increment.

• Once all the liquid has been added, stir in the reserved giblets. Gently boil the gravy until the desired thickness is achieved. (I like to cook mine another 20 to 30 minutes not only to give it body, but also to extract the full flavor of the giblets.) You can accelerate the thickening process by adding a bit of flour or cornstarch mixed with water, but be wary of adding too much starch, as it can make the gravy pasty.

• Add the chopped thyme and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or let the gravy cool slightly to thicken even further.

A Port, Mushroom and Onion Variation

• Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a large non-reactive skillet. Sauté 1 small diced yellow onion over medium heat until it’s softened and lightly browned.

• Add 6 to 8 ounces sliced crimini mushrooms and cook until they have exuded all their moisture, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain off any excess liquid and fat and set the vegetables aside.

• Deglaze the turkey pan with 1/2 cup tawny port and 1/2 cup poultry stock and proceed as directed above.

• Once the gravy has finished cooking, stir in the reserved onions and mushrooms along with the thyme. For added richness, cool the gravy slightly and whisk in 2 tablespoons sour cream. Season to taste.