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Feb 18, 2018
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Dine on a Dime
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South City sophisticate
By S.C. Truckey ē Photo by Jonathan S. Pollack
Posted On: 02/01/2009   

Imagine yourself in a comfortable, low-lit booth, silverware sitting in a Mason jar on the table, with ammo hanging near the rows of liquor and New Order playing on the jukebox. A two-decades-old poster on the wall announces former mayor Vince Schoemehlís next run for office, and the neon in the window advertises Pabst, the new young personís drink of choice. And while itís obvious youíre not in a chic bistro, you are eating curried brussels sprouts, a salad topped with candied sunflower seeds and a BLT stuffed with basil.

The unassuming sophistication of The Bleeding Deacon is such that you never feel out of place. Want a hot dog? Itís got íem. Hummus? Done. Chicken salad? Check. But none of these items are prepared the way youíd think a grunge-ish bar in south St. Louis would prepare them.

The side dishes, offered in two portion sizes, are the perfect starter for a visit to The Deacon. Thereís the lemon-thyme hummus, heavy on the garlic with the right amount of lemon and thyme, thatís kicky and creamy, topped with scallions and paprika, and served with soft, warm pita bread.

Also offered is the spicy coleslaw, unexpectedly made with brussels sprouts; theyíre chopped and mixed with a zesty spice blend. Itís perfect for those who, like me, dislike the creamy or vinegar sort and prefer something a little bit out-of-the-box.
Then thereís the smoked mashers, potatoes intensely smoked and not whipped but mashed, so as to leave you feeling like youíve eaten something substantial. Flavored with scallions (seems to be a trend here) and a pat of real butter, itís another of The Deaconís unexpected twists on a familiar dish.

The Public House Salad, made with fresh greens Ė no iceberg! Ė is offered with candied sunflower seeds, Gorgonzola and your choice of house-made dressing, of which the choices are many. Itís also topped with bean sprouts, making this already fresh salad even fresher.

The Boudin veggie burger, made with white beans and rice, is moist and savory. Sage is the dominant flavor here, giving the burger a Thanksgiving-stuffing taste, but itís nicely balanced by the Creole rťmoulade, tomato, lettuce and onion.

Iím typically wary of meatloaf, but The Deaconís version of the dish, touted as its specialty, is unreal. This slab of homemade goodness isnít overly dense, and is perfectly spiced and blended. Itís topped with tender haricots verts and a dark bourbon ketchup, then served open-faced on a toasted wheat roll. All the flavor is well-distributed till the last bite.

The charbroiled chicken sandwich, on the other hand, isnít as successful. Itís piled high (almost too high) with that delicious spicy coleslaw and sprinkled with anise, but the one thin slice of multigrain bread and the dry boneless breast are disappointing. The sandwich also lacks the flavor that the other menu options offer. The locally cured salami, Dijon and sprouts on the hot salami sandwich deliver on the flavor front, but overall fall short with a skimpy amount of red peppers and mozzarella cheese.

Itís obvious that each dish has been carefully constructed to offer patrons top-notch affordable food in a relaxed setting. Whether mashed with jicama, topped with scallions or mellowed out with some sprouts, The Bleeding Deaconís offerings add a welcome twist to the world of bar food.

Filling Up For $20 or Less
Dine-In-Ability: The the dark and slightly punky vibe, attentive service and great jukebox are half the experience, so dine in. Fair warning: The room gets smokier the later you go, but it is well-ventilated.
Try It, You'll Like It: The Curly Dog, complete with charbroiled onions, barbecue sauce and pickles.
Feast or Famine: With its inventive twists on American homestyle cooking Ė including a veggie burger Ė thereís something for everyone.
Where: The Bleeding Deacon, 4123 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.772.1813
When: Mon. to Sat. Ė noon to 11 p.m. (Bar till 1:30 a.m.), Sun. Ė noon to 11 p.m. (Bar till midnight)

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DATE: 05/12/2009 07:52PM    POSTED BY: PhishingPhreak
Let me google that for you: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=The+Bleeding+Deacon+St.+Louis But I agree, where's the info????
DATE: 03/20/2009 11:52AM    POSTED BY: LAMZNB
This place is on Chippewa, across from QT at Gravois and Chippewa. I heard its really good, going to try it out tonight.
DATE: 02/28/2009 05:30PM    POSTED BY: krashing111
I'm guessing this place is in South City somewhere? Anybody know where?
DATE: 02/26/2009 10:54AM    POSTED BY: ambendalosa
Agree with dwward. These articles/reviews are great, but why isn't the restaurant's name, address, phone number and/or website listed somewhere that's easily identifiable (on your old website format, it was always listed to the side)??? The way this is written takes several attempts to even figure out what restaurant you're talking about. And if I want to actually visit the restaurant, I have to look up the address somewhere else.
DATE: 02/15/2009 09:00PM    POSTED BY: abcroth
If your going to do a small menu everything should be good. The wings were under cooked and slimy, and the meatloaf was too strongly seasoned and dry. Whats up with not carrying Bud, some kind of pretentious statement, but they carry miller lite and Stag? If your going to try and move up the scale, you need to cover the basics. Ill miss the Billy Goat.
DATE: 02/04/2009 07:19PM    POSTED BY: dwward
An address would be really helpful.

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