At I Fratellini, Simplicity Shines

I’m quite smitten with the dining room at I Fratellini. Stylish and sophisticated, cozy and romantic, no detail seems to have been overlooked, from the black and gold façade outside to the lighting fixtures glowing and warm to the rose-adorned, marble-topped tables. It’s really lovely. And combined with a menu of Italian dishes and gracious, attentive service, it’s no wonder the place was spilling over with regulars on a rainy and cold Tuesday night. Zoë Robinson and her longtime chef Ny Vongsaly, both also of Bobo Noodle House, opened I Fratellini in 2001. The small restaurant is clearly a neighborhood favorite: During my visits, it seemed that practically everyone knew someone at a neighboring table or across the room. The menu is reflective of the Italian meal structure – antipasti followed by pastas and risottos, then meat and fish. But I Fratellini certainly isn’t your typical mom and pop pasta and red sauce restaurant; the food here is lighter, fresher and more current. Take, for example, some of the antipasti. The Caprini – slices of warmed goat cheese in shimmering, golden olive oil; capers; sun-dried tomatoes; and cloves of soft, mellow garlic served with thick and chewy slices of grilled bread – was beautiful to look at and astoundingly good in its simplicity. An arugula salad with toasted pine nuts and Parmigiano-Reggiano was nice and basic: fresh greens with peppery bite, a light dousing of vinaigrette, and the crunch and salt from toasted nuts and aged cheese. Crispy polenta with a sauté of wild mushrooms offered two large triangles of polenta that were golden and lightly crisped on the outside and supple at their core. A hefty serving of tender, meaty mushrooms with their accompanying cooking liquid was seasoned nicely and had a wonderful aroma – a great vegetarian dish to start a meal. Scallops, seared a lovely dark caramel, sat on rounds of pancetta in a pool of citrus brown butter like frogs on a lily pad. The scallops had a silky interior, and the pancetta had a nice chewy bite. The brown butter could have used more citrus and salt, but a garnish of chiffonade of basil and a big slice of lemon brightened the flavors and the presentation. The pasta and risotto section of the menu offered several stuffed pastas; several long, broad pastas; and a risotto. The sausage lasagna, a belt-busting portion of layered pasta, marinara, sausage and cheese with a large ratio of meat and sauce to pasta, was an oozing, delicious mess. The lobster ravioli in a flavorful seafood broth with wilted spinach offered large rounds of thick pasta enveloping a smooth filling with nuggets of lobster meat here and there; the spinach was particularly good, spicy with lots of garlic. Among the piatti del giorno, rack of lamb in an herb-mustard glaze with escalloped potatoes was very good. The lamb was tender, redolent of marrow, and the potatoes were wonderfully rich and gooey. If ever there was an entrée intended for those watching their figure or with dietary restrictions, the poached halibut on parsnip purée with a sweet red wine and onion jam would seem to be it. Each of the components tasted good on its own in a very clean and unadulterated way, but they just didn’t seem to go together or entice my senses. While it’s commendable that a chef is aware of the clientele’s wants and needs, this dish made me yearn for butter and oil. On the sweeter side, a generous slice of chocolate torta will satiate any chocoholic’s itch with its rich and fluffy mousse between layers of tender cake and topped with a glossy ganache. Vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso is perhaps the perfect dessert. First you experience the contrast of hot and cold, then the melding and melting of the strong espresso and mild vanilla into the consistency of a smooth, thick milkshake. It’s not too heavy or sweet, and offers a little post-dinner pick-me-up. The wine list is concise and has six by-the-glass offerings, plus a selection of dessert wines and liqueurs; servers are helpful with recommendations. I Fratellini nudges closer to the pricey side of casual dining, but when you’re surrounded by such elegant comfort while eating well-prepared Italian food, it’s worth every penny. BACK FOR SECONDS Don’t-miss dish: Caprini, crispy polenta with wild mushrooms, sausage lasagna. Vibe: The casually elegant atmosphere draws a tony Clayton crowd. Entrée prices: $18 to $24 Where: I Fratellini, 7624 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.7901 When: Lunch: Mon. to Fri. – 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. to Thu. – 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Fri. to Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m.