Review: Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood in St. Louis

GUY’S PERSPECTIVE

Heady times in The STL in 1980. On June 9, August “Gussie” Busch Jr., in his 27th year as St. Louis Cardinals owner, hired Whitey Herzog as the team’s manager. Gussie and Whitey liked baseball and cold beer and, for the next decade, saw huge success. On Sept. 18, AC/DC played to a packed Kiel Opera House in support of the “Back in Black” album. AC/DC liked loud power chords and cold beer, and, for the next decade, saw huge KSHE 95 success.

Twenty-six years later, at the new, dual-themed Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood, Gussie, Whitey and AC/DC still bring baseball, power chords and cold beer.

Among the rare sports memorabilia on the walls of Shannon’s bar is perhaps the coolest STL sports picture in the history of me – a shot of Whitey and Gussie post-game. Gussie, old as heck, is dressed in all red: red blazer, red shirt, red cowboy hat. Whitey’s too-tight polyester uniform is covered by a classic red satin Cardinals jacket. Both men are tipping back, as the restaurant’s namesake would say, “cold, frosty ones.” In all likelihood, with a CNN microphone visible in the shot, Gussie and Whitey are celebrating the Cards’ 1982 World Series win. In that way, for all its sparkling new furniture and feel, it’s impossible to escape the past at Shannon’s.

If you’re a sports fan, you won’t care about anything inside Shannon’s other than said decades-spanning memorabilia, Budweiser and the Redbirds on the plentiful televisions. I’ve found the restaurant bar an incredible place to watch the game because the bar stools are nearly empty at game time. (Don’t spoil it for me by telling all your friends, rube.)

Around the bar, people cut into porterhouses atop white linen. At the bar, sip Bud with an uninhibited view of the Cards game, while the attentive staff serves a seemingly bottomless plate of calamari. A set change comes post-game. The masses (a mix of The Ritz and Washington Avenue crowds) ruin your Bud-and-Cards calm, filling every open space, crowding Gussie and Whitey, who are still tipping back.

Among the countless drunken fans at The Outfield, the game-day-only outside bar, is perhaps the most obnoxious sound system ever. The Outfield is a mammoth, bare-bones dance club between the restaurant and the dirt that was Busch Stadium II.

With Busch III looming in clear view, sports are a surprising afterthought. While most dance clubs exclusively choose the latest hip-hop beats, Outfield DJs know Cardinal Nation, so they often rock (at no fewer than 110 decibels, rendering conversation impossible) with AC/DC, Aerosmith and other classics that will top KSHE’s Rock ’n’ Roll 500.

Opening buzz for The Outfield promised a more upscale crowd than Paddy-O’s and Al Hrabosky’s Ballpark Saloon but, so far, that hasn’t been true. There are the goateed hoosiers with multiple cell phones on the belts of their jeans shorts. There are the half-but-legally-clothed strippers making scenes. There are the 21-ish girls singing and dancing to “You Shook Me All Night Long.”

Pregame, the crowd is energetic. Game time, the crowd is nonexistent. Post-game, the crowd is just drunk. Maybe that’s why, 26 years later, “Back in Black” still flies. Cardinal Nation, I love you.

The straight 411 …
Inside: cold, frosty ones to Gussie and Whitey. Outside: cold, frosty ones to AC/DC.

GAL’S PERSPECTIVE

First off, what St. Louisan can not love Mike Shannon? Anyone who can parlay a career in baseball into a lifetime of going to games, drinking Anheuser-Busch products and giving baseball commentary to the entire St. Louis area while getting paid for it is one smart individual. I wish I could set up a situation like that for myself, only it would most likely involve sitting on a beer terrace and slurring details of the latest accessories by Coach. But I digress.

Overall, the inside of Mike Shannon’s is pretty much what you would expect, a real classy sports bar and a shrine to the baseball great. If you think “classy sports bar” is an oxymoron, take note: Around happy hour on a Tuesday, the scene at the bar was all business. A group of about 10 men sporting power ties mingled and cut deals while downing cocktails. For ladies looking to rope a guy in a great suit, this is your spot. There were about 30 girls and 70 guys, and most of the men were good-looking and at least appeared to be successful. Now, far be it from me to suggest you girls get your shovels and start digging, but Shannon’s appeared to be a gold mine of successful hotties.

The food and drink at Shannon’s seemed a little overpriced, but the food, at least the appetizers, was notable and the beer was cold. The main dining room features a large menu mostly consisting of red meat and seafood. We feasted on toasted ravioli and calamari and were happy with the quality and quantities brought steaming hot to our table. You can also enjoy your dinner with the man himself. Shannon broadcasts live from the restaurant after every Friday night home game. This entertainment gem alone makes up for the hefty food and drink prices.

The Outfield, a large outdoor patio open only on game days, offers an amazing view of the stadium. It’s hard to do anything but stare in awe at the beauty that is the new home of the Cardinals. (I may be a little more apt to stare as I have yet to cough up the dough to buy myself a ticket inside the new digs.) Hopefully the planned Ballpark Village won’t obstruct the view across Walnut Street too much.

If you are ticketless, a large bar filled with friendly barkeeps sports a ton of TVs for enjoying the game. It also boasts several large built-in heaters for the nights that seem a little chilly for throwing back a cold one outdoors. There are several tables if you wish to sit and a large area if you feel more inclined to graze and socialize with the crowd of like-minded sports fans. A DJ usually provides music to get you psyched for the game or to keep the good times rolling after it. You can also grab a quick bite at the tailgate grill to kill off those pregame hunger pangs.

I would suggest, however, that you bring a wad of cash with you if you want to partake in a few brewskis at The Outfield, because credit cards are discouraged.

The straight 411 …
Shannon’s provides everything you need to enjoy either a night of fine dining or a night of baseball-fueled boozing.