Review: Coastal Bistro and Bar in Clayton

Editor's Note: Coastal Bistro & Bar has closed.

Coastal Bistro and Bar, 14 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.932.7377, coastalbistro.blogspot.com

I’ve said it before: For being stuck smack in the middle of the landlocked Midwest, we do pretty well when it comes to acquiring fresh fish and seafood. Not great like, say, Baltimore, Boston or Seattle, but when restaurants can arrange for seafood to arrive a day after being pulled from the sea, there’s little to complain about.

A prime example of just how fresh fish can be once it arrives on that Midwestern plate is Coastal Bistro and Bar – the newly re-branded, refurbished, re-concepted restaurant previously known as Mosaic Bistro Market. Both are owned by Frank and Ellen Schmitz – two of the three Schmitz siblings who are operating a local mini restaurant empire. Frank owns Barcelona and Bocci Bar, both on the same block as Coastal, while Claus Schmitz has the family of Mosaic restaurants around town.

Evidently, having so many restaurants in the family beginning with “Mosaic” was becoming confusing. And the “market” part was more name than real gourmet bazaar. The new space seems sleeker and more modern, with organic touches like orange-red walls and dark wood dining chairs now mixed in with the chairs outfitted in white upholstery and gold rings held over from the market. The large, rustic farm table is still there, too – perfect for groups of boisterous diners slurping oysters and clinking wine glasses. The banquette along the north wall now sports dividers between the tables where smaller groups and couples cluster. And where the market section once housed a few jars of fancy jams, cookbooks and other gourmet items, diners sit cozily in the corner over small plates and bottles of wine.

Sometime before you order, your server will deliver a white paper sack with two fresh, hot, cheesy biscuits inside. This is a good time to issue a caveat: Eat them and be happy, but don’t order more. You won’t be able to stop, and you have oysters on the way.

Michel de Montaigne compared them to violets. James Beard called them “one of the supreme delights that nature has bestowed on man.” So for those landlocked souls whose knowledge of the bivalves is minimal (raises hand), Coastal’s raw bar is a good place to sample several of the brackish varieties. Like developing and improving a palate for wine, you need to taste a lot of oysters in order to distinguish the differences. While the exact variety depends on supply, count on a suitable daily selection from the West, East and Gulf Coasts here. Instead of the creamier, smaller West Coasters or the earthy, muddy taste of the Gulf Coast oysters, I settled on the big, meaty East Coast variety of the night, preferring their mild taste and bracing brininess. A choice of sauces ranged from horseradish to passion-fruit mignonette to harissa aioli, but a simple squeeze of lemon was really all I needed. That, and a nice glass of crisp, oyster-friendly white wine, which Coastal has plenty of.

After savoring a few (dozen) half shells, our attention turned to the broader menu, which touts a bevy of fresh fish dishes as well as options for non-fish eaters like chicken and dumplings, beef short ribs, beef filet, and an exquisite pork loin (more on this later). Some would deem the pan-roasted trout, cooked simply and presented atop a bed of lemon-scented white beans and potatoes, boring. I call it sublime, with a whisper of citrus complementing the fish and the just-right al dente beans pairing perfectly with the trout’s meatiness. The kitchen, though, was shy about the potatoes: Only two halved fingerlings were found among the mix. I suspect the chunk of perfectly seared halibut I had was as fresh, clean-tasting and succulent as one would find on either coast. But the douse of sage-brown butter sauce atop it was too salty, and the fricassee of yams, mushrooms and unctuous pork belly – while quite savory – seemed more sautéed than the stewed preparation required of true fricassee.

While the regular menu is broad enough to keep things interesting, the prix fixe “coastal experience menu” option – three courses for $28, plus $5 for a glass of house wine – isn’t a bad way to get acquainted with the new digs either. A first course of house-smoked trout was fleshier and more raw than anticipated but satisfying nonetheless with a mild, slightly smoky flavor. The salmon, about 4-ounces served on a bed of buttermilk-whipped potatoes and braised greens, had a good, hard sear with a juicy, tender interior; this was indeed a very fresh cut of fish. While the salmon serving was suitable, we wanted more of those tender greens (because, well, we like a lot of greens) and creamy-smooth, buttery-rich potatoes. Only one dessert was offered with the deal: chocolate lava cake with caramel and a row of raspberries. It was good, but it’s hard to mess up lava cake, or impress with it.

On another visit, we opted for the sage-roasted pork loin prix fixe, a fitting comfort-food prelude to colder weather. The five thick slices of pork, cooked medium-rare and oozing with juices, were light on the sage but had a nice char and a tasty herbaceous rub that married well with the chunky apple-pepper chutney underneath. Smashed yams only punctuated the fall flavors of the dish. This time around, though, there were more wine and dessert options available on the prix fixe, such as a lighter-than-normal brioche bread pudding. Served in a mini casserole pot with candied pistachios, the standout Amaretto-spiked sauce caused an excited flurry of spoons.

Service is informed and attentive while little touches like sealed jars of salt and pepper on the table are charming. The vibe is casual and relaxed, with wine served in stemless glasses and a lively soundtrack of eclectic Latin and other world-beat music filtering throughout. While Coastal may not be breaking any new ground, its emphasis on fresh fish and seafood, low-key setting and friendly service makes for stress-free dining ideal for escaping the howling winds and lowly boredom of winter. As I overheard at one large table: “This is the most relaxing meal I’ve had.”

Where
Coastal Bistro and Bar, 14 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.932.7377, coastalbistro.blogspot.com

When
Mon. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Don’t Miss Dishes
Oysters, of course; pork loin; any fresh fish that catches your fancy.

Vibe
Casual, relaxed, comfortable.

Entrée Prices
$16 to $29. Half-dozen oysters: $8 to $16