Review: Cafe Brasil in St. Louis

Either the world is closing in on St. Louis, or St. Louis is expanding to meet the world. Whichever the case, it's a mighty plus for St. Louis diners.

Cafe Brasil, a two dozen-seat storefront, gives us a second Brazilian restaurant, and another charming one. Jorge Carvalho is the owner-chef of the establishment, located at the corner of McKnight Road and Manchester Boulevard, the intersection where McKnight becomes Rock Hill Road, and a couple of recent visits provided meals in the Brazilian style, with Portuguese wine, affable service and a wide range of flavors.

The colors of Brazil, an aura of soccer and the feeling of the tropics fill the small room, where desserts fill a cold case in full view of the dining room, and Carvalho himself often can be glimpsed as he bustles around in the small kitchen. The menu offers eight entrees and a note pointing out that the server can provide information on appetizers and desserts, while a chalkboard displays a handful of daily specials. The entrees on our visits included three based on seafood, two with chicken, a top sirloin, and a vegetarian entree, plus feijoada, the Brazilian national dish.

Feijoada is a tangy, lightly spiced stew of black beans, cooked with chunks of beef and bacon and sausage, and it's delicious, though we would have been happier with a second chunk of beef and a third piece of sausage.

It's dark and deeply flavored and rich, very satisfying, and it is served with rice, collard greens, farofa (yucca flour) and a slice of orange for extra color and a bit more flavor. The greens are julienned and cooked less than in most American kitchens, giving it some extra flavor and resistance to the tooth; excellent in every respect. The rice was just right to absorb the sauce, and the beans were perfectly cooked, not mushy and not bullet-like, but at the perfect spot in between. The farofa, from the root of the manioc, or yucca, has a slight crunch, bringing a lovely texture.

A choice of chicken, cheese or beef empanadas was an appetizer, and they were very tasty, though not empanadas as Americans know them, and not truly in puff pastry as the waiter described them. Still, they were fresh, crispy and not at all greasy, and the chicken, our favorite on several visits, remained moist and flavorful. A splendid touch.

Salads accompany all entrees, a generous serving of nicely dressed greens, though the presence of iceberg lettuce was a bother. The dressing had a hint of sweetness, but was very pleasant.

Both shrimp entrees -- camerao ao molho branco and bobo de camerao -- were highly successful. The former uses shrimp sauteed in olive oil and garlic, then finishes the dish in a white wine cream sauce. Very tasty, with a hint of garlic in the mouth and firm, tasty shrimp that had been cooked to the proper point. The latter involves shrimp -- again properly sauteed -- in a smooth yucca sauce, with the farofa bolstered by some herbs for a pleasing tang. Both dishes were accompanied by rice and vegetables.

Vaca Atolada, sirloin of beef with yucca and herbs, was much like a pot roast, but not one as prepared in an American kitchen. The meat was lean and tangy, and blended with pleasing spices, yucca and herbs, then served with the usual accompaniments of rice, black beans and vegetables. The beef was of superior quality.

Grilled chicken breast in a cashew gravy was similar to coconut in its added flavor and texture, slightly sweet and very rich.

Portuguese wine, like vino verde, is white and dry. It has a touch of green in its color, thus earnning its name, but is pleasantly fruity and dry. Brazilian beer and soda also are available.

The dessert selections were led by a dense, flavorful bread pudding that was on the heavy side, but with outstanding flavor. Chocolate mousse, with a hint of coffee, also was dense, to the point where Mme. Guru said it was more like a marquise, rich and with plenty of deep, dark, chocolate flavor. Coffee made a superior accompaniment, smooth and rich and with a strong coffee flavor that avoided either bitterness or sour overtones. A rich and delightful ending to the meal.

Service was pleasant, and the small surroundings of Cafe Brasil had most of the patrons talking with one another, discussing dinner and sharing opinions. All in all, a most pleasant way to spend an evening.