Review: Fifteen Steakhouse in St. Louis

Let’s get one thing straight right off the bat: All-star Jim Edmonds, the former center fielder for the Cardinals, is half-owner of the swank new downtown restaurant Fifteen. But that’s where any reference to baseball ends – which is just fine, because everything about this place is capable of standing on its own merit.

The building itself, a beautifully renovated, three-story, turn-of-the-century automobile showroom, is worth the trip. From the narrow windows offering glimpses into the busy kitchen to the dark-wood, clubby dining room with its original cranberry-red pressed-tin ceiling, you feel that all the finer points have been attended to.

But anyone with deep pockets can flash cash. And, to be sure, lots of cash was flashed.

Fortunately, all that cash has resulted in substance, starting with a whimsical amuse-bouche from chef Tim McLaughlin’s kitchen – on one visit, a bite-sized cod croquette resting atop a small mound of rice pudding punched up with chives and surrounded by crushed nuts and a mango-strawberry sauce. Desserts present even more whimsy, but more on that later. Those familiar with McLaughlin through his previous employers, Red Moon and Faust’s at the Adam’s Mark, already know his vision: Keep it real while surprising the diner with tweaks and twists on classic dishes. He calls it “interactive-style cuisine.” I call it good food.

Case in point: roasted chicken. It’s a sturdy dish we all know and love. McLaughlin accompanies his with real mashed potatoes, natch, but pairs the roasted bird with a side of mild, steamed cabbage and then smothers the whole shebang with bacon broth. Bacon broth, for crying out loud! And just to drive home how exquisite the combination is, the fragrant stuff was poured tableside. True for the cod as well: A generous portion of the slow-baked mild fish is nestled atop fresh mushrooms, topped with peppery arugula and doused with yet another broth poured by the waiter, this time a subtle Gruyère cheese broth that balanced the flavors better than the Flying Wallendas.

In fact, the servers at Fifteen enjoy pouring hot liquids in front of you. Order the onion soup and you get a bowl of naked, roasted onions with a schmear of fresh herbs before the careful server makes the soup come alive with a healthy slosh of broth. Garnished with a crispy Parmesan cracker, the soup was another example of the kitchen’s creativity with classic dishes. And rather than serving the braised short ribs with mashed potatoes – as is de rigueur – the kitchen tweaks this winter comfort dish with a bed of spiral-shaped egg noodles to support the rich-tasting, slow-cooked rib meat.

Starters were snazzed up too. The large, single, house-made ravioli stuffed with wild mushrooms was slathered with a creamy garlic-oregano sauce accented with cracked black pepper, while the toasted chorizo dumpling came sporting a thick tomato “jam.”
But at its core, Fifteen is a steak house. With five prime cuts and a bone-in pork chop to choose from, carnivores will salivate with happy anticipation, just as I did with the 10-ounce dry-aged strip. It’s my go-to steak because I feel it’s a good test of how confidently a kitchen handles the basics; screw up a good cut of beef and I won’t return. Thick, tender, flavorful and cooked exactly as ordered, this steak passed the test. Steak-eaters can choose from five interesting house-made dipping condiments designed to enhance the beef selections. I thought it a bit gimmicky (why put anything on such a great piece of meat?), but I played along and went with the black-pepper purée and the 15 steak sauce. Sure enough, the flavors did enhance a few bites, especially when followed by a sip of red wine, but overall I found myself returning to the steak’s naked essence. All four à la carte sides are worthy contenders, especially the grilled asparagus and mashed potatoes; only the mac and cheese disappointed with its penne pasta base.

You should take advantage of general manager and sommelier John McGuire’s relaxed nature and vast wine knowledge, especially since the wine list is hefty both in selection (heavy on the reds) and price (glasses start at $7 and bottles at $30).

And those desserts? During both visits I sucked down the ridiculously irresistible Dr. Seuss-like chocolate-espresso shake with Cocoa Puffs and raspberries, savoring the chocolaty liquid at the bottom of the bowl just as I did as a kid. A trio of full-sized house-made ice cream sandwiches is also noteworthy: chocolate-chunk cookies with gooey-butter cake ice cream, ginger snaps with caramel, and oatmeal cookies with pumpkin ice cream (all ice cream is from Serendipity in Webster Groves).

Fifteen is a welcome addition to this stretch of downtown. But if you want a sports bar, check out other Cardinals’ eponymously named restaurants around town.