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Oct 22, 2014
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Grains that Pop: Chefs add crunch to our favorite dishes
By Dee Ryan | Photos by Carmen Troesser
Posted On: 10/01/2014   


Once upon a time, there were many kinds of grains from faraway lands, with different names and sizes and shapes and flavors. One by one they all disappeared, and the people of the land ate mostly rice and pasta. But now, my dears, the fairy tale is renewed: You can’t wander down the aisles of a grocery store or flip through your favorite food magazine without seeing the words “ancient grains.” Quinoa, of course, has exploded in popularity among culinary enthusiasts, and is now joined by amaranth, bulgur, kamut, freekeh, sorghum and other old-time grains on grocery shelves and restaurant menus.

“You know, for a long time these grains were only eaten by hippies and vegetarians,” said Rex Hale, executive chef of The Restaurant at The Cheshire, who recalled crisping quinoa for a squash curry he prepared when he worked at Jumby Bay Island Resort in Antigua in 1993. “But finally everyone is realizing how great they are.”

Although these grains are easily prepared as a side dish or filling hot breakfast cereal, area chefs are jumping on the trend of crisping them for a little extra crunch.

“There’s so much you can do with these grains,” said Josh Charles, chef de cuisine at Elaia and Olio. “They can be ground and incorporated into cakes, popped and eaten as a snack food. They are really great to work with, and easier to find than ever.” Though the kitchen brigade at Elaia and Olio has used various grains in assorted presentations since the restaurants opened two years ago, for the fall menu Charles will feature multiple crisped grains in one texture-iffic dish: a grain and seed salad, featuring a trio of crisped sorghum, kamut and freekeh held together with Greek yogurt seasoned with the North African spice mixture ras al-hanout.

Basso’s Patrick Connolly is partial to using crisped grains as an attention grabber. “As it becomes more (popular) for diners to share dishes, chefs are given two to three forkfuls of any particular dish to make an impression, and adding that little crunch or chew to something can really catch someone’s attention,” he said. Connolly has played with crispy farro, rice, corn, lentils and quinoa in his dishes. Look for his crispy quinoa and shaved raw beet salad with dill and sheep’s milk bleu cheese on the Basso menu this fall.

One isn’t limited to savory applications, either. Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier’s Dave Owens purchases puffed quinoa, glazes it with agave and incorporates it into Bissinger’s 75-percent cocoa Quinoa Agave Crunch bar. “Combining crispy grains and chocolate is very European,” he said. “It breaks up the texture of the chocolate and is so enjoyable to eat.”
Nor are ancient grains outside the boundaries for those restricted to a gluten-free diet. Executive chef Joseph Hemp of Robust Wine Bar uses crisped grains for his vegan and gluten-free dishes. “Crispy brown rice or quinoa adds a great gluten-free crunch element to any saucy dish instead of bread crumbs,” he said.

The various applications practically trip over one another: Pop them as a snack or add them to salads or soups for some crunch. Stir them into yogurt, sprinkle them on top of a smoothie or mix them with beans and veggies for a simple, healthy meal.

Just don’t call it a comeback. Ancient grains have been here for years. Now that they’ve had a makeover, you’ve got one more way to enjoy them – happily ever after.


Elaia and Olio’s Crispy Grain and Seed Salad with Spiced Yogurt
Elaia and Olio’s Josh Charles
Makes 5

INGREDIENTS

1 cup sorghum
1 cup kamut
1 cup freekeh
Grapeseed oil, for cooking
½ cup sunflower seeds
½ cup pepitas
¼ cup white sesame seeds
¼ cup dark chia seeds
2 Tbsp. chopped preserved lemons*
¼ cup chopped chives
4 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. lemon zest
1 Tbsp. ras al-hanout*
Kosher salt to taste
1 cup mixed fresh herbs, such as cilantro, mint, basil, tarragon or dill, for garnish
Pumpkin seed oil, for garnish

PREPARATION

 Using a fine-mesh strainer, rinse the sorghum, kamut and freekeh until the water runs clear. Soak the grains in water 1 hour.
 In a saucepan, cook the grains, covered, 45 minutes using a 1½-to-1 ratio of water to grains. Spread cooked grains in a thin layer across a shallow pan and allow them to dry.
 In a large skillet over high heat, spread out and toast the grains in ½ inch of grapeseed oil, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the toasted grains to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside.
 In the same skillet over medium heat, toast the sunflower seeds, pepitas and sesame seeds separately until fragrant.
 In a large mixing bowl, combine the sorghum, kamut, freekeh, sunflower seeds, pepitas, sesame seeds and chia seeds. Add the preserved lemons, chives, apple cider vinegar and olive oil, and toss to combine. Add salt to taste and set aside.
 In another mixing bowl, whisk together the yogurt, lemon zest and the ras al-hanout and salt to taste. Divide the yogurt among 5 bowls. Top each with 1 cup of the grain salad and garnish with 3 to 4 leaves of each herb and a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil. If left undressed, salad will keep, refrigerated, up to 4 days.

* Preserved lemon and ras al-hanout are available at United Provisions, 6241 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.833.5699, unitedprovisions.com.

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