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The unlovely root
• by Pat Eby
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Consider the horseradish root. Brown. Leathery. Knobby. Closely resembling an elephant’s foot or a caveman’s club. I don’t know who first thought horseradish might be something to eat, but I’m glad he or she discovered this unlovely root.
Horseradish puts the zing in cocktail sauce, the sass in a seafood butter, and the bite in cream for ham or beef. But eating horseradish doesn’t stop with these zesty standbys.
My German grandfather raised me with an appreciation for the heady stuff. He spread it on sandwiches of dense pumpernickel bread and shaved beef. He mixed freshly grated horseradish root with coarsely ground brown mustard seeds, vinegar and a touch of sugar for grilled brats and sausages. I can still taste my grandmother’s pork tenderloin, baked with apples, onions and a touch of horseradish.
I like to make Bloody Marys with a bit of horseradish for an unexpected kick. Gazpacho punched up with the stuff is pretty good, too. To make one of my favorite salads, an homage to the one served at Miss Hulling’s Cafeteria, first defrost and press the excess water from two packages of frozen chopped spinach. Add a cup of grated sharp Cheddar, a half-cup of very finely minced celery and a tablespoon of horseradish. Dress with sour cream mixed with mayonnaise. Applesauce zapped in the microwave with a touch of horseradish makes a good side dish with pork. I’ve made a zesty topping for baked fish with panko, brown mustard and horseradish.
Imagine how delighted I was to learn I can buy fresh roots with just a bit of effort and a little gas.
We live very near the world’s leading producers of horseradish roots. “Sixty percent of the world’s horseradish is grown in the Collinsville area,” said Wendy Valenti, executive director of the Collinsville Chamber of Commerce. Each June, Collinsville hosts the International Horseradish Festival. According to Valenti, the two-day event draws thousands of attendees. “The food booths are the focus and the draw,” said Valenti, “but we have fun with horseradish, too.”
Events like the root derby, a zany race with customized horseradish roots on wheels; the root sacking contest; and the root toss dot the schedule. Cooking contests (both amateur and professional) featuring the hometown root promote horseradish awareness and garner kudos for the winners.
“The horseradish festival is not as famous as our giant ketchup bottle, but Food Network did a segment on it last year,” said Kim Pamatot, festival committee member and daughter of a horseradish farmer. Pamatot relies on her mother for a ready supply of fresh, homemade horseradish year-round. “My mother peels, then cuts the root and puts it in the food processor with vinegar,” she said. “Some people like to add a bit of sugar, but that’s pretty much how easy it is to make fresh horseradish.” Pamatot keeps the prepared horseradish refrigerated for up to six weeks. “When the color changes from whitish to a tan or brown, it’s time for a new batch.”
To make your own horseradish, get over to Collinsville, to the J.R. Kelly Co. on Bluff Road. You can buy grade No. 1 roots, firm and fresh, from the company. The store is a small front office at the end of the complex, the entry flanked by potted flowers. There is no sign, but it’s easy to find and the people couldn’t be nicer.
If you want to save gas, visit the Web site, where both roots and finished sauces are for sale. The sampler pack features prepared horseradish, cocktail sauce, horseradish cream and horseradish mustard. Just in time for fall. I can taste the pork roasts with horseradish carrots, celery and onion; beef tenderloins en croûte with horseradish glaze; and horseradish mashed potatoes. Next year’s festival dates are June 6 and 7, so mark your calendar. And don’t forget to visit the giant ketchup bottle.
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Horsing Around Wraps
Courtesy of The Oatman House Restaurant & Tearoom
4 servings
Horsing Around Sauce
1 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. cream cheese, softened
2 Tbsp. bottled raspberry dressing
3 Tbsp. prepared horseradish
1 Tbsp. honey mustard
•In a deep, small bowl, mix the mayonnaise into the softened cream cheese with a fork.
•Add the raspberry dressing, horseradish and honey mustard to the mayo-cream cheese mix and blend until smooth.
For wraps:
4 8-inch flour tortillas
Horsing Around Sauce
4 oz. baby spinach leaves
8 oz. lean ham, sliced and chopped
4 oz. Swiss cheese, sliced and chopped
½ cup canned pineapple tidbits, drained
½ cup sliced seedless red grapes
¼ cup sliced red onion
¼ cup sliced almonds
•Drizzle each tortilla with 2 tablespoons of Horsing Around Sauce.
•Place a layer of baby spinach leaves, overlapping, inside each tortilla.
•Layer the ham, Swiss cheese, pineapple, grapes, red onion and almonds over the bed of spinach, centering the ingredients in the middle of each tortilla.
•Fold and roll up the tortilla burrito-style: Turn up the bottom of the tortilla, about 1 ½ inches, then fold in thirds lengthwise over the filling. Allow the wraps to rest for a minute so the tortilla shapes over the filling.
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