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Jun 28, 2017
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Just Five: Lemon and Arugula Pasta

Tuesday, June 20th, 2017

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Recent emergency surgery put me on a bit of a forced vacation. The upsides of this unfortunate situation: catching up on two seasons of “Grey’s Anatomy,” quality time with the dog and my friends delivering my family a few meals. It’s not that my family is incompetent in the kitchen, but this is what people do when a friend is down and out. They drop by with a nice dinner.

I was the recipient of a delicious meal from Pastaria, some fresh bone broth, a smoked turkey and lentil stew I still think of fondly, and this simply amazing pasta dish. Apparently this is my friend’s go-to pasta dish, and it just became mine, too. So the next time you have a friend taken out of commission, bring a pot of water to boil and make this simple delicious meal.

Lemon and Arugula Pasta
3 to 4 servings

1 lb. spaghetti or other thin noodle
¼ cup minced shallot
3 Tbsp. olive oil
4 cups arugula
Juice and zest of 1 large lemon
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more to taste, divided
1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add pasta and cook according to package directions. Reserve ½ cup pasta water.
• Meanwhile, in a medium pan over medium heat, saute shallots in the olive oil 3 to 4 minutes until soft.
• Place the shallots and arugula in a large shallow serving dish. Add the lemon zest and juice, ¼ cup cheese and the black pepper and toss to combine.
• Use tongs to transfer the pasta to the serving dish. Add the pasta water and toss well until the noodles are coated. Top with remaining ¼ cup cheese and serve.

Photo by Michelle Volansky 

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

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Make This: Summer Clafoutis

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Just Five: Blueberry Rum Slush

Make This: Summer Clafoutis

Thursday, June 1st, 2017

MakeThis

 

Somewhere between a fruit-filled pancake and a custard, clafoutis can be drizzled with syrup for brunch or topped with ice cream for dessert.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk together 1 cup whole milk, 3 eggs, ½ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon lemon zest and ½ teaspoon almond extract. Stir in ½ cup flour, then pour the batter into a buttered cast-iron skillet or pie pan.

Sprinkle 2 cups blueberries over the top and bake until puffy and light brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes, dust with powdered sugar and serve. 

Customize your clafoutis: Use halved cherries, seasonal berries, chopped peaches or quartered figs. Try pears, apples or grapes in the fall, or throw in chocolate chips and cinnamon year-round.

Photo by Julia Calleo

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Sauce Magazine: June 2017

• Make This: Arepas

Just Five: Red Hot Riplets Chicken Tenders

Just Five: Red Hot Riplets Chicken Tenders

Monday, May 15th, 2017

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It’s a St. Louis thing, like Provel on pizza and pineapple Vess soda. Not everyone gets it. And that’s OK. Some flavors are just wired into your DNA. Just thinking about Old Vienna Red Hot Riplets and a chocolate malt puts me smack dab into sixth grade again. They’re my version of Proust’s madeleine, and I won’t apologize for it. These chips are spicy as heck and just a little sweet. They are a color rarely found in nature, but proudly preservative free. Note that no additional salt or pepper is added to this recipe. The chips and a little honey are all the flavor you need.

 

Red Hot Riplets Chicken Tenders
4 servings

1½ cups buttermilk
3 Tbsp. honey, plus more for drizzling
14 oz. chicken tenderloins
1 5-oz. bag Old Vienna Red Hot Riplets
½ cup flour

• In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and honey until the honey is dissolved. Add the chicken tenderloins and soak 2 to 3 hours.
• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
• In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the chips and flour 5 or 6 times, until a course crumb mixture forms. Pour in a shallow dish.
• Working a few pieces at a time, gently shake the excess buttermilk from the tenders. Dredge in the potato chip mixture until well coated and place on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining tenders.
• Bake 20 to 25 minutes, then drizzle with a little honey and serve.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

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Make This: Arepas

Just Five: Blueberry Rum Slush

Just Five: Pork Chop Pepper Confit

 

Just Five: Blueberry Rum Slush

Thursday, May 11th, 2017

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I recently painted myself into a corner. While preparing to teach a cooking class, I added a Blueberry Rum Cocktail to the menu. I hadn’t actually developed the drink yet, but it sounded like something easy to create in five ingredients. And then, well, I forgot about it.

A few weeks before the class, I rushed to create a tasty cocktail. Blueberries. Rum. Three more things – go! I spent a Friday evening, muddling, crushing and pureeing fresh blueberries to get the most out of them. I mixed them with light and dark rum, citrus, lavender, Chambord, soda water, ginger ale, ginger beer… Nothing wowed. The rum overpowered the delicate blueberries. To bring out their intense flavor, they really need to be cooked.

It was time to try something else – blueberry juice. There are a few different blueberry juice blends, but I found a bottle of pure juice (R.W. Knudsen Just Blueberry Juice) at my local grocery, and it packed the blueberry punch I was after. Creme de cassis, a blackcurrant liqueur, gives the drink a little boost, and throwing everything into the blender makes a refreshing, not overly sweet seasonal cocktail.

This recipe took years off of my life and made me question my skills, but I can proudly say that this is a fine drink, my friends. And be careful: they go down easy!

 

Blueberry Rum Slush
4 servings

2 cups ice
2 cups blueberry juice
12 oz. ginger ale
1 cup white rum
½ cup creme de cassis
4 sprigs fresh rosemary to garnish

• Place the ice, blueberry juice, ginger ale, rum and creme de cassis in a blender and blitz until frothy. Pour into 4 large serving glasses.
• Slap the fresh rosemary between your palms to release the oils. Garnish each drink with a rosemary sprig and serve with a straw.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

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Make This: Arepas

Monday, May 1st, 2017

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This tortilla-pancake lovechild can be sliced and filled or topped with just about anything.

In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups warm water, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt and stir until the salt dissolves. Gradually add 2 cups masarepa (arepa flour, available at most international groceries), stirring constantly 1 minute. Cover the bowl with a towel and let rest 10 minutes.

Divide the dough into 8 equal portions and shape into 5-inch patties, ½-inch thick.

Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, brush lightly with vegetable oil, add 4 arepas and cook until golden brown with some charred spots, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Let cool on a wire rack and repeat with the remaining arepas.

Top with:
• Butter and agave

• Guacamole and cojita cheese

• Black beans and hot sauce

• Carnitas or barbacoa

• Nutella and crushed peanuts

 

Photo by Julia Calleo

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine who also writes the online recipe column, Just Five.

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Sauce Magazine: May 2017

Just Five: Pork Chops with Peppers Confit

Make This: Speedy Mac n Cheese

Just Five: Pork Chop with Peppers Confit

Monday, April 10th, 2017

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Confit is a method of preservation that generally involves cooking food in fat low and slow for a long time. While you often hear of meat prepared confit (duck confit is a delicacy that comes from cooking duck legs in rendered duck fat), vegetables are confit-able. Cooking peppers in oil over low heat transforms their texture from a crisp juicy bite to smooth and almost creamy. Adding capers lends a briny, herbal bite, and sharp-sweet sherry vinegar-soaked golden raisins make this dish dance.

 
Pork Chop with Peppers Confit
Inspired by a Rozanne Gold recipe
2 servings

¼ cup golden raisins
3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar, plus more to taste
4 yellow or red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 8 slices each
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 thick-cut pork chops
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. capers

• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
• In a small bowl, soak the raisins in the vinegar. Set aside.
• In a medium pot over medium heat, bring the pepper slices and and ¼ cup olive oil to a boil. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and reduce heat to low. Simmer 45 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally, but do not remove the lid.
• Generously season the pork chops with salt and pepper.
• Preheat a heavy, oven-safe skillet over high heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and sear the pork chops 4 minutes on each side.
• Place the skillet in the oven and bake 10 minutes. Place the chops on a serving plate and let rest.
• Remove the peppers from the oil and place them in a mixing bowl. Add the capers, raisins and vinegar and gently toss. Season to taste with salt, pepper and vinegar, then place the peppers confit atop the pork chops and serve.

Photo by Michelle Volansky

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

 

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• The Weekend Project: Confit

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Make This: Speedy Mac and Cheese

Make This: Speedy Mac and Cheese

Saturday, April 1st, 2017

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There’s a happy medium between the blue box and a fussy bechamel. Thanks to some inspiration from Serious Eats, gourmet mac and cheese just made the weeknight menu. To a medium saucepan, add 1½ cups elbow macaroni and enough water or stock to just cover the pasta, about 2½ cups. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently until almost all the liquid is absorbed, 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in 1 12-ounce can evaporated milk and bring back to a boil. Stir in 1½ cups grated sharp cheddar and ¼ cup grated Parmesan until completely melted and smooth, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

Photo by Julia Calleo

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• Just Five: Guinness Beer Bread

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Just Five: Guinness Beer Bread

Thursday, March 16th, 2017

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Luck of the Irish indeed! Sauce Magazine tips the hat to all things beer this month, and March also celebrates all things Irish. This month rocks!

I wondered how to make a Just Five recipe with beer as one of key ingredients. After a little research on beer bread and soda bread, I threw both recipes together, picked out the parts I liked, and hoped for the blessing of St. Honoratus of Amiens (Google him).

A note on this recipe: If you do not sift the flour, you’ll have a dry biscuit, not bread. Sift, sift, sift! This simple quick bread has a crunchy crust from baking in butter and a lovely sweetness from the beer and brown sugar, proving once again that beer makes it better.

 
Guinness Beer Bread
6 servings

3 cups sifted all-purpose flour
3 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
¼ cup packed brown sugar
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary
12 oz. Guinness or other dark beer
6 Tbsp. (¾ stick) unsalted butter, melted

• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
• In a large mixing bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder and salt. Break up the packed brown sugar with a fork, then add it and the rosemary and stir well to combine the dry ingredients. Add the beer and mix until a sticky dough forms.
• Spread the dough evenly into a cast-iron skillet or greased 9-by-9-inch baking dish and pour the melted butter over the dough. Bake 40 to 45 minutes.
• Let cool at least 15 minutes before serving. Bread will keep 4 to 5 days at room temperature in an airtight container.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

Photo by Michelle Volansky

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Sauce Magazine: Guide to Beer 2017

• The Weekend Project: Corned Beef and Cabbage

Extra Sauce: 6 green dishes (and 2 green drinks) to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day

Just Five: Quick Coconut Brownies

Wednesday, March 8th, 2017

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I recently ordered one of everything at my favorite bakery, and yet somehow, the beautiful brownie that I know was on my list did not make it into the bag. Yes, I had cupcakes and caramel cake and biscuits and scones and a cookie (I said one of everything – don’t judge), but since there was no decadent chocolate punch in the face, I did what anyone would do: I made brownies. And for fun-sies, I used coconut oil.

Usually I use coconut oil when making popcorn. It doesn’t impart a taste but rather an aroma of coconut, and I find it somehow tastes cleaner than vegetable oil. You can definitely taste the coconut in these brownies, though –imagine a Mounds truffle. Break the Just Five rules and gild the lily by adding vanilla extract or chopped almonds to the batter or topping with toasted coconut flakes or sea salt after baking.

 

Quick Coconut Brownies
1 8-by-8-inch pan

¾ cup solid coconut oil
½ cup (4 oz.) semisweet chocolate chips
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
3 room-temperature eggs
¾ cup flour
1 tsp. kosher salt

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
• In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, melt the coconut oil and chocolate chips, stirring gently, until the chocolate is completely melted.
• In a large mixing bowl, whisk the melted chocolate mix and the brown sugar until combined. Whisk in the eggs 1 at a time, then stir in the flour and salt until just combined.
• Pour the batter into an 8-by-8-inch glass dish and bake 25 minutes. Some oil will rise to the top of the brownies while baking, but it will absorb as they rest.
• Let rest at least 1 hour before cutting.

 

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

 

 

Photo by Michelle Volansky

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• Just Five: Lamb Ragu

• Just Five: Chocolate Tofu Pudding

Make This: Spicy Shrimp Cocktail

Make This: Spicy Shrimp Cocktail

Wednesday, March 1st, 2017

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Skip the boring ketchup stuff and whip up this creamy, spicy-sweet sauce next time you’re shrimp cocktailing. In a large stockpot over high heat, bring 6 cups water, ½ lemon, 2 bay leaves and 1 tablespoon kosher salt to a boil. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath. Add 1 pound medium thawed or fresh shrimp to the boiling water and cook 1½ to 2 minutes, until pink and opaque. Transfer the shrimp to the ice bath and let cool 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together ½ cup sour cream, 1 teaspoon honey, 1 teaspoon hot sauce, 1 teaspoon lime juice and ½ teaspoon cumin in a small bowl. Stir in 1 tablespoon minced green onions. Remove the shrimp from the water bath and serve with the dipping sauce.

Photo by Julia Calleo

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