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Jan 20, 2017
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Just Five: Onion Jam

Wednesday, January 11th, 2017

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Onion jam: a phrase that will either horrify or intrigue you. When I brought a jar to a party recently, one woman wrinkled her nose and asked if I was joking, while the host (a true gourmand) merely raised an eyebrow and smiled. After the woman bid farewell, we agreed good riddance to that riffraff.

While this is a lovely accompaniment to a cheese tray, it shines brightest in a panini. This sweet jam with a hint of bitterness from coffee is quite magical when paired with gooey cheese. It would also be delicious served alongside pork tenderloin or roast chicken.

 

Onion Jam
2 cups

¼ cup olive oil
3 large white onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 sprig fresh rosemary*
1 cup sugar
¼ cup brewed coffee
½ cup white or regular balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, warm the oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onions and saute 10 to 15 minutes, until they soften and start to brown. Add the rosemary and saute 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant.
• Sprinkle the sugar atop of the onion mixture, but do not stir. Let the sugar melt, 6 to 7 minutes.
• Stir in the coffee and balsamic vinegar and bring to a boil. Cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes.
• Remove and discard the rosemary. Season to taste with salt and pepper and let cool. The jam will keep, refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.

*If you want to keep rosemary leaves out of your jam, wrap the sprig in kitchen twine to hold it together.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

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Make This: Savory Granola

Sunday, January 1st, 2017

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Ditch the croutons and pump up the volume on your soups and salads with this crunchy, savory topper. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine 1 cup old-fashioned oats, ½ cup slivered almonds, ½ cup raw sunflower seeds, ⅓ cup grated Parmesan, ¼ cup raw sesame seeds, 2 Tbsp. chopped rosemary, ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper and ½ teaspoon garlic powder. In a small bowl, beat 1 egg white until frothy, then add it and ¼ cup olive oil to the oat mixture. Toss to combine. Pour onto a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and bake 25 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Let cool, then break into chunks. Store in an airtight container up to 1 week.

Photo by Carmen Troesser

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Sauce Magazine: January 2017

Make This: Thai Noodles with Gai Lan

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Just Five: Rubis Bulles Cocktail

Wednesday, December 28th, 2016

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Champagne is probably my favorite cocktail ingredient. I love a French 75, Black Velvet or a Kir Royale. They make me feel like I’m in a pretty cocktail dress wearing ridiculous shoes and laughing at the most charming stories that my adorable friends are telling – even if I’m just binge-watching Chopped in my pajamas.

Combine Champagne with gin, vodka and Lillet, a French aperitif with strong citrus notes, and you have a bubbly take on a classic Vesper cocktail. I add blood orange juice to give the drink wonderful color. Hosting New Year’s Eve? You can easily batch this into a punch for the party.

 

Rubis Bulles Cocktail
2 servings

1 Tbsp. hot water
1 Tbsp. sugar
2 oz. Lillet Blanc
1 oz. blood orange juice
1 oz. Hendricks or Nolet’s gin
2 oz. Champagne
2 blood orange peels, for garnish

• In a small bowl, make a simple syrup by combining the hot water and sugar, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
• In large mixing glass, add 4 to 5 ice cubes, the Lillet, blood orange juice, gin and ½ ounce simple syrup. Strain into 2 Champagne flutes, top each with 1 ounce Champagne and garnish with a blood orange peel.

 

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Recipe: Panama Rum Punch
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Just Five: Chicken with Porcini and Cherries

Friday, December 9th, 2016

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During a recent cleaning frenzy (there were mice – I don’t want to talk about it), I unearthed a jar of dried porcini mushrooms that got shoved to the back of my pantry. I also came across a jar of dried cherries during my epicurean archeological dig, and just like that, a recipe was born. Earthy porcini infuses the cooking liquid, and dried cherries add texture, as well as a sweet and tart bite. H/t mice.

 

Chicken and Porcini and Cherries
4 servings

2 cups chicken stock
1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 small leek, trimmed and thinly sliced
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup dried cherries

• Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
• In a medium sauce pot, bring the chicken stock to a simmer over medium heat. Add the porcini mushrooms, cover and remove from heat.
• In a large oven-safe skillet, warm the oil over medium heat and saute the leeks 5 minutes, until soft and starting to brown. Sprinkle the chicken liberally with salt and pepper, the place skin side-down in the skillet. Sear 3 minutes, then flip and sear another 3 minutes. Slowly pour in the chicken stock and mushrooms, then add the cherries and simmer 3 minutes.
• Place the skillet in the oven and cook 5 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. Serve, spooning the pan sauce over the chicken.

 

 

Make This: Thai Noodles with Gai Lan

Wednesday, November 30th, 2016

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Skip the Thai takeout and put this dish on the table in 15 minutes flat. In a medium bowl, pour boiling water over 14 ounces rice stick noodles and let sit 7 minutes. Drain and rinse the noodles then toss them with 2 tablespoons sesame oil. In a small bowl, combine ⅓ cup soy sauce, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1½ tablespoons chile-garlic sauce, 1 tablespoon grated ginger and 2 teaspoons rice vinegar. Set aside. In a large skillet or wok over high heat, warm 3 tablespoons vegetable oil. Add the noodles to the skillet with 6 cups roughly chopped gai lan. Saute 2 minutes, then stir in the sauce and cook 1 to 2 minutes more. Garnish with ⅓ cup each chopped basil, cilantro and mint; ¼ cup chopped peanuts; and lime wedges.

 

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Photo by Greg Rannells

Just Five: Broccoli Soup

Tuesday, November 29th, 2016

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In my house, broccoli is king of the vegetables. We eat it steamed, roasted, stir-fried, raw or covered in cheese (duh). This simple broccoli soup includes tarragon, which created a house divided. Those 40 and older liked the slight hint of anise the scant amount of fresh tarragon added to the soup. However, the 20-and-younger contingent thought it might die from eating what it ascertained to be the equivalent of an entire bag of black licorice. The same group agreed that an alternate version, made with a couple fresh basil leaves in lieu of tarragon, was delicious. And still, the king remains on his throne.
Broccoli Soup
3 to 4 servings

1 Tbsp. olive oil
¼ cup minced shallot
1 lb. (about 5 cups) chopped broccoli, stems and florets
3 cups chicken broth, plus more as needed
¼ cup cream cheese
1 Tbsp. chopped tarragon or basil, plus more for garnish
¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

• In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add shallots and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the broccoli and cover, reducing the heat to medium-low. Simmer 15 minutes then remove from heat.
• Use an immersion blender or carefully pour the contents of the pot into a blender pitcher. Add the cream cheese, tarragon, salt and pepper and puree 30 seconds. Add more stock as needed to reach desired consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
• Serve garnished with fresh tarragon and crusty bread.

 

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Just Five: Roasted Broccoli
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• Just Five: Leeks Vinaigrette with Eggs
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Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

Make This: Leftover Turkey Cuban

Monday, November 21st, 2016

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Leftover Thanksgiving turkey can seem endless – until you press it into this modified Cuban sandwich. Slice a telera or other soft sandwich roll in half lengthwise. On one half, spread 1 tablespoon each yellow mustard and cranberry sauce. Top with 1 slice baby Swiss cheese, 5 to 7 bread-and-butter pickles and 2 ounces each leftover turkey and sliced ham. Cover with the other half of the roll. Place the sandwich in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Press down with another heavy pan 2 minutes, then flip the sandwich, press down with the pan and cook 2 more minutes, until the cheese is melted.

Just Five: Acorn Squash with Apples and Blue Cheese

Wednesday, November 9th, 2016

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With beautiful greens, oranges and yellows (and even some blue!), this dish belongs on a holiday table. The crystallized ginger shines through with chewy, peppery-sweet pops that make this dish spectacular. Adding blue cheese to this recipe was genius, but if you dislike it, try a good tangy goat cheese or a sharp cheddar.

 

Acorn Squash with Apples and Blue Cheese
4 servings

2 acorn squashes*, halved and seeded
2 Tbsp. butter
1 to 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped into ½-inch dice (about 2 cups)
¼ cup golden raisins
2 Tbsp. chopped crystallized ginger
⅓ cup crumbled blue cheese
Kosher salt

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
• Place the squash cut side-down in a baking dish filled with ½ inch of water. Bake 40 minutes.
• Meanwhile, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the apple and saute 2 to 3 minutes. Add the raisins, ginger and ¼ cup water and bring to a simmer. Cover, remove from heat and let rest 5 minutes. Uncover and let cool.
• Remove the squash, empty the water and return the squash the baking dish cut side up.
• Stir the blue cheese into the apple mixture, then fill each squash half with about ¼ cup of the apple mixture. Sprinkle each with a pinch of salt.
• Bake 15 minutes then serve.

 

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

Just Five: Moroccan-spiced Spaghetti Squash

Thursday, October 27th, 2016

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While I love decorative gourds as much as the next person, I’m an edible gourd kind of gal. Pumpkin, delicata, acorn, butternut, pattypan… As soon as autumn hits, I’m throwing these at everything except my tablescape. Spaghetti squash is one variety I haven’t played with much. I love the idea of a squash that transforms into “noodles” when pulled apart with a fork, but then what? I’m not putting marinara on that “spaghetti.” Instead, I turned to the flavors I associate with autumn.

Cinnamon, cumin, cayenne, nutmeg and cardamom are all found in garam masala, one of my favorite spice blends. I added a little sweetness and texture from golden raisins and some protein with cooked lentils. A hit of chopped parsley or cilantro adds brightness that goes with the dried fruit and earthy squash. Save this recipe for a great Thanksgiving side or vegetarian entree.

 
Moroccan-spiced Spaghetti Squash
2 servings

1 medium spaghetti squash
2 pinches of kosher salt, plus more to taste
½ cup cooked lentils, divided
½ cup golden raisins or currants, divided
2 Tbsp. butter, divided
1 Tbsp. garam masala, divided
¼ cup chopped cilantro or parsley, divided

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
• Cut the spaghetti squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds and membrane. Sprinkle each half with a pinch of salt and place cut-side down on the baking sheet.
• Bake 30 minutes, remove and let rest 10 minutes until cool enough to handle.
• Use a fork to scrape the flesh of the spaghetti squash into long strands, leaving the skins intact to use as a serving vessel. To each half, add ¼ cup lentils, ¼ cup raisins, 1 tablespoon butter and ½ tablespoon garam masala. Toss until the butter is melted and all ingredients are combined. Season to taste with salt, garnish with cilantro and serve.

 

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

 

Make This: Apple-Burrata Salad

Tuesday, October 25th, 2016

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Cabbage, apples and creamy burrata cheese come together for a sophisticated spin on a humble salad. In a large bowl, whisk together ¼ cup lime juice, ¼ cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons maple syrup and a few drops of hot sauce. Add a 10-ounce bag of shredded green cabbage, 1 thinly sliced Pink Lady or Granny Smith apple and ¼ cup chopped fresh dill. Toss well to combine. Top the salad with a 4-ounce ball of room-temperature burrata and slice it into quarters, allowing the cheese to seep out and mix with the dressed salad. Sprinkle with ¼ cup chopped toasted walnuts and serve.

 

-photo by Greg Rannells

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