For some, DIY canning is a lofty yet seldom achieved goal. They swear they’ll get around to it this year, but somehow those shiny new mason jars end up holding boozy lemonade long before they ever see canned tomatoes.
But for Dan and I, canning has always been an annual event. I grew up on a hill overlooking the Mississippi floodplain, and my mom planted an abundant vegetable garden in that rich alluvial soil that yielded zucchini, bell peppers and eggplants by the bushel. The best thing that came from those summers spent hauling produce up the hill was Mom’s sweet zucchini-tomato relish. In the winter months, the basement shelves were lined with colorful jars of the stuff, along with gallons of canned beans and tomatoes.
Dan’s grandfather had a backyard garden as large as an Olympic pool, and all the children spent the summer helping tend and harvest the abundance of tomatoes and beans for canning, cabbages for sauerkraut, cucumbers for pickling and grapes for jellies. His parents continue this tradition today, canning beans, tomatoes and even applesauce made from the fruit of a backyard apple tree. These boxes of preserved treats have become cherished family presents during the holidays.
Don’t be put off by the unknown when canning or preserving. You are simply preserving food by creating an anaerobic environment with a pH level unsuitable to the growth of bacteria and mold. … It’s simpler than it sounds.
For any canning project, you’ll need a clean, sterile set of canning jars, like the classic pint- or quart-sized Ball mason jars with a set of bands and new mouth lids. There are three ways to clean your equipment to ensure a sterile canning environment: wash the jars, bands and mouth lids in the dishwasher, bake them for 10 minutes at 300 degrees, or submerge them in boiling water for 10 minutes. You’ll also need a clean, dry towel, and a pair of jar tongs is nice, though not necessary.
Canning can be done with a hot water bath or a pressure cooker (yes, that seldom used vessel likely collecting dust in a closet). Both methods can be used for more acidic foods like tomatoes and grapes, while less acidic foods like corn or green beans really need to be processed in a pressure cooker. The pressure and salt actually cook the food, killing off any bacteria that may be present and creating a sterile environment for preservation.
A quick note about using a pressure cooker: Make sure to read the directions thoroughly and always use the canning rack that comes with the device. Although not a complicated pot, you are working with very hot liquid under high pressure, and the simple tips will help keep you safe.
We’ve provided three recipes to can tomatoes, corn and a zucchini relish, but many pressure cooker websites have suggestions for canning fruits and vegetables, too. So when a crop overtakes your garden this summer, or you simply cannot pass up a bushel of spectacular “insert your produce here” at the farmers market, don’t despair! Support your local farmers, fertilize that garden, and call a friend over to help with summer canning. You will both walk away with delicious treats to remember this glorious St. Louis summer all winter long.
The Gameplan This month, we keep it simple. You can complete this canning project in one day or spread it out over a few if you’re so inclined.
The Shopping List * 32 to 48 tomatoes
1½ Tbsp. plus 6 tsp. pickling salt
10 lbs. fresh corn, in husk
4 cups chopped zucchini
2 cups chopped onions
2 cups chopped red bell peppers
2 cups cider vinegar
1 tsp. celery seeds
1 tsp. yellow mustard seeds
4 thin slices fresh ginger, divided
*This list assumes you have white vinegar and sugar. If not, you will need to purchase those, too. 
Canned Tomatoes Makes 4 quarts
32 to 48 firm, ripe tomatoes
4 tsp. pickling salt, divided
White vinegar if using a pressure cooker
• Bring a large stockpot of water to boil and prepare a large ice bath.
• Concasse the tomatoes by making a small “X” in the bottom of each one. Working in batches, drop the tomatoes in the boiling water and blanch 1 minute. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the ice bath to cool. Then remove, peel the skins and core them.
• Pack the tomatoes (slice in half if very large) into 4 sterilized, 1-quart canning jars (The tomatoes will squish a bit and fill the jar with juice.), leaving ½ inch of space at the top of each jar. Add 1 teaspoon pickling salt to each quart. Place a sterilized mouth lid on top of each jar and secure it with a sterilized band. Do not twist it tightly, just enough to keep the lid in place.
• If using the water bath method, discard the water in the stockpot. Fill it with enough fresh water to cover the canning jars by 1 inch. Bring the water to a rapid boil over high heat. Carefully place the jars in the stockpot, cover, and boil 1 hour to seal them. Use canning tongs or regular tongs to carefully remove the jars from the water and let cool.
• If using the pressure cooker method, place the canning rack at the bottom of the pot, then add the jars. Fill the pot with 3 quarts cold water and 2 tablespoons white vinegar. Secure the pressure cooker lid and place it over high heat. When the pressure gauge reaches 11 pounds, lower the heat to medium. Let cook 25 minutes, watching the pressure gauge and adjusting the temperature as needed to maintain 11 pounds of pressure.
• Turn off the heat and let the pressure cooker cool. Once the pressure gauge returns to 0 pounds, remove the lid, gently remove the jars and let cool under a clean towel.
• When the jars are completely cool, check to see if any of the lids still pop up and down. These quarts did not seal and should be refrigerated and used within 2 weeks.
• Tighten the bands on the jars that formed a tight seal and store in a dark space. The sealed tomatoes will keep several years.
Canned Corn Makes 4 pints
10 lbs. fresh ears of corn*, in husk
2 tsp. pickling salt (optional)
2 Tbsp. white vinegar
• Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat.
• Meanwhile, shuck the corn and remove the silks. Hold an ear upright in a 9-by-12-inch baking dish and slice down to remove the corn from the cob. Break the kernels apart with your hands.
• Fill 4 sterilized, 1-pint canning jars with corn. Add ½ teaspoon pickling salt to each, if desired, and then fill with the boiling water, leaving 1 inch of space at the top. Place a sterilized mouth lid on top of each jar and secure it with a sterilized band. Do not twist it tightly, just enough to keep the lid in place.
• Place the canning rack at the bottom of the pressure cooker, then add the jars. Fill the pot with 3 quarts cold water and 2 tablespoons white vinegar. Secure the pressure cooker lid and place it over high heat. When the pressure gauge reaches 10 pounds, lower the heat to medium. Let cook 55 minutes, watching the pressure gauge and adjusting the temperature as needed to maintain 10 pounds of pressure.
• Turn off the heat and let the pressure cooker cool. Once the pressure gauge returns to 0, remove the lid, gently remove the jars and let cool under a clean towel.
• When they are completely cool, check to see if any of the lids still pop up and down. These quarts did not seal and should be refrigerated and used within 2 weeks.
• Tighten the bands on the jars that formed a seal and store in a dark place. The sealed corn will keep for several years.
*Keep corn refrigerated until ready to use.
Zucchini Relish Makes 4 pints
4 cups chopped zucchini, cored and seeded
2 cups chopped onions
2 cups chopped red bell peppers, seeded
1½ Tbsp. pickling salt
1 cup sugar
2 cups cider vinegar
1 tsp. celery seeds
1 tsp. yellow mustard seeds
4 thin slices fresh ginger, divided
• In a large bowl, mix the chopped vegetables with the pickling salt and pour into a colander. Place the colander inside the mixing bowl and allow the vegetables to sit 30 minutes to season and remove excess water.
• Meanwhile, bring the sugar, cider vinegar, celery seeds and mustard seeds to a boil in a stainless steel or nonreactive pot over high heat.
• Thoroughly rinse and drain the vegetables, then add them to the brine and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
• Place 1 slice fresh ginger in the bottom of 4 sterilized, 1-pint canning jars. Use a wide-mouth canning funnel or ladle to transfer the hot relish into each jar, leaving ½ inch of space. Place a sterilized mouth lid on top of each jar and secure it with a sterilized band. Do not twist it tightly, just enough to keep the lid in place.
• If using the water bath method, fill a stockpot with enough water to cover a 1-pint canning jar. Bring the water to a rapid boil over high heat. Carefully place the jars in the stockpot, cover, and boil 10 minutes to seal them. Use canning tongs or regular tongs to carefully remove the jars from the water and let cool.
• If using the pressure cooker method, place the canning rack at the bottom of the pot, then add the jars. Fill the pot with 3 quarts cold water and 2 tablespoons white vinegar. Secure the pressure cooker lid and place it over high heat. When the pressure gauge reaches 11 pounds, lower the heat to medium. Let cook 15 minutes, watching the pressure gauge and adjusting the temperature as needed to maintain 11 pounds of pressure.
• Turn off the heat and let the pressure cooker cool. Once the pressure gauge returns to 0 pounds, remove the lid, gently remove the jars and let cool under a clean towel.
• When they are completely cool, check if any of the lids still pop up and down. These quarts did not seal and should be refrigerated and used within 2 weeks.
• Tighten the bands on the jars that formed a seal and store in a dark place. Relish should rest at least 3 weeks before eating. Sealed relish will keep for several years.
-photos by Michelle Volansky
This article appears in Readers’ Choice 2014.