Patatas Bravas

• Preheat the oven (if using) to 450 degrees, or heat a fire and let embers burn down to an ash grey color.
• Place the potatoes in a bowl and toss with enough olive oil to coat and salt and pepper to taste.
• If using the oven, bake in a shallow pan for 30 to 35 minutes, or until both sides are crisp, rotating the pan and flipping the potatoes halfway through. If cooking over a fire, place in a cast iron pan over the center of the fire, tossing occasionally to avoid burning, until crisp on all sides.
• While the potatoes are cooking, make the spicy tomato sauce: Heat Œ cup of olive oil in a medium saucepot over medium heat with sliced onions and cook until soft, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the chopped garlic and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the paprika, cayenne and cumin and toast the spices in the mixture for about 1 minute, or until aromatic.
• Add the vinegar and tomatoes to the pot, making sure to scrape up the fond on the bottom of the pan and to crush tomatoes with a wooden spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer on medium-low for 15 minutes. Let the mixture cool slightly, then spoon it into a blender or food processor and purée. Set aside.*
• Next, make the aïoli: Over medium heat, fry the whole garlic cloves in enough olive oil to coat until they turn golden brown, paying close attention not to let them burn. Remove with a slotted spoon and discard oil. Chop crisp garlic cloves. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the chopped garlic, mayonnaise, parsley, lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of olive oil and pulse until smooth. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Pulse again to combine. Set aside.*
• Once potatoes are crisp on all sides and cooked through, transfer to a platter or bowl and drizzle spicy tomato sauce on top. Serve with aïoli on the side.

*Can be made a day ahead. Keep in sealed container in the refrigerator.

This article appears in Nov 1-30, 2011.