Since I was a little girl, I’ve spent part of the summer in Chatham, New Jersey. My cousins and I plotted journeys into New York City, escaped to the shore for day or just dangled from the front porch swing of my godparents’ vacation home planning our next adventure.
The Garden State is full of culinary delights: funnel cakes and fresh lemonade from the boardwalk, steamer clams from the fabled Berkeley Fish Market, my Aunt Cathy’s homemade granola or Uncle Ron’s chicken piccata. Upstate New Jersey is also home to the quintessential diner, and three years ago, a classic diner with a Lebanese twist opened in my home away from home: Aida’s Cozy Kitchen.
Owner Aida Hajjar opened just in time to help those without electricity and water after Hurricane Sandy. She has been kissing babies, pouring hot coffee, and baking fresh baklava and fig crescent cookies ever since. Traditional diner fare is served all day, but after 11 a.m., the shotgun-style space shines as a darling Lebanese restaurant.
The menu bursts with flavor, but the best dish by far is a plate of garlic bombs. Imagine a hot, cheesy potato fritter balanced by the bright lemon and garlic, all served on a bed of tangy Lebanese cole slaw. I was so inspired by this delicious appetizer that I adapted the recipe for the home cook and created an entire Lebanese feast to accompany it. Garlic bombs are the perfect starter, but pair them with seared lamb and a side dish and you have a spectacular meal. You could even try this recipe with leftover mashed potatoes and entertain a hungry crowd.
The Game Plan Day 1: Assemble garlic bombs. Prepare beet salad. Prepare lamb chops.
Day 2: Fry garlic bombs. Make cole slaw. Sear lamb chops.
The Shopping List* 4 medium or 2 large russet potatoes
12 cloves roasted garlic (DIY here)
1 cup ricotta or labneh
1 cup grated Romano
1½ tsp. onion powder
1 egg
2 Tbsp. milk
1 cup breadcrumbs
7 medium beets
2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
4 sprigs thyme
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
1 tsp. minced fresh ginger
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 lemon
8 cups thinly sliced cabbage
1 tsp. red pepper paste
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
2 sprigs fresh oregano
12 bone-in lamb chops
*This list assumes you have kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, flour, vegetable, olive oil and sugar at hand in your kitchen. If not, you will need to purchase those, too.
Garlic Bombs Adapted from a recipe by Aida Hajjar of Aida’s Cozy Kitchen 4 to 6 servings
4 medium or 2 large russet potatoes, peeled and diced into 1-inch pieces
12 cloves roasted garlic, puréed (DIY here)
1 cup ricotta or labneh
1 cup grated Romano
1½ tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ cup flour
1 egg
2 Tbsp. milk
1 cup breadcrumbs
Vegetable oil or lard, for frying
• Day 1: Place the potatoes in a medium pot. Fill with enough water to cover the potatoes by 1 inch. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil 20 minutes, until fork tender. Drain and place in a large mixing bowl.
• Use a potato masher or pastry cutter to mash the potatoes until smooth. Add the ricotta, Romano, onion powder, salt and pepper and mash until the texture is smooth and even. Taste and adjust seasoning.
• Prepare to dredge by pouring the flour in a shallow dish. In another dish, whisk the egg and milk together to create an egg wash. In a third dish, pour the breadcrumbs.
• Use your hands to form ¼ cup potato mixture into a ball. Gently roll the ball in the flour to lightly coat, then dip it in the egg wash, gently letting the excess drip off. Roll it in the breadcrumbs, shake off any excess, and place on a large plate. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
• Day 2: Fill a deep cast-iron or heavy-bottomed skillet with 2 to 3 inches vegetable oil or lard. Warm over high heat until it reaches 350 degrees, then lower to medium, adjusting as necessary to maintain a consistent temperature. Working in batches of 4, fry the potato balls 1 to 2 minutes, until golden-brown all over and warm throughout. Remove and let drain on a paper towel-lined plate.
• Serve hot over a bed of Lebanese Cole Slaw (recipe follows).
Roasted Beet Salad 4 to 6 servings
7 medium beets, root and stem ends trimmed
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 sprigs thyme
1 clove garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
1 tsp. minced fresh ginger
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
• Day 1: Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place a 2-foot long sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil over a baking sheet.
• Place the beets in the center of the foil and evenly coat with 2 tablespoons olive oil, the apple cider vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Scatter the thyme sprigs over the top and fold the foil into a tight packet.
• Roast 45 minutes, until the beets are fork tender. Unwrap and let cool enough to handle.
• Use a clean old dishtowel to rub the skins from the beets. Reserve 1 beet for the Lebanese Cole Slaw (recipe follows).
• Dice the remaining 6 beets into ¼-inch cubes and place in a large mixing bowl. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic, chives, ginger, balsamic vinegar, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Toss, refrigerate until ready to serve.
Lebanese Cole Slaw 4 to 6 servings
8 cups thinly sliced cabbage
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
1 tsp. red pepper paste
1 reserved Roasted Beet (recipe above)
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp. sugar
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Day 2: In a large mixing bowl, toss together the cabbage, salt and red pepper paste, then use your hands to massage the cabbage 3 to 5 minutes to soften.
• Crush the beet in your hands, adding the juice to the cabbage. Discard the crushed beet. Add the lemon juice, sugar and pepper and stir. Taste and adjust seasoning. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Pan-Seared Lamb Chops 6 servings
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano
1 tsp. kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
12 bone-in lamb chops
2 to 3 Tbsp. olive oil
• Day 1: In a large shallow baking dish, combine the garlic, rosemary, oregano, salt and pepper. Coat the lamb chops in the herb mixture, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.
• Day 2: In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, warm the olive oil over high heat until it ripples, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the lamb chops and sear 3 to 4 minutes on each side until browned. Flip and sear the other side 2 to 3 minutes. Let rest on a cutting board 5 minutes before servings.
-photos by Michelle Volansky
This article appears in Readers’ Choice 2015.