Very few ramen shops in the United States make their noodles in-house, and restaurants offering broth-less styles like tsukemen and mazemen are comparably rare. Local jewel Menya Rui does both, but it’s the broth-less tantanmen that really has us hooked. The fresh, chewy noodles take center stage in this Japanese take on Sichuan dan-dan noodles with ground pork, aromatic chile oil, sesame paste and pleasing notes of that signature numbing spice. Crisp strips of menma (bamboo shoots) and a generous topping of bean sprouts and scallions add fresh crunch. Add a generous squeeze of black vinegar for a satisfying tang, and upgrade your bowl with a perfectly custardy marinated egg for an additional dollar.
3453 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.601.3524, menyarui.com
This article appears in February 2024.