Since I started writing these articles for Sauce, I have discovered new things, found countless new recipes, and definitely learned a lot about the history of products, spices and herbs that we use all the time. Sometimes while researching the history of something, I find very interesting tidbits of lore that hardly anyone knows. Other times, the history is so completely obvious that I scratch my head and wonder why I never figured it out. Such is the case with soy sauce.
In the sixth century, Buddhism became a very popular religion in Japan and China. With this new religion came vegetarianism. With vegetarianism came the need of a new meatless seasoning, hence soy sauce. Some 2,500 years ago, the people of prehistoric Asia would preserve their meat and fish in salt. The liquid that they seeped from the preserved meat would be used as a base for flavoring foods much like we use chicken and beef base. When the need for a meatless base came along, a salty paste of fermented soybeans and wheat was invented.
Today there are two main types of soy sauce: naturally brewed (or “fermented”) and non-brewed.
Naturally brewed soy sauce is made in three steps: Koji-making, brine fermentation, and refining. Koji-making is the process of blending soybeans and wheat in a controlled setting. Next, a seed mold is introduced and allowed to mature for several days in vats through which air is circulated. Brine fermentation occurs when the culture, or Koji, is then put in fermentation tanks and mixed with saltwater to produce a mash called moromi. The moromi is fermented several months with lactic acid bacteria and yeasts. The result is a semi-liquid mash. This mash is then pressed through layers of filtration cloth to remove the liquid or raw soy sauce. The liquid is then refined, pasteurized and packaged.
Non brewed soy sauce is make by boiling the soybeans with hydrochloric acid for 15 to 20 hours. After being cooled, neutralized, and filtered it is mixed with active carbon and purified. Color and flavor are added and then the mixture is refined and packaged.
Naturally brewed soy sauce comes in two varieties: light and dark. The Chinese produce both varieties and use it much like we use red and white wine. The light soy sauce is used primarily with seafood, vegetables, and in soups and dipping sauces. The dark soy is aged longer and mixed with molasses giving it a stronger flavor and deeper color, making it better with heartier dishes such as many beef and pork dishes. The Japanese prefer lighter versions than the Chinese.
There are other versions of soy sauce as well. Infusing soy sauce with straw mushrooms makes a particularly dark version, which is aptly named mushroom soy. Japanese tamari soy is brewed without wheat and is common in sushi restaurants as opposed to the home. Ketjap manis, a very sweet, thick soy sauce is used in Indonesia and Toyo mansi is a light soy sauce from the Philippines flavored with a native fruit similar to the lemon.
Whatever type of soy sauce you prefer, your dishes will certainly benefit from the flavor. The variations in marinades, sauces and condiments are endless. I’ve included a couple of interesting recipes to get you started.
This article appears in March 2024.