I’m always pleased to see a restaurant wine list that truly completes the menu, and the list at Molly’s in Soulard has certainly accomplished that task. The new eatery’s large and creative menu is well-complemented by thoughtfully presented wine offerings. The list is easy to navigate, as it’s simply organized by grape variety.
Five sparkling wines cover a range of styles and prices. The selection includes one of my personal favorites, the Toad Hollow Amplexus Crémant Brut from the Limoux region of southern France. Limoux has produced sparkling wines since the 16th century, long before the Champagne region became famous for its bubbles. At $7 a glass, this is a great way to start any exploration of both the wines and menu at Molly’s.
The list’s whites include another of my favorites: the R de Rieussec, a dry white (Bordeaux Blanc Sec) from the famed Sauternes estate of Château Rieussec. It is a hugely flavorful blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc – and a stunning value at $9 a glass. It would work with almost anything calling for a dry white but is also great for simply sipping on its own.
Molly’s menu offers scallops, mussels, shrimp and oysters, and a bottle of the Joseph Drouhin Chablis would be a great match for any of those dishes. I love Chablis – real Chablis made from Chardonnay grapes grown in the region of Chablis, northwest of Burgundy, as this is. The crisp acidity and mostly unoaked character makes this dry white the classic balance to shellfish. It’s a superb value at $48.
Among the reds, you’ll find the most expensive by-the-glass selection: a delicious Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend from Château La Fleur Saint Georges in the Bordeaux region of Lalande de Pomerol. If you are having the lamb, duck or beef at Molly’s, go with this wine – it’s what Merlot is meant to be. No list of reds would be complete without a Pinot Noir, as it complements a very wide range of foods, and one of California’s most dependable labels is available by the glass: the Steele Carneros Pinot Noir. This would work very well with anything from the roasted chicken to the pork chop.
Molly’s setting is casual, but I wish someone had taken a less casual approach to the list’s presentation: There are at least 15 wines spelled incorrectly, which is far too many. Still, it’s nice see to such great wines so thoughtfully matched with the cuisine.
To read Michael Renner’s review of Molly’s in Soulard’s fare, visit Gourmet Guru in the reviews section.
This article appears in Nov 1-30, 2009.
