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It should come as no surprise that one of our region’s newest steakhouses, Prime 1000, offers a wine list of over 80 selections. What is surprising is that the selection is encouragingly diverse with very fair pricing. It is instantly obvious when reading a wine list whether the author looks not only at compatibility with the menu, but also compatibility with the restaurant’s patrons.

Three whites and six reds by the glass is a bit limited, especially considering the range of bottle wines listed. Although reds dominate – by a 2-to-1 ratio – the whites on the list are interesting. One of my favorite parts of this list is the Chardonnay selection, which features just six wines ranging from $35 to $78; all are well chosen and the selection offers something for most Chardonnay tastes. The Fess Parker Santa Barbara Chardonnay is a superb value at $35.

Other exciting whites include the Groth Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley ($38) and the Domaine LaRoche Chablis ($48), both exquisite choices for oysters. Six sparkling wines from California and France are included, with several in the $30 to $45 range, including one of my favorite bubbles, the Domaine Chandon Rosé ($45) from the French-owned winery in Napa Valley. This pink sparkler will work with anything on the appetizer menu, and is a great pairing with the Cobb salad.

One of America’s top Rieslings is the Long Shadow Poet’s Leap ($40) from Washington’s Columbia Valley of Washington. Its light sweetness has great range for pairing purposes – this is another stunning complement to nearly any type of salad. Two other whites that captured my interest were the finest Viognier that I’ve ever had from Napa, the incredibly deep and rich Darioush – not inexpensive at $85, but it delivers more excitement than anything on a Chardonnay list. This is also the first local list that I have seen that offers a wine from the growing Arizona wine industry, from the Stronghold Winery ($38). Unfortunately, no Missouri wines were on the list.

Reds in every varietal category were well planned. Ponzi Pinot Noir from Oregon is a stunner at $65; it’s just waiting to go with the menu’s roast chicken. Two Chilean Merlots and a section of Argentine Malbec, including the Tikal Amorio at $60, give the diner solid choices from the newly popular varietals.

Nearly 30 Cabernet Sauvignon and Meritage options offer diners plenty of choices to pair with meat entrées. The Trinchero Chicken Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon from the Rutherford area in Napa Valley is one of the great bargains on the list at $58. Although there are several offerings in the $100 to $290 range, Prime 1000 has chosen to offer a carefully crafted list of impressive wines in the moderate price range.

Other than a few too many typos, this is a wine list worthy of a drive downtown.

To read Michael Renner’s take on Prime 1000’s menu, visit Gourmet Guru in the Reviews section.

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Glenn is wine director at Annie Gunn’s and The Smokehouse Market. He has been a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board for 30 years, taught at St. Louis Community College for 15 years and is a certified...