I often find that a shorter list of well-priced wines is a reflection of more care and attention than many larger lists full of triple digit offerings. This is certainly true at Terrene.
Almost evenly split between white and red, this list of about 60 wines has something to please just about anyone. As always, I began with a sparkling wine, in this case a Toso Brut from the Mendoza region of Argentina. Although it’s tank-fermented, this fairly dry blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc is very nice. A nice size serving was only $8 and made my hand-cut fries very happy. The other sparkling that caught my attention was the Bouvet Brut Rosé from Saumur in the Loire Valley of central France. Pink “Champagnes” are becoming very popular, but true French Rosé Champagne will cost three to four times the $40 bottle price of the Bouvet. This is a great bubbly Cabernet Franc.
The Box Car Rosé, a pretty in pink blend of Syrah and Pinot Noir, was deliciously dry and a perfect match for the veggie sausage flatbread. Most of us wine-geek types really enjoy rosés year-round, not just during the months without an “r” in them.
Two whites by the glass demonstrated the wide range of dry whites. White Truck Sauvignon Blanc was a wonderfully crisp dry white with no oak; it’s made from organically grown grapes from Lake County in Northern California. It was certainly a good value at $8 per glass and a perfect intro to the Hangtime Chardonnay from California’s Central Coast, which, at $10, was the most expensive glass pour. This has a noticeable level of oak – it’s more enjoyable for sipping on its own than pairing with food.
The organization of the list was exceptionally user-friendly. Whites were categorized by “light + fruity,” “minerally + crisp,” and “big + buttery.” Bottles topped out at $60 (whites) and at $79 (reds). It was very easy to cruise through the choices as we enjoyed several of the appetizers. Reds had the headings of “light + fruity” and “big + intense.”
When dessert time came, it was suggested that we try the funnel cake – one of my favorite comfort foods. My only dilemma was what wine to have with the funnel cake and vanilla ice cream with raspberry sauce. But the Torbreck Bothie listed on the dessert menu started talking to me. It was a good choice: The raspberry sauce began holding hands and slow dancing immediately with this beautiful sweet Australian Muscat.
While the wine experience at Terrene is superb overall, I would have liked a few more choices by the glass. There are 11 selections, with only four of those being red. But a creative and seasonal specialty cocktail list rounds things out with nine offerings, including two of the leading liqueurs in this new age of mixed drinks, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur and St.-Germain Elderflower Liqueur.
No wine list review from me would be complete without a comment on availability of local wines. I was very happy to see that Stone Hill Blanc de Blancs Brut and Bethlehem Valley Norton were both offered on Terrene’s thoughtful list.
To read Michael Renner’s review of Terrene’s cuisine, visit Gourmet Guru in the reviews section.
This article appears in Oct 1-31, 2009.
