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argyros assyrtiko santorini 2012 Credit: thomas martinsen for unsplash

After attending a memorable St. Louis Symphony performance recently, my wife and I stopped at Olympia Kebob House and Taverna to cure a craving for saganaki, a seductive flaming cheese dish. Looking for a simple, crisp dry white, I connected with Argyros Assyrtiko Santorini 2012. I’ve been a fan of the whites of Santorini for many years, but on this particular night, my socks were blown off. The wine was clear, fresh and bright, and its high acidity was the perfect match for the cheese-on-fire appetizer. Next time you eat Greek, make room on the table for this white goddess.

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Glenn is wine director at Annie Gunn’s and The Smokehouse Market. He has been a member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board for 30 years, taught at St. Louis Community College for 15 years and is a certified...