Apr 1-30, 2008

Apr 1-30, 2008

Recipe Upon Recipe: What makes cookbook collectors tick

If a recipe calls for Jell-O or MSG, you can bet it comes from a cookbook of yesteryear. Some people collect vintage volumes along with new ones, whether they understand why or not. Yes, they love food. Yes, they enjoy cooking. Yet there’s more behind a person’s impulse to crowd a bookshelf. Otherwise, why not…

He Said | She Said: The crabbier the better

It’s probably no revelation that crab Rangoon isn’t an Asian dish. After all, how many cheesy Chinese foods can you name? The exact origins of this American appetizer, most popular in Eastern and Midwestern states, are debatable. Some sources give “Trader Vic” Bergeron credit, while others suggest it came to be right here in St.…

Recipe: Trattoria Marcella’s Lobster Risotto

You’ve got your toasted ravs, sure. Gooey butter cake, OK. But when it comes to St. Louis foods, Trattoria Marcella’s Lobster Risotto tops the list, hands down. What other dish has achieved such fame without once appearing on a menu? The Komorek brothers first ran this elegant twist on the Italian classic as a 1995…

Review: Cielo Restaurant & Bar in St. Louis

At night, the first thing you notice when driving up to the Four Seasons Hotel – the sparkling luxury hotel sitting atop the equally upscale Lumière Place Casino – is the 650-foot ribbon of color emanating from the building’s illuminated tower, casting a fabric of light stretching up, over and down the edges of the…

Matters of the heart

Most vegetables are easy to approach and easy to identify. Not so the artichokes, which come with their own body armor and prickly thorns. Yes, the leaves will stab and draw blood if you are not careful. Are they worth the effort? Most definitely, because the taste of artichoke is indescribably delicious and unique. The…

Cheese, pastries and one heckuva PB&J: C’est si bon

There’s an unfair aura of pretentiousness that seems to cling to French restaurants. I blame the language. In the first place, you can hardly write about food without trotting out French words like cuisine (haute? nouvelle? Lean?) and gourmet. Then there are the dishes themselves. You sit down at a restaurant, open the menu and…

East meets West for some tasty results

Knowing a thing or two about Asian food, I was somewhat confused when I heard a new restaurant was opening in the Central West End called Banh Mi Boba. I knew banh mi was the traditional Vietnamese sandwich on a French baguette and boba was the Taiwanese boba tea. So when I found out the…

The quintessential taste of summer starts now

On my list of must-have plants in the sunny raised beds of my backyard, basil ranks second only to tomatoes. Sweet basil makes a tall backdrop for zinnias mid- to late summer. I love the contrast of hot reds, sassy oranges and dizzy pinks against the deep green crinkle of basil leaves. Like tomatoes, growing…

Slow smoking, sweet touches and sauce on the side

Step into Pappy’s Smokehouse and you’ll likely meet owner Mike Emerson, who makes it a point to greet customers at the door. He’s quick to tell you that his new barbecue restaurant near downtown is a joint effort. “We have no titles because everybody here’s on the same team,” Emerson said. “I guess if you…


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