When Atlas Restaurant first opened in 2003, chef and co-owner Michael Roberts’ only goal was to succeed at serving great food at reasonable prices. “We weren’t into that ‘get bigger as fast as you can,'” Roberts said. “We were just hoping to succeed. Once that happened, we looked around and said, ‘Hey, wait a minute! We need more room.’ Everything from stocks to sauces to desserts are made in-house, and we were feeling a little cramped.”
Roberts and his wife, co-owner Jean Donnelly, closed Atlas for six weeks to re-energize and remodel the space. “It was a lot of work, but everyone pitched in to help,” Roberts said. The dining room now seats 54, and the kitchen has introduced a new spring menu to go with the updated look.
How did you get to St. Louis? Married into it. I’ve been here about six years. Jean’s family is here, and she wanted to be near them. That, and San Francisco doesn’t need another restaurant. St. Louis allows for a more diverse crowd, especially a neighborhood base. It was great to have family to help with renovations, too.
How did you get involved in the culinary profession? I grew up in Sacramento. My mom is a wonderful cook. As I was growing up, I knew that I wanted a trade where I could at least feed myself, and a chef never goes hungry. Cooking came easily to me, so I enrolled in the City College of San
Francisco culinary [program].
What do you like most about your renovated digs? What’s not to like? Everyone – from our patrons to the busers – finally has some elbow room.
In the kitchen, we have more equipment, so we don’t feel like we have to stand in line to use the oven. The bar patrons don’t feel like they are sitting in the kitchen. The atmosphere is still cozy and intimate, yet we feel like we’ve got a mansion there’s so much more room. Patrons used to complain that they felt like they had to go through the kitchen to get to the restroom, but not anymore!
How often do you change the menu? We do a major change every season, but we may have subtle changes daily and tweak the menu as items come and go from the market. We get a newsletter from GreenLeaf Produce that’s invaluable in alerting us to what produce to order when.
What’s your favorite ingredient? I have three: olive oil, garlic and butter. Of the three, butter is probably my favorite. It carries the flavor of anything that’s added to it.
What’s on the new menu? We’ll be using all the spring vegetables as they become available. The lamb chop will have an eggplant fritter with feta cheese. We’re making some mild variations to the desserts, chicken, pork chop and duck confit. Also, we are reintroducing the goat cheese flan.
What one item stands out? We had a spring garlic soup, which uses mild, young garlic. The season is very short, because by summer, the garlic becomes, well, garlic.
Where do you get new ideas? The usual places: cookbooks, television, magazines. I have a large cookbook library. It’s not quite as big as the entire University City library, but close. I’ve been known to buy a cookbook because one recipe grabbed my attention. I also enjoy reading the San Francisco Chronicle. I can keep up with what’s going on out there food- and people-wise. I like keeping track of where old friends are.
What’s one ingredient we won’t find in your kitchen? Margarine. I’d rather go out of business than have that in my dishes.
What advice would you give to an aspiring chef? Go to school and get a good foundation. Then get hired at the best restaurant you can and continue your education by learning from everyone around you. Be prepared for long hours. Travel as much as you can; it broadens your horizons.
What was your biggest flop? There have been a lot, but nothing was so bad that it made it out of the kitchen. With three chefs back there – me, Jean and Bob Whitehead – that’s a hard thing to pinpoint.
What’s the biggest risk you’ve taken? Opening Atlas. It was the culmination of Jean’s and [my] culinary careers. With both of us being in the business, we didn’t have a lot of start-up costs. Especially less than if we stayed in the San Francisco area.
Atlas is open late on weekends for desserts and appetizers. What’s the most popular? For desserts, it’s marjolaine, a floating island of hazelnut and almond meringue layered with crème fraîche and dark chocolate. On the appetizer side, [this winter it was] duck confit served over, usually, brussels sprouts.
What makes Atlas stand apart from other St. Louis restaurants? We are a true bistro. I know that’s an overused expression, but we fit the definition: a small, informal restaurant that serves wine.
We have honest, decent food based on Italian and French foods. We’re not fancy. We’re neighborhood-friendly. We have a big storefront so that passersby can see what’s going on inside, and we have
outdoor seating.
This article appears in May 1-31, 2006.