You have worked at a few other Four Seasons locations, in Maui as well as the Regent Beverly Wilshire in L.A. What do you like about working in St. Louis? The people here are more relaxed. The building itself is beautiful. Seeing the city at night in winter is beautiful. And valet parking is free if you dine here.
Did you change the entire menu since coming aboard? There is nothing left of the old menu. … It’s good for customers to realize we work with seasonal food. And we started working with the larger local purveyors: Sunfarm – they are doing organic, Middendorf for grass-fed beef, Ozark Forest Mushrooms. It will take a little time, but I want to work with more local places.
Your insalata Cesare is unusual: grilled baby romaine served in a basket and guests dip the leaves in your version of a Caesar dressing, which is citrusy and not-too-fishy. But why put Caesar salad on the menu when that doesn’t exist in Italy? We are in a hotel. Most people ask for that and I have to cater to local and hotel guests. So, I figure, let’s make something a little fun and unusual that people will remember.
What are a few of the dishes you make here at Cielo that we can’t find anywhere else in St. Louis? The insalata Cesare, coffee pappardelle with veal shank osso buco-style, cappesante con cannelini [sea scallops with cannellini bean ragout] – three-quarters of the menus for lunch and dinner, I haven’t seen our variation around [town].
Your pancetta mashed potatoes – the side dish for the grilled pork chop with roasted squash – are delicious. What’s the secret to such savory mashed potatoes since you didn’t use butter or milk? Mascarpone and pancetta. When the mascarpone melts it becomes like butter. The fat content is higher but adds flavor. The pancetta gives the saltiness. So, sweet and salty – oh, and I also like to put nutmeg in mashed potatoes.
This article appears in Dec 1-31, 2010.