The Puglia region of Italy is situated on the Adriatic Sea in Italy’s boot heel, and like other Italian regions, this picturesque locale has a distinct culinary heritage that the editors of The Silver Spoon Series attempted to capture in Puglia. Loving the idea of a simple Mediterranean pasta, I opted for the Fusilli con la Mollica, which essentially translates to twisty pasta and croutons.
With only seven ingredients including a healthy portion of pecorino cheese and anchovies melted in oil, I expected a rich, deeply-flavored, slightly salty bowl. Instead it fell flat, monotone with a bit of an unpleasant funk. I lay the fault for this strange flavor profile directly on the shoulders of the oil. The recipe called for two tablespoons vegetable oil, which did the job of melting the anchovies, but it did not impart the flavor that an olive oil or butter might have. The addition of some garlic, red pepper flake or a squeeze of lemon juice might have added some much-needed oomph.
All in all, this recipe was easy, the ingredients were accessible and it came together in a snap. But the results made me sad. Sad enough to drown my sorrows in a big bowl of pasta – just not this one.
Skill Level: Easy to intermediate
This book is for: People interested in learning about ingredients specific to this region of Italy and for those who can discern a good recipe before they make it, or are willing to take liberties with recipes when ingredients or instructions seem unclear.
Other recipes to try: Chard pie – at least it called for olive oil.
The Verdict: Flour + Water. Hands down. No contest.
Fusilli con la Mollica
4 servings
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Pinch of red chili powder
1 cup crustless croutons
4 salted anchovies
12 oz. fusilli pasta
¾ cup grated pecorino cheese
2 Tbsp. chopped parsley
• Heat the oil in a frying pan or skillet. When hot, add a pinch of chili powder, the croutons and anchovies, stirring until the anchovies have melted. Set aside.
• Cook the fusilli in a large saucepan of salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and tip into the anchovy mixture. Add the pecorino, then saute the pasta over a medium heat for a few minutes. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve immediately.
Reprinted with courtesy of Phaidon
This article appears in January 2016.