I’ve been curious to try Tal Ronnen’s cookbook, Crossroads, since I heard an interview with him on “The Splendid Table.” Ronnen is chef of Los Angeles eatery Crossroads, a restaurant lauded for revolutionizing plant-based dining. The dishes aren’t intentionally health-focused, nor a mash-up of Frankenfoods laden with chemicals. Only one recipe calls for tofu – and it’s not one you’d expect. Instead, you’ll find recipes for plant-forward dishes using classic cooking techniques and a few clever tricks to provide flavors and textures familiar to omnivores.
Ronnen’s recipes are clear and precise. Balsamic-roasted mushrooms with shallots and toasted Marcona almonds had a long name for a small plate, but it produced divine results. I reduced balsamic vinegar and agave syrup to make a sweet, sticky glaze that I tossed with shallots and cremini, shiitake and oyster mushrooms. The whole mixture roasted in the oven before hitting a saute pan with even more shallots, garlic, balsamic and sherry. Mixed herbs and crunchy almonds added necessary vibrancy and texture to the finished dish.
Since this is a small plate, there’s a lot of flavor packed into each bite. The balsamic glaze nearly overwhelmed the more delicate oyster and shiitake mushrooms, but bright herbs kept it from tipping into too-sweet territory. While we devoured the dish on its own, we agreed that serving it with a base – garlic toast, polenta, a bed of arugula – would have rounded it out and given those strong balsamic notes something to mingle with.
Skill level: Intermediate. While complicated recipes like artichoke “oysters” and fresh pasta dishes abound, there are plenty of simpler options available, too.
This book is for: Home cooks anxious to throw dinner parties where no one realizes the meal was vegan until the last bite of dark chocolate rice pudding.
Other recipes to try: Spaghetti Squash Noce Moscata, Roasted Fennel with Clementine Beurre Blanc and Toasted Buckwheat or Sweet Corn Risotto with Buttered Leeks, Cherry Tomatoes and Tomato-Sherry Cream Sauce
The verdict: After much debate, this dish fell just short of Battersby‘s Farfalle with Gorgonzola and Pistachios, which we felt best represented a complete dish. However, we’ll repeat this recipe and slather it atop garlic toast (or ditch the vegan concept altogether and add burrata) very soon.
Balsamic-Roasted Mushrooms with Shallots and Toasted Marcona Almonds
4 servings
Mushrooms
2 lbs. mixed mushrooms, such as cremini and shiitake, stemmed, wiped of grit, and quartered
4 large shallots, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into large slices
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup Balsamic Reduction (recipe follows)
¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup dry sherry
2 Tbsp. Balsamic Reduction (recipe follows)
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, hand-torn, plus more for garnish
¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, hand-torn, plus more for garnish
4 fresh dill sprigs, hand-torn, plus more for garnish
4 fresh chives, sliced into 1-inch pieces, plus more for garnish
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup toasted Marcona almonds, smashed with a mallet or heavy pan
• To prepare the mushrooms: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
• Put the mushrooms and shallots in a mixing bowl and drizzle with the oil. Pour in the balsamic reduction, season with the red pepper flakes, salt, and black pepper, and turn the mushrooms and shallots over so they are well coated. Spread the vegetables out in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast for 20 to 25 minutes, until they are tender and deep brown. Set aside. (The roasted mushrooms and shallots can be prepared a couple of hours in advance, covered, and held at room temperature.)
• Put a large saute pan over medium heat and coat with the oil. When the oil is hot, add the roasted mushrooms and shallots, toss in the minced shallot and garlic, and cook, stirring, until the shallot and garlic soften, about 1 minute. Add the sherry and balsamic reduction and cook, stirring, until the liquid has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the mint, parsley, dill, and chives, tossing to distribute them evenly. Season with salt and black pepper.
• Transfer to a serving bowl or individual plates and scatter the almonds on top. Top with more herbs and serve warm.
Balsamic Reduction
½ cup
½ cup agave nectar
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 shallot, halved
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Heat the agave in a small saucepan over medium-low heat until it thins out and is warmed, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and shallot and gently simmer, swirling the pan a few times, until the sauce has reduced and thickened to the consistency of maple syrup and coats the back of a spoon, about 50 minutes.
• Remove the shallot and add a good pinch each of salt and pepper. The reduction can be stored covered at room temperature for up to 3 months.
Reprinted with permission from Artisan
This article appears in April 2016.