Cindy Higgerson left a nearly 30-year career as a histotechnologist (“We’re the people who run the tests on a biopsy.”) to manage Larder & Cupboard, a new specialty food shop in Maplewood. An unexpected move? Not when you learn she’s the face behind food fanatic @MCharcuterie on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook. Meet the exuberant home cook who’s bringing boutique foodstuffs to The Lou.
Why did you leave your job to be the GM of Larder & Cupboard?
I had done it for so long. It’s not where my passion was anymore. This is like turning a hobby into a career.
Is there any connection between histotechnology and running a food shop?
The lab training relates a lot because we had to meet FDA standards, and a lot of the things you have to do for refrigerators and freezers and storing antibodies is very similar to the food industry.
How do you decide what products to carry?
It has to taste good. I’m drawn to unique ingredients, things you can’t find in St. Louis, things that I found when I traveled and love and I’m frustrated when I can’t get (them) here, (things that have) won a Good Food Award or a Sofi Award.
Does it have to be a small-batch item?
That’s definitely one of my criteria. I don’t want to call up a distributor and say, “Hey, back your truck up to my store and unload the Wind in the Willow dip mix that everyone is carrying.” I’m really drawn to the small-batch stuff, the small producer where I have to contact them directly and the same guy who makes it is packaging it, mailing it.
Why is that so enticing?
They’re following their passion. They’re putting their heart and soul in it. A lot of them are also using their local ingredients just like our local producers do.
What products at Larder & Cupboard are you most excited about?
The shrubs from Wine Forest, the syrups from Quince & Apple, P&H Soda syrups – those are small batch out of Brooklyn.
How do you find out about products?
A lot of the products I have here I tasted during my travels with my histology job. I always sought out ingredients I couldn’t get here. I would come home with tons of food product. One time, I packed my computer and all my paper stuff in my suitcase and I hand-carried $400 worth of foodstuff on the plane because I didn’t want the food to get lost if my luggage was lost.
You’ve also traveled to chef competitions in Memphis.
I went to the first Heritage BBQ and to Cochon 555, the one that Kevin Nashan (of Sidney Street Cafe) competed at and that chef Kelly English (of Restaurant Iris in Memphis) won.
What compels you to drive so far for a food event?
The caliber of chefs competing. Trying all the dishes because they do unique and fun things. I like to eat. I like to come home and re-create stuff. I’m very adventurous in the kitchen.
What’s your specialty dish?
Probably pulled pork. I make the marinade and rub from scratch. I’m a big fan of meat.
What’s the backstory on @MCharcuterie?
An ex-boyfriend gave me the nickname Madam Charcuterie because I always had stuff curing in the refrigerator. I was making gravlox, jerky. The refrigerator was full of meat brining.
This article appears in January 2015.