“Anyone can wait on one table,” said Douglas Denney, 47, a veteran server at The Crossing. “Eight, nine, 10 tables? That’s when it gets difficult.” Here, the native of Edinburgh, Scotland dishes out what he’s learned from more than 30 years spent walking restaurant floors – and why he really hopes you won’t order hot tea.
What was your first restaurant job?
For a summer job, I was a dishwasher – hand-washing, by the way. I went back the second year and was basically what they’d call the barista nowadays. Back then it was “the coffee maker.”
How did you get a job at The Crossing?
I walked in with my resume. I got lucky. It’s not easy to get in here.
What’s the staff turnover rate?
It’s nonexistent.
What type of personality makes for a good server?
Anyone can be a food delivery man. To be a good waiter, you have to have that sense of hospitality. I think some of it’s trainable, but I don’t think it all is.
Who is your favorite type of customer?
My regulars. When you look on the reservation book at night and see “Mrs. Smith requests Douglas,” it’s kind of flattering. When someone takes the time to request a particular waiter, you know you must be doing something right.
Is there a drink order you wince at?
Hot tea! Most restaurants are never set up to serve it because you don’t sell that much of it. You’ve got to get the teapot, warm it up, get the cup ready, lemons, honey or sweetener or whatever it is. So you got all these things you gotta bring in. Inevitably, someone else at the table says, “Oh, that does sound good. I think I’ll have a hot tea, too!” Hot tea – that’s the scourge for all waiters. I drink hot tea at home all the time. I’m Scottish.
Does your Scottish accent benefit you as a server?
It probably makes it easier walking up to people you don’t know if you have an accent because they want to listen to you.
What dining habit really irritates you?
Cell phones. Don’t use your cell phone in a restaurant. When you go out to dinner, interact with the people you’re having dinner with.
How do you feel about reservation no-shows?
If you’re not going to make it, just call and let us know. That way we can open the table for someone else.
Does it bother you when people show up just before the kitchen is closing?
The kitchen’s not closed yet, so it’s no big deal. If our kitchen closes at 10 o’clock and you show up at 10:30 and we’ve still got people eating and we’re still cooking in the kitchen, we’ll feed you. That’s hospitality. That’s what we do.
What should a customer do when they’ve had a poor dining experience?
Tell your waiter if there’s something wrong. If they know what they’re doing, they’ll handle it correctly, seamlessly.
What about when the server is part of the bad experience?
I’ve failed at a table. I had a table that did a grand tasting menu, and I forgot to fire the dessert. I got so overtaken by tables that it just didn’t happen. They paid their bill and called back the next day. We all make mistakes. What we try to do when we make mistakes is fix it. Did I fix that? No. But it’ll never happen again.
What’s the hardest part about keeping customers happy?
I don’t think it’s hard when you enjoy doing what you do. The actual dealing with the guest is not hard. It’s a lot harder physically, especially when you get older, than most people would think. Ten to 12 hours on your feet – that’s the tough part of the job.
What’s your post-shift routine?
A small glass of wine or a beer and go home. Compare that to 20 years ago … I’m too old for that.
This article appears in November 2014.