Parenting is like roller-skating on an ice rink most of the time, and dining out with kids can be like trying to catch a couple of greased pigs … on an ice rink … while wearing roller skates. So if you’re a bit nervous about going out with the kids to a restaurant where your food doesn’t come wrapped in paper, we understand. We’ve been there. We’ve also been to Land of Smile.
Doesn’t that sound nice, like some pleasant destination from a child’s book? In fact, “Land of Smiles” is a nickname for Thailand, and therefore an apt inspiration for the pleasant destination that is Land of Smile restaurant.
On Olive, tucked back near the Olivette post office, Land of Smile is anything but pretentious. The space is open and tastefully decorated; the boys quickly noticed the elephant figurines placed throughout the dining room.
A brief kids’ menu provided entrées for the boys, but what elicited the first of our many smiles was a kids’ drink menu. There, below a selection of fancy cocktails for grown-ups were classic kiddie cocktails: the Roy Rogers and the Shirley Temple. Brendan ordered a Roy Rogers, but Duncan settled for just a soda; he regretted it immediately when Brendan’s drink came in a real glass, with a paper umbrella and a cherry.
There was no time for regrets, though, as our entrées appeared promptly. Brendan got an order of fried rice; Duncan got fried shrimp – both dishes earned thumbs up from the boys, though Kathy and I were a bit disappointed that neither dish offered any options for vegetables.
Kathy’s Pataya Shrimp had no such lack; it featured big chunks of celery, carrot and onion mixed with plump shrimp in a bright orange curry sauce. My Masaman Curry was an ideal blend of spicy and creamy, with tender pieces of chicken and potatoes, and a playful crunch of peanuts.
On our next trip, we pounced on the appetizer menu and settled on the Thai spring roll, which conveniently included four pieces. They were crispy and flavorful, if surprisingly small.
This time, Duncan smartly picked a Roy Rogers. Brendan chose the Shirley Temple just to be different, but then both boys ordered the fried shrimp, despite our encouragement to try something new.
Kathy took a more adventurous tack, with the sweet and sour tamarind fish and a creamy Thai iced tea. The fish was perfectly fried in a very light batter, which stayed crisp despite a generous lashing of fruity sauce. One word of advice to those who are unfamiliar: The dried red chile pods that come with the dish are only for the adventurous – be sure to pluck them out if you don’t want a tongue-blistering surprise. My barbecue pork noodle soup was mellower fare, with tender slices of pork, bean sprouts and seemingly thousands of slender noodles in a garlicky broth.
With time for dessert this visit, Kathy and the boys shared an order of fried banana with ice cream – a pair of rolled rice flour wrappers stuffed with banana and fried to a crisp, served over ice cream with several chunks of pineapple tossed in for an extra treat. The boys ended up in a duel of spoons to see who could get the last trickles of ice cream from the bottom of the glass.
The casual atmosphere of Land of Smile is a great segue from chain and primarily carryout restaurants into something a little more classy. The food is exceptional, with distinctly fresh ingredients and thoughtful preparation and presentation; an order of Fresh Rolls (similar to typical Vietnamese spring rolls, served cold) going to a neighboring table caught my eye, because they were sliced in half and served on end – like sushi – which brought out the bright colors of the shrimp, carrots and Thai basil tucked inside.
But at the same time, the restaurant proudly asserts its kid-friendliness, with a kids’ menu that’s got some familiar selections and the clever selection of special drinks just for the younger set. That kind of thoughtfulness scores big points with parents – and kids, too.
Beyond Chicken Fingers: A lack of veggies on the kids’ menu was a bit frustrating, but fried rice and shrimp offer something a little outside the norm.
Extra Credit: Kids’ cocktails and paper umbrellas! The food may be great, but this is what your kids will remember.
Recess: A game of “count the elephants” is just waiting to happen. I guarantee your food will come before you find them all.
Parent Pluses: The menu sports grown-up cocktails too; Thai coffee and traditional desserts like black rice pudding add an exotic touch.
ADVENTURES IN FAMILY DINING Where: Land of Smile, 9641 Olive Blvd., Olivette, 314.989.9878
When: Lunch: Mon. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. to Fri. – 4 to 9 p.m., Sat. – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sun. – 4 to 8 p.m.
This article appears in May 1-31, 2009.