Nestled near the historic Anheuser-Busch Brewery at 2727 S. 12th St., Antagonist Cafe has brought an edgy new vibe to south Soulard, offering a dark, moody ambiance and signature coffee that aims to become the next local favorite. As the edgy counterpart to the bright and airy Protagonist Cafe, which has been a north Soulard staple since 2019, Antagonist delivers the same exceptional coffee and pastries with an added twist.
“We’ve had requests for more savory options at Protagonist,” shared co-owner Laura Leister. “So, here at Antagonist, we’re introducing new menu items, like freshly baked focaccia.” In addition to its familiar offerings, the cafe also features an on-site coffee roastery. “When you walk in, you’ll see the roaster to your right,” Leister explained. “You can watch us roast beans weekly, which will supply both cafes and our board game bar, Pieces.” This addition also paves the way for Antagonist to expand into retail coffee sales, broadening its community reach.
The cafe’s design is just as compelling as its menu. Housed in a former police station built in 1937, Antagonist retains much of its original art deco charm, with terrazzo flooring, ornate brass fixtures and marble accents blending seamlessly with modern updates. “We’ve transformed four original jail cells into cozy, private nooks,” Leister noted. “While some may find the few remaining jail cells odd, we wanted to preserve the building’s 100-year-old architecture and make something positive out of its past, respectfully reclaiming it for the community.”
Leister describes Antagonist’s aesthetic as “moody and edgy.” With dimmer lighting and bold design elements, the cafe stands in stark contrast to Protagonist’s cheerful brightness. Despite these differences, the two cafes maintain a playful rivalry. “We’ll have dueling drink specials and fun marketing campaigns where Antagonist will cheekily claim to be the better coffee shop,” Leister said with a laugh.
Beyond its unique atmosphere, Antagonist has a broader vision: to connect the Benton Park and Soulard neighborhoods. “We hope the renovations and the cafe’s inviting atmosphere will help bring the two communities together,” stated Leister. That vision will expand in January when Pieces, the owners’ popular board game bar, relocates to the same building. Together, these two ventures promise to create a vibrant community hub where coffee, conversation and creativity can flourish.
With its distinctive vibe, innovative offerings and deep community ties, Antagonist Cafe is more than just a coffee shop – it’s an experience. Whether you’re savoring focaccia or watching beans roast before your eyes, Antagonist offers a story worth sipping. Follow along on Instagram for updates, and join the friendly rivalry by visiting both locations.
This article appears in December 2024.