Welcome to the new By the Book, where the Sauce editors choose a monthly theme and pit cookbooks in a head-to-head battle to see who comes out on top. And the winner? We hand the champion over to you in a By the Book Facebook giveaway. This month, we’re tackling all things sweet. Last week, we baked up a Blueberry Apple Pie from Pastry by Nick Malgieri. Next up: Chocolate Chip Sweets by Tracey Zabar.
Chocolate Chip Sweets: Favorite Recipes from Celebrated Chefs has a wonderful theme: chocolate chips in everything. The recipes come from different chefs including Thomas Keller and Marea’s Michael White, and some of the recipes come from the writer, Tracey Zabar.
The recipe I chose was chocolate pot de crème with salted peanut crumble. Usually I love a pot de crème, but to be frank, this recipe from Matthew Neele of Wallsé just didn’t work. Its instructions lacked detail; for example, it tells the readers to make a custard, but makes no mention of what temperature the stove should be at, how long it to complete the task or how to temper the eggs. Speaking of eggs, the 20-serving recipe called for 10 egg yolks and five additional eggs – I couldn’t properly thicken the custard over heat without scrambling.
Even after refrigeration, the pots de crème never set. The end result was akin to a rich melted chocolate ice cream topped with crunchy salted peanuts. It was delicious, but the texture was far too viscous. I wouldn’t make it again, and I’d be nervous to try other recipes from the book given the lack of detailed instruction.
The Rundown Skill level: Advanced. Since the recipe instructions are inconsistent, beginner bakers may struggle.
This book is for: People who love chocolate, especially in chip form.
Other recipes to try: Sicilian Pistachio Torta with a chocolate chip filling
The verdict: Pastry beats this book. No matter how much I love chocolate desserts, the recipes have to be clear and they have to work. This one didn’t.
Chocolate Pot de Crème with Salted Peanut Crumble 20 servings
Chocolate pudding:
7½ oz. (1¼ cups) dark chocolate, such as Valrhona Manajari, coarsely chopped
3 cups heavy cream
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean
10 large egg yolks
5 large eggs
• Place 20 small coffee cups or mini parfait glasses on your work surface.
• In a heatproof bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, place the chocolate, and set aside.
• In a medium saucepan, combine the cream and sugar. With a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the pan. Add the bean, and simmer.
• In a medium bowl, mix the egg yolks and eggs until combined. Now slowly add the egg mixture to the simmering cream and stir continuously, making sure not to curdle the eggs. Remove and discard the vanilla bean. Once the cream thickens, pour it over the reserved chocolate, and whisk at low speed until light and fluffy.
• Pour the pudding onto the prepared coffee cups or mini parfait glasses, and place in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 hours, until firm.
Salted Peanut Crumble
4 oz. (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup milk solids (powdered milk)
1 cup crushed peanuts
1 Tbsp. Maldon sea salt
Bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips or curls, for garnish
• Preheat the oven to 325. Line a half-sheet pan with a piece of parchment paper and set aside.
• In a small, deep saucepan, melt the butter. Add the milk solids and stir until combined and golden brown.
• Scrape the mixture onto the prepared pan. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove the crumble from the oven and let cool completely on the pan. Add in the peanuts and salt. Spoon a bit of this crumble on top of each pudding and garnish with chocolate chips. Now grab a spoon and put your phone on silent.
Reprinted with permission from Rizzoli International Publications
This article appears in October 2015.