I was curious about Lisa Fain’s second cookbook The Homesick Texan’s Family Table: Lone Star Cooking from My Kitchen to Yours because the same week it landed on Sauce’s bookshelf, Fain’s blog Homesick Texan was nominated for a James Beard Foundation Award for individual food blog. Fain’s blog is reminiscent of Deb Perelman’s The Smitten Kitchen: recipes and anecdotes written by a likeable-sounding lady who lives in New York City, cooks in a small kitchen and takes impressive pictures of her creations.
But mostly I chose Fain’s new cookbook because I’m moving to Texas in about a month, and while I’m sure the Lone Star state is just great, I need a little persuasion regarding the move. Reading about the state from someone who makes a living out of her homesickness for the place seemed like a good start in the pro-Texas propaganda department.
The 125-recipe book is organized by breakfast and breads, starters and snacks, salads and sides, and so on and so forth. Between the sections are full-spread, beautiful scenic photographs of an almost mythical version of Texas: fields of bluebonnets, never-ending blue skies, grassy plains and so many cows. The recipes are all supposed to be Texas comfort food – the type of food a Texan grows up eating at a big family potluck.
Since April has decided to truly become the cruelest month with this week’s freezing temperatures, instead of fun outdoor barbecue fair, I flipped to the chilis, soups and stews section. I decided on this Mexican lime soup because in Fain’s introduction to the recipe, she writes that her friend from San Antonio (where I’m headed) grew up eating this dish.
I was also attracted to the soup because it looked easy and featured tons of fun spices and my favorite green ingredients: avocados, limes and cilantro.
I was slightly intimidated making the tortilla strips because I create a huge mess whenever I fry anything, but these turned out to be simple and fairly mess-free. I was too hungry to roast a chicken and then pull it, so I cooked some chicken breasts in my Dutch oven with a little water and olive oil, and they turned out great. If you’re feeling extra pressed for time, just buy a roasted bird at the store, but get an unseasoned one so as to not mess with the other flavors … and Texas.
In total, this took less than 20 minutes, including cooking the chicken. The resulting soup was bright, refreshing and simply divine. In cold April weather, it’s actually the perfect dish. While the soup is still warm and comforting, it’s not a heavy stew that you’re probably bored with after our epic winter. In short, while I’m not yet sold on Texas, I’m certainly sold on this soup.
Sopa de Lima (Mexican Lime Soup) Oil, for frying
6 corn tortillas, preferably stale
1 yellow onion, quartered
10 gloves garlic
8 cups chicken broth
½ tsp. dried oregano
½ tsp. ground allspice
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. ground cumin
Pinch of cayenne
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tsp. lime zest
2 cups shredded cooked chicken
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¼ cup fresh lime juice
Garnishes ½ cup (2 oz.) shredded Monterey Jack cheese
2 jalapenos, stemmed, seeded and diced
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 avocado, pitted, peeled and cubed
1 lime, cut into slices
• Heat ½ cup of the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat until a candy thermometer reads 350 degrees.
• Line a baking sheet with paper towels.
• Slice the tortillas into strips ¼ inch thick. Add the tortilla strips to the hot oil and cook until crisp, about 1 minute. Drain on the paper towels.
• Place the quartered onion and garlic under the broiler. Cook until blackened, about 10 minutes, turning once.
• Combine the onion and garlic in a blender or food processor along with 1 cup of the broth. Purée until smooth, then pour into a large pot.
• Add the remaining 7 cups of chicken broth to the pot, and stir in the oregano, allspice, cinnamon, cumin, cayenne, cilantro and lime zest.
• Bring to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the shredded chicken and cook for 5 more minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Adjust the seasonings, then stir in the lime juice.
• Garnish each bowl with tortilla chips, Monterey Jack, jalapenos, cilantro, avocado and lime slices.
Reprinted with permission from Ten Speed Press. What’s your favorite dish that one of your family members is the only one who can make just right? Tell us about it in the comments below for a chance to win a copy of The Homesick Texan’s Family Table. And now, we’d like to congratulate Dan, whose comment on last week’s By the Book column has won a copy of Down South: Bourbon, Pork & Gulf Shrimp and Second Helpings of Everything. Dan, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew.
This article appears in April 2014.