I am a devout carnivore. Some of my fondest memories involve the sweet sizzle as a thick hunk of meat hits a hot grill. I will put up a fight for the crispy skin or burnt ends — or worse, steal them before anyone notices. My stomach growls at the smell of charcoal, even if I just ate.
Chef and TV personality Michael Symon gets me. He released his homage to all things meat in Michael Symon’s Carnivore: 120 Recipes for Meat Lovers. But there’s more to this cookbook than steaks and chicken breasts. Each protein receives its own chapter, and while the traditional American beef, chicken and pork recipes get their due, he also encourages trying more daunting fare. If you ever had the desire to braise lamb necks, make duck pastrami or tackle head cheese, Symon has you covered. Beyond recipes, he explains how to purchase meat and what all the verbage cluttering meat labels (Prime versus Choice, grass-fed versus grain-fed) actually means.
Symon’s Grilled Chicken Thighs with Peaches, Mint and Almonds is inexpensive, fresh and guaranteed to fill up a crowd. Skin-on thighs marinade in smoked paprika and toasted coriander. Symon recommends searing them off with a little olive oil over direct heat for two minutes; I had to tame the coals with a water bottle, and the thighs still crisped up in just one minute. My advice: skip the oil and let the chicken fat do the work.
While the chicken cooked, I sliced up juicy summer peaches (while trying not to devour them, a true test of willpower) and tossed them with peppery arugula, bright mint and lime. Be sure to top the chicken with the salad as soon as it flies off the grill; the arugula wilts a bit and the peaches warm just slightly. I served this heaping platter of summer at the table with warm biscuits and let everyone help themselves.
Michael Symon’s Grilled Chicken Thighs with Peaches, Mint and Almonds 10 Servings
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, toasted and ground (I used ground coriander.)
1 Tbsp. smoked paprika
Kosher salt for seasoning
10 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
½ cup red onion, thinly sliced
6 peaches, pitted and each cut into 8 pieces
1 jalapeño, seeds and ribs removed, minced
Grated zest and juice of 2 limes
2 cups arugula
1 cup thinly sliced fresh mint
1/2 cup Marcona almonds, chopped
• Combine the coriander, paprika and 1 tablespoon of salt in a large zip-top bag. Add the chicken thighs, turn to coat on all sides and refrigerate overnight.
• Allow the chicken to come to room temperature 30 minutes before cooking. Pat the chicken dry.
• Heat a charcoal or gas grill so that one side is medium-high and the other very low.
• Brush the chicken thighs with a little olive oil and put them skin-side-down on the hot side of the grill. Cover the grill. After 2 minutes, remove the lid, flip the chicken, and put it on the cooler side of the grill. Put the lid back on and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the chicken hits an internal temperature of 160 degrees.
• Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the onion, peaches and jalapeño. In a separate bowl, whisk together the lime zest and juice, ¼ cup olive oil and a good pinch of salt. Pour the dressing over the peaches and gently toss to combine. Add the arugula, mint and almonds and toss once or twice.
• To serve, put the chicken thighs on a large platter. Top with the peach mixture and serve immediately.
Reprinted with permission from Clarkson Potter Publishers What is your go-to meat to grill in the summer? Let us know in the comments below for a chance to win a copy of Carnivore by Michael Symon. We’ll announce the winner in next week’s By the Book column. And now, we’d like to congratulate Yasmin, whose comment on last week’s By the Book has won her a copy of Home Made Summer by Yvette Van Boven. Yasmin, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew.
This article appears in July 2013.