Before learning who the author Claire Ptak was, or noticing that the forward was written by the famous Alice Waters, I chose The Violet Bakery Cookbook because it is beautiful. Its bright, colorful photos of the entire baking process – from piles of fresh fruit to crumb-ridden, half-cleared tables – made me want to get in a (Kinfolk-styled) kitchen and bake (wearing a very expensive apron). Based on the recipes used in Ptak’s London bakery, the book offers savory and sweet options for any meal. Most will probably call your name while flipping through the book, but don’t let the apparently effortless rosewater madelines tumbling out of their charmingly worn molds fool you. These recipes are complicated, written by a professional who doesn’t need to wash her own dishes.
I chose to bake the olive oil sweet wine cake because it was sadly too late for many of the fresh summer fruit options, but it seemed too soon for molasses recipes. It also sounded simple and more approachable than say, apricot kernel upside-down cake. When I read how many components I’d have to whip separately, I felt less affection for Ptak and her wild blackberry-picking jaunts in the English countryside. “All our lemons at Violet come from the Amalfi coast of Italy.” I’m so happy for you, Ptak.
But once I accepted that I’d be reducing the wine, separating the eggs and folding things into other things, cake-baking became more enjoyable. Though some steps seemed entirely unnecessary (like measuring ½ cup sugar into two separate bowls only to dump them into other bowls immediately), as a whole, every painstaking detail showed itself in the complex sweetness and silky crumb of this delightful cake. It can be eaten for breakfast, an afternoon snack or an evening dessert. It can stand on its own, be accompanied by the berries and whipped cream Ptak recommends, or I’m planning on making a chocolate sauce for my next go-round. Yes, I will make this cake again, and you should too. Put on some music, cancel your plans, and enjoy the process.
The Rundown Skill level: Intermediate. The recipes are complicated, but the clear instructions should get most bakers through without a hitch.
This book is for: People who value taking the time to do things right as much as getting a final product, and/or those willing to do the hard work necessary for the best final product.
Other recipes to try: Wild blackberry crumble tart and apricot kernel upside-down cake
The verdict: This book beats Sarabeth’s Good Morning Cookbook soundly. The crumb cake had great texture, but suffered from bad cook time directions and couldn’t touch the flavor of Ptak’s cake.
Olive Oil Sweet Wine Cake Makes one 23-cm (9 inch) cake, which serves 8 to 10
150g (2/3 cup) sweet white wine, such as Moscato d’Asti or Sauternes
1 tablespoon honey
zest of 1 small orange
50g (3 tablespoons) vegetable oil
150g (2/3 cup) mild olive oil
200g (1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
4 eggs, separated
200g (1 cup) sugar
oil, for greasing the pan
whipped cream, for serving
berries, for serving
• Preheat your oven to 170 degrees C/340 degrees F (150 degrees C/300 degrees F convection). Brush a deep 23-centimeter (9-inch) cake pan with oil and line the bottom with parchment paper.
• In a small heavy-bottomed pan, reduce the wine over medium heat by two-thirds until you have 50 grams (¼ cup). You can roughly eyeball this, but do weigh it before you add it to the cake mixture. Take off the heat and then add the honey and orange zest. Set aside to cool.
• Measure out the two oils into a jug and set aside. Measure the flour, salt, and baking powder into a bowl and whisk together, then set aside.
• Separate the eggs, placing the yolks in one bowl and the whites in another. Take two more bowls and measure out 100 grams (½ cup) sugar into each bowl. Add the sugar from one bowl to the yolks and whisk together immediately or it will become grainy. Use a stand mixer on high speed, if you have one, so that you can get the yolks pale and fluffy and forming ribbons. Lower the speed to medium and continue whisking as you slowly pour in the oils, as if forming a mayonnaise. Once all the oil is incorporated, turn up the speed for a minute or so. Gradually whisk in the reduced wine mixture.
• Sift the flour mixture over the oil mixture and gently fold it together. Now in a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites with the remaining 100 grams (½ cup) sugar until they form soft peaks. Fold them gently into the yolk mixture and pour into your prepared cake pan. Smooth the top with an icing spatula or rubber spatula and bake the cake in the middle of the oven for 50 to 60 minutes, or until set and springy and an inserted skewer comes out clean.
• Allow the cake to cool completely before turning it out of the pan. Serve with lightly whipped cream and berries. This cake is also delicious the following day.
Reprinted with permission from 10 Speed Press
This article appears in October 2015.