If you ever find yourself in downtown Clayton needing a unique housewarming gift, a tuna salad sandwich on whole wheat, a prescription refill, organic face wash or a ginger-pear phosphate, we suggest a visit to Jennifer’s Pharmacy. Set up like an old-fashioned lunch counter with stools and mirrors and a popcorn machine, this joint is not to be missed when looking for something quick, cheap and fun.
The serving sizes of sandwiches and dogs are relatively small so as to allow room for at least one of the shakes, malts and phosphates that fill an entire side of the menu. But while selections from the soda fountain menu are certainly must-haves, we recommend diving in to some of the savory fare that has made Jennifer’s so convenient and popular.
Sandwiches are offered on honey-wheat, white, low-carb whole-grain or the new “energy” bread, all of which are excellent, and chips (also all natural) accompany every order whether you like it or not.
The meatloaf sandwich is substantial and flavorful, but it’s not the thick, juicy, filling stuff many meatloaf connoisseurs may be used to. For starters, it’s sliced thin and doesn’t hold together too well. It’s also very sweet and not too saucy. Upgrading to the meatloaf melt solves this minor problem nicely: A gooey grilled cheese envelopes the hunk of meat, which is then topped with ketchup. It’s definitely the tastier alternative to its more conservative cousin.
One of the most-ordered items is the chicken salad sandwich, made with chunks of all-white meat, mayonnaise, celery, and salt and pepper. While it is overly creamy, it isn’t overly salty, and the wheat bread is just sweet enough to add a bit of balance to the overall experience. In the same vein is the tuna salad, which, save for the hard-boiled egg’s saltiness, is barely discernible from the chicken salad when tasted side by side. Both are great for a hot day and are best when served on toast and topped with tomato and fresh green lettuce.
The big-but-not-too-big hot dogs come in three styles on poppy-seed buns: regular, chili or Chicago. OK, so there aren’t those little insanely hot peppers or the oddly green relish, but Jennifer’s does its best on the Chicago dog with the pickle and the celery salt, creating a decent rendition of the all-American treat. And even though you may have a hankering for some chili on that wiener, skip it; it’s one of the only things not made in-house, and it shows.
The grilled cheese may be the most-treasured dish here. It’s made with organic American cheese instead of that greasy Kraft stuff. When the soda jerk ladies list the bread choices, they’ll also insist this sandwich is better when made with tomato. When they suggest it, just say “yes, please.” Then consider also adding a few slices of bacon.
And, finally, this place couldn’t be a St. Louis staple unless it served Gus’ pretzel sticks and a sandwich featuring Braunschweiger – that deliciously salty, pâté-like spread – made “old-school style” in South City at G&W Sausage Co. It’s topped with any condiment you please, and works best (gulp) on toasted white bread.
The hospitality and service at Jennifer’s is as good as the food, and the quirky, cheery, hardworking women who run the place create a general small-town soda fountain vibe. You’re always greeted with a smile and released with a compliment. But if you really want to see them perform, order the Flying Monkey sundae or shake (bananas, chocolate syrup, whipped cream, nuts and a cherry) to see them fling a stuffed monkey in a cape across the room. It’s a real treat. And so is a visit to Jennifer’s Pharmacy.
FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS Dine-In-Ability: Stool seating only. Grab yours quick or be prepared to stand while sipping your phosphate.
Try It, You’ll Like It: Grilled cheese with tomato and a lime phosphate.
Feast or Famine: Although the menu is rather small, everyone can find something.
Where: Jennifer’s Pharmacy & Soda Shoppe, 30 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.862.7400
When: Mon. to Fri. – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sat. – 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
This article appears in Sep 1-30, 2009.