A bit off the beaten path, ~scape is a newish spot in the Central West End located at the end of Maryland near Kingshighway. Opened by Chicago-based Levy Restaurants in late September, it adjoins sister restaurant Crêpes: etc.
Though the name’s a bit awkward in print (not to mention tricky to Google), it is said to symbolize the various cityscapes one can enjoy: a Euro water scene in the front, a brick courtyard in the back. Inside, the space is definitely luxurious. Radiant copper accents – from the salt and pepper shakers to the servers’ ties – exude an earthy yet elegant warmth. Mirrored ceiling tiles, understated carpeting, comfy banquettes and contemporary jazz imbue sophistication. Add to that a stunning streetscape of the splashing fountain, folks strolling along the wide avenue and gorgeous residences across the street, and it feels like you’re in another place and time.
Such a setting calls for a memorable start. We chose oysters from the raw bar menu. West Coast Malpeque tasted seaweedy. I preferred the fresh-from-the-sea flavor of the Kumamoto. They were served beautifully on ice with Mignonette sauce (red-wine vinegar lent a fruity depth), mini bottles of Tabasco and lemon wedges, all sprinkled with red peppercorns.
The simplicity of the mushroom and chicken crêpes, which our server generously offered to bring from Crêpes: etc., was surprisingly good. The pulled, roasted chicken was delicious, the mushrooms fresh, the crêpe thin and light. On another visit, three good-sized berry crêpes were filled with raspberries and strawberries and topped with sweetened whipped cream.
Baked eggs were an interesting interpretation of a Caprese salad. Tomatoes, basil and ricotta were topped with over-easy organic eggs. The tangy saltiness of the ricotta matched the pungent basil. The colors were gorgeous – the bright yellow-orange of the yolk, vivid red of the tomato and vibrant green of the basil – but it needed an English muffin or hearty toast to swipe up every last bit of the yolk. On a second visit, we ordered poached organic eggs. The menu described these as served with a green salsa and corn tortillas. But when it arrived, it looked suspiciously like the baked eggs, set atop tomatoes and basil. Our server explained that it had been misplated and promptly brought out crispy, warm tortillas and what struck me more as guacamole than a green salsa. Again, I was racked with regret that there was nothing to properly soak up the egg yolk.
Chocolate pancakes were a real winner (and pancakes don’t usually do anything for me). Large, thick, fluffy, deep-brown pancakes were studded with chocolate chips (these are so good, they really need no extra enhancement from the maple syrup). Our server dubbed them “pancake perfection,” and he was right on.
As if we needed dessert … but we couldn’t pass up the bananas Foster crêpes. Vanilla-bean gelato oozed from the crêpes and melted with dark rum and sautéed bananas. These paired beautifully with the chocolate pâte, a firmer version of chocolate mousse made from deep, dark, rich Valrhona chocolate.
When the bill arrived, I was shocked by the $9 Mimosa (especially with the less-than-effervescent Champagne) and Bloody Mary (no matter the vodka, what Bloody Mary warrants this price?). And with just a standard two-olive garnish, I was perplexed.
Service was a little casual for the ambiance and there were times (like when we needed water or more coffee) that our server wasn’t to be seen. While exceedingly friendly, on one visit our server couldn’t explain the preparation of particular items like the Mignonette sauce or the chocolate pâte.
Overall, ~scape is a cozy spot good for warming up in the winter months ahead. And, it seems to be gaining in popularity. On our first visit, we were the only diners. Two weeks later, I was happy to see six tables of diners as well as a group seated outside enjoying an unseasonably warm November day.
This article appears in Dec 1-31, 2007.