When a restaurant is open for decades, it means something: People generally like the place. Diners keep coming back for that one great dish that’s always on the menu or because the same smiling face has stopped by your table every time you’ve eaten there since you were much, much younger.
Spiro’s on Natural Bridge is one such place. It was opened in 1977 by Spiro Karagiannis and is still serving the same Greek-American specialties today. But though the saganaki is the best I’ve had in town – and Spiro himself came out to our table to explain the history behind the pine resin notes in Greek wines – this local landmark is showing its age.
Perhaps it’s the location. After all, the upscale/fine-dining landscape north of Olive Boulevard leaves much to be desired. Sure, there are stalwarts and newer, food-driven restaurants in the area. But a non-chain, fine-dining experience tends to require driving south and/or west. Perhaps that lack of competition is the reason there seems to have been so little in the way of adapting or evolving at Spiro’s over the years. And maybe that’s the way Spiro likes it – if it’s lasted this long, why change it?
But if you take a look at the other Spiro’s in town, in South City and West County and St. Charles, there’s a night and day difference. These all-in-the-family spinoffs offer nicer décor, more extensive menus, more professional service. The original Spiro’s can barely hold a flame to the newer, snazzier Spiro’s, let alone St. Louis’ ever-expanding culinary prowess. What it can offer, however, is an old-school standby on the way to a show at the Touhill or if you happen to be in the area.
Order an Athenian Sunrise (think Tequila Sunrise with ouzo, Greece’s beloved anise-tinged aperitif); it’s bright, strong and refreshing. Beer-lovers should go for Greece’s answer to Budweiser, an ice-cold Aris lager.
Back to that saganaki: The hunk of Kasseri cheese, in its light coating, takes on a delicate, crisp crunch while sautéing on a hotplate beside the table. After a couple flips, then a dousing of brandy, the flame-kissed cheese is extinguished with a squeeze of lemon and rendered a gooey delight. It’s melty, crisp and has a subtle tartness.
The Greek salad, also prepared tableside, is fine: a tangy, sweet dressing that is nice and bright, olives, cucumber, crumbled feta and green peppers – all the usual suspects. Spanakopita, or spinach-stuffed phyllo, is flaky, tender and savory, while the tiropita, or cheese- and egg-stuffed phyllo, is cheesy, rich and fluffy.
A combination platter of dolmades, pastichio and moussaka, however, came out looking a little dreary. The dolmades, or stuffed grape leaves, lacked the zing of acid and spice that makes this dish desirable. The long, tubular noodles of the pastichio were overcooked, and the moussaka, a layered dish of eggplant and ground beef, was bland.
The braised lamb shank entrée was a little dried out and in need of salt. It came in a flavorful brown sauce and with a side of rice pilaf, which was mushy. A pork shish kebab, on the other hand, was grilled nicely, with bits of char and caramelization on the tender hunks of tenderloin. It was served with the same brown sauce as the lamb shank and with rice, peppers and onion.
The baklava was sweet, dripping with a honey-laden syrup, and crunchy, layered with walnuts and phyllo, the latter browned and nutty closer to the base of the dish and lighter and more flaky among the top layers.
The red wine is served chilled, and there is a selection of Greek and Mediterranean wines by the glass and bottle. Service is experienced, albeit in a small neighborhood place kind of way; if you’ve flambéed one saganaki, you flambéed a thousand.
Could this place use a facelift? Yes. Could it retool its menu and offerings, while keeping all the great attributes that make it a neighborhood favorite? Absolutely. But Spiro, the founder, is irreplaceable and will hopefully have a role in his own restaurant – greeting and meeting and telling stories from his past – for a long, long time.
BACK FOR SECONDS WHERE: Sprio’s, 8406 Natural Bridge Road, St. Louis, 314.382.8074
WHEN: Lunch: Mon. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. to Thu. – 4:30 to 10:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 4:30 to 11 p.m.
DON’T-MISS DISHES: Saganaki and baklava
VIBE: The place is a bit worn around the edges, but offers a casual, friendly neighborhood vibe.
ENTRÉE PRICES: $10 to $18
This article appears in Jul 1-31, 2011.
