St. Louis is in the heady grip of World Cup fever, but if you can unglue yourself from the tube for a spell, sneak a midafternoon, European-style repose on the patio at Bar Italia in the Central West End.
Bar Italia beverage director Brandon Kerne has a sound read on the fluctuating trends in the drinking world, particularly the latest backward glance at amaro and other herbal liqueurs. Returning to Bar Italia after directing the wine program at 33 Wine Shop & Bar – and, prior to that, working as a member of the beverage team at Elaia and Olio – Kerne has turned his sights to augmenting the puro Italiano choices on the restaurant’s already formidable wine, beer and cocktail menu, starting with the spritz.
A spritz is a classic northern Italian drink that combines amaro with prosecco. Assimilated by the Italians from occupying Hapsburg soldiers in the early 20th century, the historical spritz undercut the ABV of wine with soda water for a bracing tipple that wouldn’t send you three sheets to the wind. These days, most bars mix both amaro and prosecco for a boozier, but no less refreshing spritz.
Those just getting started on the botanical notes of aperitivos will find the new Emilia Spritz ($9) at Bar Italia a good introductory cocktail. Expect the forward-leaning flavors of strawberry and orange, and don’t forget to exhale contentedly after downing each and every sip of this bubbly, easygoing pick-me-up.
Once you’ve become a convert, come back in a month when Kerne rolls out “5 O’clock Spritz,” a happy hour featuring a build-your-own spritz menu. Unlike typical happy hours, “5 O’clock Spritz” drinks aren’t priced at a discount, but they do include complimentary plates of antipasti – bruschetta, olives and other small bites of Mediterranean fare.
This article appears in June 2014.