We aren’t quiet in our belief that the riesling grape makes the best white wines in the world. And more and more, others are embracing this position. However, there are still a large number of holdouts who believe not just that riesling isn’t great, but that it is downright bad. The most common interaction with nonbelievers goes like this:
“Can I interest you in a bottle/glass of riesling?”
“Oh no, I don’t like sweet wine.”
“I have several dry rieslings.”
“I’d rather not risk it.”
And then we sigh internally and shake our heads. Please believe us: not all riesling is sweet. If your bile boils at the faintest flicker of sugar, you can still experience the pleasures of riesling. But do you actually hate sweetness or fear it? Do you wish worms upon the Honeycrisp orchard? Does a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice fill you with such rage that you lash out and strike the nearest kitten?
Probably not.
Each fruit presents a balance of sugar and acidity. The sugar buffers the attack of the acid; the acid buoys the weight of the sugar. And this is the key to well-made riesling in which residual sugar is present. Yes, there is sweetness, but the grape’s capacity to develop tremendous acidity with phenolic flavor components results in wines in which sweetness rides a rail of elevated, electrified acid. These are wines that deliver waves of fruit and minerality cleanly and beautifully.
We truly believe there is a riesling for everyone, from the Muscadet-quaffing oyster slurper to the Montrachet-schnozzling truffle sniffer. Here are a few of our favorites:
2011 Zilliken, Saarburger, Kabinett, Riesling, Germany
Lime curd and powdered mineral on the nose follow through onto the palate, where they are wrapped around a core of tense acidity and moderate sweetness. Available at Starrs and by the glass at Little Country Gentleman 2011 Anam Cara Cellars Nicholas Estate Riesling, Chehalem Mountain, Ore.
A very dry riesling with explosive notes of melon and red apple, with hints of ginger. Available at Wine & Cheese on Ballas, Bottle Cellars, and by the glass at Five Bistro 2010 Fox Run Riesling 12, Lake Dana Vineyard, Finger Lakes, N.Y.
Creamy Meyer lemon up front and a broad, honeyed mid-palate with rich texture. This wine has residual sugar masterfully balanced by measured, precise acid on the finish. Available at Starrs and St. Louis Wine Market 2010 Albert Boxler, Riesling, Alsace, France
Stone fruit and herbs on the nose with a broad, dense palate and exceptional integration of the wine’s firm acid backbone. In the mouth, notes of nectarine and crushed apple, finishing with hints of black tea and stone fruit pit. Available at Robust Wine Bar Daniels Blake-Parseliti is wine director at Little Country Gentleman, and Lauren Blake-Parseliti is Five Bistro‘s beverage program coordinator.
-Photo courtesy of Jamie Goode
This article appears in August 2013.