{From left: Daniel Bouland, Corcelette Morgon; Chateau de Jacques, Moulin-À-Vent; Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorees, Fleurie}
It’s every wine drinker’s annual dilemma. Thanksgiving is fast-approaching, and you need a wine that will pair with light meat, dark meat, tart cranberries, creamy green bean casserole and sweet potatoes topped with sugary marshmallows – and you will need a lot of it. Enter Beaujolais. Cru Beaujolais, that is.
Cru Beaujolais is a tremendous, highly versatile value of a wine. It is low in alcohol and pairs great with all kinds of diverse foods; in short, it’s a superb Thanksgiving wine. But, non-Beaujolais drinkers may not be aware of an important distinction between Beaujolais Nouveau and Cru Beaujolais. Beaujolais Nouveau is a mass produced, dumpster fire of a wine – but dumpster fires have a plenty of aroma. Plus, there’s a chance they could be pretty. Think of Beaujolais Nouveau as the tasteless, Styrofoam-like tomatoes that plague markets nationwide.
Cru Beaujolais, on the other hand, tends to be the highest expression of Beaujolais terrior. Think of it as heirloom fruit. If the entirety of your Beaujolais experience consists of Beaujolais Nouveau, we understand your skepticism, but we urge you to try a Cru Beaujolais – they are an entirely different and infinitely more pleasurable experience.
There are 10 crus in Beaujolais; the word refers, in most instances, to the villages in the south of Burgundy where the wines are produced (though some refer to specific vineyards and one refers to a windmill). The crus offer different qualities and features, and some ought to be enjoyed earlier than others. However, it’s often difficult to find all the crus represented locally (and you may not want to run out and buy 10 bottles of wine right now), so we’ll stick to recommending those close at hand. In particular, wines from Morgon tend to be some of the richest and most velvety of the Cru Beaujolais. Moulin-À-Vent are some of the densest and most age-worthy, while Fleurie’s profile is more granitic and angular. Start tasting now, and you’ll have your ideal selection by Nov. 28.
Daniel Bouland Corcelette Morgon, 2011, Beaujolais, France A nose of bright berry with asphalt and iron undertones. Silky on the front and mid-palate, relaxing on the finish with complex red plum, cherry, leather, and precise, lengthy acid. Available at The Wine Merchant Chateau de Jacques, Moulin-À-Vent, 2010, Beaujolais, France Rich and succulent, this wine is dark, brooding and sensual, with stewed strawberry and hints of baking spice. Fine, understated, but ever-present acid and elegant tannin on the finish. Available at Five Bistro Jean-Paul Brun, Terres Dorees, Fleurie, 2011, Beaujolais, France Red raspberry, black pepper and crushed stones on the expressive nose. Yields more bright, minerally raspberry and spicy notes on the front and mid-palate, finishing with leather and earth. Available at Parker’s Table
This article appears in Guide to the Holidays 2013.