— Photo by Greg Rannells
On the morning that I had scheduled a visit to Bar Les Frères, restaurateur Zoe Pidgeon’s new Frenchy place at 7637 Wydown Blvd., in Clayton, my teenage son gave my skirt, tights and heels the once-over. “Where are you going?” he asked, knowing that I care more about a sharpened pencil than a pencil skirt.
“Zoe’s new place,” I answered, which meant nothing to him. I revised, explaining that the woman behind I Fratellini and Bobo Noodle House had such an eye for design that she could ready a porta-potty for auction at Sotheby’s and then sell it for six figures. I showed up at Bar Les Frères at the appointed hour. Would you know it? Robinson was wearing a little black dress. It was 2 p.m.
You cannot outdo Pidgeon, but you can join her. And you should, especially when you yearn for a touch of elegance – be it in the glass, on the plate or within the portrait gallery-esque space that characterizes Pigeon’s petite bar and restaurant.
If you’re going to begin the evening at Bar Les Frères, do it with bubbles. The drink list – a collaboration between Pidgeon, general manager Michael Weber and bar manager Tommy Gray – includes five Champagne cocktails. Best bets: a French 75 (pictured, left) served with an orange twist (“That’s what makes the drink,” said Gray decidedly.) or the aromatic, highly effervescent St. Germaine Cocktail (pictured, right) made with elderflower liqueur, Champagne, club soda and garnished with a lemon twist. Pair either drink with an appetizer that’s equally light-tasting and classy: potato blinis with caviar and creme fraiche.
Bar Les Frères is about vintage, so you won’t find newly invented cocktails here. Instead, you’ll find yourself relishing the revival of the Pimm’s Cup, Dubonnet Cocktail or Tres Jolie (pictured, left). The latter, a minimalist, but highly tasty drink – dry vermouth, Dubonnet (a French aperitif made from red wine and flavored with quinine and bitter herbs) and Cointreau – may just be my new favorite oldie. Bar Les Frères, despite the diminutive square footage, is a full-service restaurant, so pair that Tres Jolie with a plate just as full-flavored, like the house-made Toulouse sausage with potato pancake and red cabbage.
Cap off the night with coffee? Pssh. Caffeine isn’t available at Bar Les Frères, so ask for the digestif menu. You’ll find liqueurs and cream-based cocktails that more than qualify as dessert. The Dumante Alexander (pictured right), with crème de cacao, pistachio liqueur and chocolate shavings, is decadent. The Grasshopper is a liquid version of Andes mints, the chocolate candy of the holiday season.
Lady friends, Bar Les Frères is the best reason of late to don the black dress and grab a drink. Guys, your attire doesn’t matter. Jeans? Fine. Just hold open the door. And please, let her order first.
This article appears in November 2012.