The papa rellena at Brasas is one of the best dishes in St. Louis. Brasas is the newer concept from chef-owner Andrew Cisneros, whose first restaurant Jalea was named a Sauce Best New Restaurant after it opened in late 2021. His cooking centers on Peruvian flavors, and his sauces are some of the most dialed-in in town. (Also, don’t miss our recent podcast episode with him.)
The papa rellena starts with a masa dough made from riced potatoes, yuca, egg yolk and potato starch. It’s shaped around a beef estofado, a fragrant ground beef stew simmered with panca pepper, onion, garlic, vinegar, raisins, cumin and oregano. A soft-boiled egg and an olive get tucked inside before each one is formed into a small football. The finished croquette is topped with aji verde, aji amarillo, mayo and salsa criolla (onions, cilantro and lime). The aji verde, bright and herb-packed, is the standout sauce and a contender for the best in the city.
While you’re there, order a Pisco Sour to go with your meal. Brasas makes one of the best versions around, using high-quality Peruvian pisco distilled only once, plus fresh lime juice, simple syrup and egg white, shaken to a silky froth.
The menu of Peruvian chicken is also excellent, and the spot sits right across from the Pageant and Delmar Hall at 6138 Delmar Blvd., making it an ideal pre-show stop.
