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The Breadbasket at Juniper always puts us in a quandary. Do we start with the airy popover or the crumbly, buttery wedge of cornbread? In a battle of biscuits, do the delicate layers of the buttermilk variety deserve more attention than the sturdier angel biscuits? And let us not forget the thick slices of slightly sweet, brioche-like Sally Lunn. Only one thing is certain: When faced with such delicious dilemmas, we won’t leave a single crumb behind.

Juniper, 360 N. Boyle Ave., St. Louis, 314.329.7696, junipereats.com

This article appears in April 2016.

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